New and Terrified

[Market Top]

Just joined and I’m terrified!! :buffing: Sad to say but I’m a “wash and dry” guy and the only detailing "experience" I have is speed shining. Sad but true. But for some reason I am now on a mission to learn to detail my cars. I have purchased all the toys (flex orbital being my main cause of panic at the moment) and have read TONS of stuff on line – even for a new guy it was easy to find those who knew what they were doing. The video’s Autogeek (Mike) have done are fantastic. Its one thing to read but far different to see in done “live”. So a big thank you to Autogeek for all the information. For now, all the “stuff” remains in boxes until I get the garage floor painted – then the fun begins. My plan is to start with my wife’s DD (silver BMW X3) then move to the Basalt Black 911 then finally the Blue Murcielago. I'm terrifed of screwing up the paint on the latter two. One question for the pro’s here – is there anything special about the paint on any of these cars I should be aware of before I begin – like softness? I’ll attach a photo (not the best resolution) to show the colors.

Thanks – and I look forward to reading an learning as I go.
Chris

[Mike Phillips]

Hi Chris,

Welcome to Autogeek Online! :welcome:




I'm terrified of screwing up the paint on the latter two.


Get practice on the wife's car... then tackle the other two... :D





One question for the pro’s here – is there anything special about the paint on any of these cars I should be aware of before I begin – like softness? I’ll attach a photo (not the best resolution) to show the colors.




Start by doing some testing, it is by testing you can find out how hard or soft the paint is but this includes doing some real basics, like starting with the least aggressive product to get the job done.

I also like to use a tape-line on a horizontal surface as this will make it real easy to judge the difference your pad, product and technique are making or not making.

Once you dial in a system that works to one area you can then duplicate that process over the rest of the car.


See what I posted to this thread...

How to deal with italian paint ? ( Ferrari) (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/auto-detailing-university/33365-how-deal-italian-paint-ferrari.html)


:)

[CEE DOG]

Welcome to AG! The first and most important thing is don't be afraid! Relax and use common sense and logic and you will be in good shape. From there practice makes perfect and you can use the online resource to help you troubleshoot during your learning curve.

[mdb917]

Welcome Chris!

Fear is a natural reaction to working with a power buffer for the first few times. Keep practicing and applying all the things you've learned thru your reading and as CEEDOG says use common sense.

The simplest lesson and most important one I learned was to start at the least aggressive no matter what. You can always move up to the next aggressive level but it's pretty hard to move back down the scale if/when damage occurs.

[Market Top]

Thanks for the quick responses guys.
This was my plan of attack:
Menzerna Super Intensive Polish and an Orange CCS pad
Menzerna 106FA Super Finish and a White CCS pad

However, considering Mikes comments should I start with the Super Finish and white pad rather than the more abrasive 106F/orange? Do a test and see if I need the more aggressive products>
Neither car has much in the way of swirls. The 911 is brand new and, surprisingly, has few dealer swirls but is dull – guessing a nice claying and polish will do wonders. The Murcie is a 2003 and has been professionally done (great job by the way). The BMW…well, did I mention it’s the wifes car…?

[BobbyG]

:welcome: To Autogeek Online Chris!

Some very nice rides you have there and I don't blame you for being just a bit nervous.

A tip I throw out to everyone is start with a less aggressive product, test, and let these results determine the direction.

I agree with Mikes suggestion regarding the initial use of Menzerna Super Finish PO106FA and a White CCS pad. This polish has a much less aggressive cut rating that the Menzerna Super intensive Polish PO83Q.

You're trying to accomplish two things here; getting the feel of detailing and your new machine and also how the combination about impacts the finish. Slowly is how you should approach this. As you begin to get the feel and understand how this works you should take your time.

These are in order and are considered the basic steps when detailing. They are by no means gospel and variations to this are quite common.


Wash
Clay
Compound
Polish
Sealant
Wax

My guess is the finishes an either of the two cars need much at all thus my suggesting you begin with Menzerna Super Finish PO106FA and a white pad.

Menzerna products are my favorite for paint correction!! :props:

[embolism]

what I did was just practice with the machine using a black pad and a glaze. Didn't use wax since it would all be coming off soon anyways once I got comfortable enough to polish. I found it only took about 10 minutes to get over the power of the machine, the loudness, and to try out different pressures. You definitely want to mark your backing plate so you can see that it is constantly spinning. Have fun!

[Flash Gordon]

Whatever you've done in life to accomplish the cars you have, this stuff will be a cake walk

The main thing is its just very time consuming and monotonus. Many use this time as some sort of therapy . I view it as some type of torture. I musta been a very bad boy in my last life

Good luck and God bless,

Flash :buffing:

[Market Top]

I agree with Mikes suggestion regarding the initial use of Menzerna Super Finish PO106FA and a White CCS pad. This polish has a much less aggressive cut rating that the Menzerna Super intensive Polish PO83Q.

