What to add to what I'm doing?

[flyinion]

I have a 350z in metallic silver (car is my avatar pic). I've been using the Pinnacle paintwork cleansing lotion and signature II wax but wondering what I should add to get the max "wet" or "gloss" look from the paint. Maybe I'm used to my darker cars in the past, and the signature makes the metallic pop but it seems like I could get better results. I saw there was a kit using the Klasse AIO and the Pinnacle together, would that be a good choice? What about the AIO and the Klasse glaze then the Pinnacle? I'd be using my porter cable where applicable.

In case it matters I had the Xzilon product applied at the dealer which is a 5 year no touch up "sealant". I since think it was a mistake because you're not supposed to do anything but wash and hand wax the car. Well, the paint feels like garbage, and obviously needs claying which I'm going to try for the first time ever this weekend. I don't know if it will take the Xzilon off but whatever I'd rather have the paint in good condition. The car is about 2 1/2 years old now.

[embolism]

despite what they tell you, no sealant is going to last 5 years. Maybe it would if you brought it to them every 6 months and they reapplied it, then dinged you for some other service...

just wash, clay and polish with M205 and it should all be gone. Might want to try some Iron X before the claying. Come to think of it, if you follow Richard's advice for "best products for a white car" it should work quite well for silver too. It's a recent thread...

[flyinion]

Thanks I'll check it out, I did see it but hadn't looked yet (plus it's for white :P). Yeah even if that Xzilon really does stay on for 5 years, as I said it's not keeping stuff from bonding that needs a clay to get rid of so at this point I'm over it and am just doing my own thing. Anyway I'll check out that other thread before asking anymore for the moment.

[flyinion]

Hmm interesting thread over there. I'm not sure I want to invest in a whole new set of products though. I'm more interested in if there's just maybe something I can use to get that little bit extra right now. I'm pretty happy overall with the Pinnacle Signature II but I'd heard a lot about layering it over a sealant like the Klasse stuff.

There's just so much info out there for a total amateur like me it's hard to tell if it's worth it on my paint type (metallic)/color. I suspect getting a truly prepared surface via claying first may help me a lot. Previously I've only used the paint cleansing lotion which helps but it still had the feeling that tells you it needs claying.

[embolism]

If you already have a paint cleanser then you don't really need the KAIO.

I would recommend Wolfgang Deep Gloss Paint Sealant but it sounds like you want to top it with your SSII so perhaps Menz Powerlock would be a good choice. For your free sample, maybe you could get some of the WGDGPS. The 2 ounces they give you should do your car 4 times...

[flyinion]

Thanks again. Yeah I wasn't sure if the paint cleaner was the same kind of thing or not. I guess it's hard to equate cleaner to polish but re-reading the description it seems like it is. I had bought the kit that had the Signature II, car wash product, paint cleanser, and the quick detailer in it. I'll see how it turns out this weekend after using the clay first. I know it's needed it for a while and maybe that will be all I needed to help get that little extra I'm looking for.

[BobbyG]

There's just so much info out there for a total amateur like me it's hard to tell if it's worth it on my paint type (metallic)/color. I suspect getting a truly prepared surface via claying first may help me a lot. Previously I've only used the paint cleansing lotion which helps but it still had the feeling that tells you it needs claying.

Before polishing and waxing lets take a look at the finish itself and see if it needs some basics.. Take a deep breath and don't become overwhelmed with all the products available out there.

Will you be doing this by hand or do you have a dual action polisher?

Detailing is as easy or complex as you make it, it's totally up to you..

Basic Steps in Order


Wash
Clay
Compound
Polish
Seal
Wax

Even with new cars pollution and particles become embedded in the clear coat and need to be removed; this process is called claying. It very easy to do and you can clay your entire car in about 30 minutes.

Mike Phillips has written allot on this subject

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/ask-expert-featuring-mike-phillips/23722-articles-mike-phillips.html

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/ask-expert-featuring-mike-phillips/27969-4-primary-benefits-using-detailing-clay-clay-paint.html

With a nice one step all-in-one product you can really make the finish glow. These products are formulated with mild abrasives and cleaners that will remove minor swirls and bring the finish to a beautiful shine.

Some examples of One Step Products


Meguiar's D151
Klasse All In One
Prime Strong

One step products are great but in my opinion won't make the finish pop as you indicate.

Although these are classified as one step adding a nice sealant like Klasse High Gloss Sealant Glaze

"Klasse High Gloss Sealant Glaze creates an elastic, non-chip, shrink-proof, heat and scratch resistant - protective seal against ultraviolet rays, salt water, acid rain and industrial pollutants for up to 12 months. Use this glaze on all paints with or without clear coats, glass, fiberglass, Plexiglass, plastics, metal surfaces, enamel, tiles, Formica and all non-porous surfaces. It is anti-static, non-abrasive and contains no ingredients harmful to paint, metal or plastic".

Some examples of sealants and waxes.

Sealants


Menzerna Power Lock Polymer Paint Sealant
Klasse High Gloss Sealant Glaze
Detailer’s Pro Series Poli-Coat Paint Sealant


Wax


Collinite 845
Pinnacle Liquid Souveran
Dodo Juice Supernatural

[flyinion]

Thanks Bobby. Yeah I'm 110% sure I need to clay the car. Running my hand over it my fingers just drag across the surface after a fresh wash/dry and even though it looks clean, it feels like it's not. I will definitely be using a porter cable DA polisher. I've had it for a few years & cars now and while I don't know all the good products and pads to use, I am definitely comfortable using the polisher itself.

Most of my experience with it was on my old 98 metallic dark green saturn using a red (light cutting I think) meguiar's pad with their paint cleaner when the paint had the fine scratches, and then a couple finishing pads with their showcar glaze and their hi-tech yellow wax

[BobbyG]

Well this is great new then!

