Need help with buffing please!

[AlexC]

Well just put everything in my new order to use today. I really like Diablo Wheel Gel but it didn't through the real tough brake build up. Black Onyx is awesome, love the smell! haha. 1Z Cockpit is amazing, brought my 12 year old interior back to life. Megs APC+ took care of everything that didnt have a specific product for it, LOVE IT. Foamaster makes washing the car quite fun and a breeze, glad I got it.

But right now, I'm in the middle of putting my GG DA and M105/205 to use, and I'm having a little trouble. When I'm done with a section, buffing the residue off is much harder that i think it should be. Not sure exactly what I'm doing wrong. Not enough product? Going to fast? Too big of an area?

So far, I'm done with the hood. I'd have a few pics up for you but photobucket isnt working for me :/

[Kristopher1129]

You may be working the product a little to much. I find that with 105 especially, if you work it too long it binds to the paint surface and is tough to rub off. Try spraying a spritz of ONR, spray wax, or even water to loosen it up.

At the same time, sometimes I'll work 105 down to the point where it chalks away...then rubbing it off is much easier. There's a learning curve to this 105/205 combo. You'll get it eventually. :dblthumb2:

[Flash Gordon]

But right now, I'm in the middle of putting my GG DA and M105/205 to use, and I'm having a little trouble. When I'm done with a section, buffing the residue off is much harder that i think it should be. Not sure exactly what I'm doing wrong. Not enough product? Going to fast? Too big of an area?

So far, I'm done with the hood. I'd have a few pics up for you but photobucket isnt working for me :/

When you say, "its much harder then it should be" could you explain a little bit more on this?

I will do my very best at answering your question :)

[AlexC]

Well, only a very little bit comes off even after wiping it with a considerable amount of pressure. To get the rest off, I end up having to use a QD.

[tuscarora dave]

Are you having trouble with the 105 or the 205 or both?

[AlexC]

I haven't even gotten to the 205 yet haha

[Midnight1700]

When using 105, use only 3 pea sized drops on the pad. Work the compound until it flashes (basically turns clear, with possibly some light hazing). If your using too much compound, it may be the problem. Some detailers put an "X" across the pad, IMO, I find this to be too much in most cases.

[AlexC]

The X is just what I had been doing, thanks for the advice Midnight! I'm already finished but I will make sure to do it that way next time :)

[Mike Phillips]

I use to show X Pattern or Circle Pattern to start a dry pad but now days I show priming a dry pad and then using either drops of product, (pea sized or larger), some manner of getting product onto the face of the pad...

The key is to use an ample amount of product, not too much, not too little and there is no pat answer because everyone's buffing environment is different, you need to do some practice sections to find out what's working best.





Use an "ample" amount of product
When I say use an ample amount of product this means don’t use too much product and don’t use to little product.

From The Free Dictionary.com

am·ple
adjective

1. Of large or great size, amount, extent, or capacity: an ample living room.

2.
a. Large in degree, kind, or quantity: an ample reward.
b. More than enough: ample evidence.

3. Fully sufficient to meet a need or purpose: had ample food for the party.


Out of the above definitions, I'm using the 3rd definition.

Using too much product
If you use too much you can hyper-lubricate the surface and this will make it more difficult for the abrasives to abrade the surface as they’ll tend to want to glide or slip over the surface instead of bite into the surface.

Using too little product
If you use too little product there won’t be enough lubrication to enable the buffing pad to rotate and thus engage the abrasives against the surface so they can bite into and remove small particles of paint.


You want an AMPLE amount of product when first starting out because you pad is dry and some of the product is going to seep into the pad leaving less on the surface to LUBRICATE and ABRADE the paint.






Don't buff to a dry buff so this mean there should be enough product to insure a wet film from beginning to end of the buffing cycle, that is your section passes.

People have been complaining about the short buffing cycle of M105 since it was introduced but to date Meguiar's is happy with the buffing cycle, at least for the market the product is intended for, that is the body shop market.

Anytime a product becomes hard to work with one thing you can do is to shrink the size of your work area down, I explain how this helps in this article.


Tips for working in warm/hot weather or direct sunlight (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/tips-techniques-how-articles-interacting-discussion-forums/26961-tips-working-warm-hot-weather-direct-sunlight.html)



Why to only work small sections at at time
The larger the area you work the more the product is going to dry up on you because while you're working one portion of the area, the portions not being worked will tend to start drying via evaporation. By shrinking your work area down, shrinking your pad size down and using ample product you'll better be able to maintain a wet buffing cycle over a smaller area.

[Mike Phillips]

Give this a read-through...

How much product do I use with my DA Polisher? (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/tricks-tips-techniques/26962-how-much-product-do-i-use-my-da-polisher.html)


:)