You're trying to accomplish two things here; getting the feel of detailing and your new machine and also how the combination about impacts the finish. Slowly is how you should approach this. As you begin to get the feel and understand how this works you should take your time.

Thanks! Great advice. I will do what you guys suggest. Makes sense. A few of the articles I read made it sound like the PO106FA and White pad would not be aggressive enough even for very minor swirl marks. But hearing what you have to say - I'd rather do less at first then get more aggressive. I'll snap a few pics pre/post and keep you up to speed on the progress.

[gewb]

However, considering Mikes comments should I start with the Super Finish and white pad rather than the more abrasive 106F/orange? Do a test and see if I need the more aggressive products?

I would start with Super Intensive Polish on a white pad first. Keep the pressure moderate, work smaller sections at a time, work the polish until it breaks down and flashes (it is obvious). Check your work...use the orange only if the white barely made a scratch (a little detailing humor - not literal).

Regards,
GEWB

[ScubaCougr]

Just joined and I’m terrified!! I’m a “wash and dry” guy and the only detailing "experience" I have is speed shining.. I'm terrifed of screwing up

Welcome, Chris,

I doubt you'll do any harm, in fact you'll probably fall in love with what a DA and something more substantial than Turtle Wax and Armor-all will do.

But if you're concerned, go to the nearest salvage yard and buy a hood or car door for practice. Working on a couple cars that I literally could not screw up any worse has been great practice for me.

[Mike Phillips]

Thanks for the quick responses guys.
This was my plan of attack:

Menzerna Super Intensive Polish and an Orange CCS pad
Menzerna 106FA Super Finish and a White CCS pad

However, considering Mikes comments should I start with the Super Finish and white pad rather than the more abrasive 106F/orange?




SIP is a very capable swirl mark remover, it's not as aggressive as most compounds and will finish down very nicely.

The Flex 3401 offers a lot of safe power, it certainly wouldn't hurt to test SIP with a foam polishing pad like the White CCS.

If the combination of SIP and white foam polishing pad isn't working as effectively or fast enough on the paint you're testing, then you'll find out ASAP with a simple test and then simply test again and in this scenario, use the same chemical and substitute a more aggressive pad.

Again, a quick test doing 5-8 Section Passes should let you know visually if you're getting the job done to your expectations.


I always recommend using a Tape-Line when doing your testing as it will make it very easy for your eyes to detect changes, which usually mean improvements in the test area and gauge how effectively your pads, products, tool and techniques are working on this particular paint system.


http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/796/medium/TapeLine02.jpg



I test every paint system, (that's another way of saying vehicle because the paint or the "paint system" is on the vehicle, you're not working on the vehicle, per SE, but the paint system), if I've never worked on it before.

It's just a good "Best Practice"


:)

[Mike Phillips]

After you do your Test Spot, if the results look good but you want to make sure the results you're seeing are the true results you're producing, then you'll want to chemically strip the paint to inspect it. This will remove any polishing oils and/or fillers or any other ingredients left on the surface after wiping the residue off and reveal the true condition.

This can be kind of tricky because you don't want to induce any marring or towel scratches in the process.

Here's an article I wrote on how to do this safely...

How to Mix IPA for Inspecting Correction Results (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/hot-topics-frequently-asked-questions/31183-how-mix-ipa-inspecting-correction-results.html)

If you can prove to yourself that you're effectively removing the below surface defects then as long as all the panels have the exact same paint, if you then duplicate the process over the rest of the panels it's safe to assume you're getting the same results and then you can skip the chemically stripping process as you've already proven to yourself that what you're doing is working. If you want to double check your results on each panel then chemically strip each panel.


Also...

Learn to walk before you run...
For anyone that's new to machine polishing, I recommend just tackling a section of the car your first time, for example the hood or the front clip, that would be the hood and front fenders.

Putting just a section of the car through a multiple-step process will take you a while, especially if you new to machine polishing and moving carefully, and by only tackling a section you won't burn out, you'll see the results from your work the within hours, not at the end of the day and you'll still be able to enjoy the rest of your day off with the better half.

:)

[Mike Phillips]

Check these out as they will inspire you and give you confidence...


Success Stories

Wolfgang Twins (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/wolfgang-car-care/34641-wolfgang-twins.html)

Lessons I learned from a Black 2009 BMW 550i (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/show-n-shine/33599-lessons-i-learned-black-2009-bmw-550i.html)

How To Remove Horrible Rotary Buffer Swirl Marks out of a 350Z using the Wolfgang Twins (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/auto-detailing-101/21413-horrible-swirl-marks.html)

Proof You Can Do It! - Joe The Detailer - Black Porsche Turned into Black Pearl! (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/show-n-shine/25226-proof-you-can-do-joe-detailer-black-porsche-turned-into-black-pearl.html)


:buffing:

[Dr Oldz]

Welcome, Chris! First off something that no one else mentioned is to HAVE FUN detailing. Secondly have fun. And last ummmm have fun! Detailing can be very rewarding when you see the final results. Sounds like you have a very nice collection thus far. Best of luck.