Sometime it's difficult to gage someones experience level. I'm glad you have a Porter Cable polisher, this will make polishing not only go faster, it will also produce much more consistent results with superb quality.

You shouldn't have to spend a tone of money on new products.

Menzerna Super Finish PO106FA is one of the nicest polishes. This used with a white then gray pad will product stunning results.

Menzerna Nano Polish PO 106 FA, Menzerna Final Polish, Nano abrasives, finishing polish, professional polish (http://www.autogeek.net/menzerna-super-nano-polish.html)

One of the newest products on the scene is the Meguiar's Dual Action Microfiber Correction system seems to receive a 5 star rating. Two pads, two products, then seal and wax.

Meguiars DA Microfiber Correction System 5 Inch Starter Kit, paint correction kit, dual action polishing kit (http://www.autogeek.net/da-microfiber-starter-kit-5in.html)

If at all possible, use the polisher to apply the sealant and wax as well. The application of both products should be THIN. More often then not applying these by hand only results in way too much product used, longer drying times, and they're a real pain to buff off afterwards. Most sealants require 10 hours or so to cure properly so after applying it, part it inside over night then wax it the next day.

For some reason everyone supplies 6 1/2" pads with this style polisher and they're just too large to work efficiently. Go with the 5 1/2" flat pads and you'll think your polisher is on steroids!!

Lake Country 5 1/2 x 7/8 inch Beveled Edge Pads 6 Pack, foam pad kit, build a kit, buffing pads, curved edge pads (http://www.autogeek.net/lake-country-beveled-pad-kit.html)

The 350Z's are an amazing car and in my opinion their finest design. I love the lines and just about everything about this car. If I didn't have my Z06 Corvette, I'd definitely have a new 3 series Z........:props:

[flyinion]

Thanks, I think I'm going to stick with the pinnacle paint cleanser and signature II for now but go ahead and do the clay and see what effect that has (the car has never been clayed so that might be my whole problem). Yeah I picked up the 5 1/2 inch Lake CCS pads when I bought my pinnacle stuff just thinking "oh smaller car might work better" then just the other day I saw Mike's article about pad size on the porter cable and I'm glad I went with that size now.

[Shane731]

Yeah, claying your car will make a big difference. Check out these videos:

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gfxAesk4Po4]YouTube - Part 1 - How to use detailing clay[/video]

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=opfK408uIxM]YouTube - Part 2 - How to use detailing clay[/video]



Also, once you have the car clayed and polished, here's a couple options to consider:

DP Poli-Coat topped with DP Max Wax: http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/show-n-shine/25830-2000-silver-honda-accord-detailed-meguiar-s-dp.html

Liquid Natty Blue: http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/product-reviews/27731-late-review-liquid-natty-blue.html

[flyinion]

Thanks, yeah I already own the pinnacle signature II which it sounds like from what I've read is similar or maybe better than the natty's (at least on metallic & light colors) but the main reason I created this thread was wondering if there was some good synthetic that I might combine with it to layer. Oh and thanks for the video, I ran across it last night looking through somewhere and yeah I think I've watched about every claying video I can find to make sure I do it right lol.

[embolism]

I actually helped my buddy do his silver carrera 2 convertible this afternoon and I am now a believer in Iron X and clay.

Washed with gold class and dawn then blow dried it and sprayed the iron x. Worst areas were the back, around the handles, badges, and behind the wheel wells -- tonnes of purple runoff! Really felt the difference with the clay too. Used some of the really dirty clay on the rims and it took off what looked and felt like black marker on the wheels. This stuff was completely flat and didn't budge with apc and scrubbing but clay got it off. Once I saw that, I actually used it on my rims to get rid of 5 noticeable marks that I thought were there for good (no amount of scrubbing or wheel cleaners ever made a dent in the year that I've owned the car).

Back to the porsche, after we buffed it with KAIO and a white pad, then added WGDGPS, I could actually tell where my buddy missed areas with the clay. No baggie test or anything, just rubbing my bare hand across the paint (could have done that all day on those beautiful curves). Had to go over those spots until they were glassy smooth again, then reapplied the sealant. Hopefully, I didn't mess up b/c you're not supposed to get the WG wet for 12 hours and I did get a little runoff from the ONR lube...

one thing that I noticed with the KAIO application was my white pad had a blackish tinge to it afterwards. Maybe that was a result of even more crap coming out of the paint due to the chemical cleaners?

I guess the moral of the story is that you can learn alot from doing cars that are not really that well maintained. The first time I clayed my car I was like meh, not that much of a difference. The difference with the porsche was like night and day though...

[flyinion]

Yeah I'm going to have to check out the Iron X stuff. No idea if I'd actually benefit but it looked like one of those things that you don't know until you use it. Good to know clay works on wheels. I may have to sacrifice a bar after I use it on the car to hit my wheels as I seem to remember having some black dots on them that won't come off (only see them up close). Of course, I suppose I could just find a good tire cleaner and try that first lol. Usually I just take a scrub brush to the tires and wheels at the end of the wash using leftover washing solution (pinnacle bodywork shampoo & water).

[embolism]

Clay works on any hard surface (rims, plastic, glass, etc). Once you use it on wheels though, I wouldn't go back to your paint with it.

Most ppl here do their wheels first b/c when they do the barrels, the brush kinda makes a mess, often on the car panels. If you've washed the panels already, then sometimes you get them dirty again.

I think I need a thinner wheel brush b/c my rotors are really big and I keep hitting them and spraying apc all over my arm... wonder if the wheel woolies are thinner than the daytona