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Maldini
04-20-2011, 11:03 AM
I just factory ordered a black GMC Terrain, and had a question surrounding an article I read through on this forum that talks about letting paint cure for 30 days. My question is, does this apply to factory fresh paint? Maybe I'm wrong, but I'm assuming ill receive the vehicle within 30 days of it being painted, and I wanted to know how long I have to wait before I can clay and seal.


Any advice would be appreciated. Thank you.

Mike Phillips
04-20-2011, 11:06 AM
My question is, does this apply to factory fresh paint?





No. The paint is baked on at the factory at high temperatures BEFORE the wiring, fabric, upholstery, headliners, etc. are installed.

By the time the car is assembled, plus the fact that the factory paint is baked on at high temps, when it finally spits out of the assembly line and is ready to be shipped, (even more time), the paint is completely cured, hardened and ready to wax, seal or coat.


:D

Munich77
04-20-2011, 11:08 AM
From what I remember reading, most modern paints are baked on at the factory and can therefore be waxed right away. Since you are getting the car factory fresh, don't have the dealer do any prep to avoid having the Dealer-induced swirl option. Consider prepping the car and applying one of the new coatings.

Mike Phillips
04-20-2011, 11:13 AM
Here are the articles related to this topic from my article list...


Don't wax your car for at least 30 days! (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/hot-topics-frequently-asked-questions/26967-don-t-wax-your-car-least-30-days.html)

Fresh Paint - But you can touch it... (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/off-topic/28717-fresh-paint-but-you-can-touch.html)

Body Shop Safe Glaze on Fresh Paint - #7 Show Car Glaze (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/hot-topics-frequently-asked-questions/28659-body-shop-safe-glaze-fresh-paint-7-show-car-glaze.html)

The practical differences between single stage paints and a clear coat paints (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/hot-topics-frequently-asked-questions/21924-practical-differences-between-single-stage-paints-clear-coat-paints.html)


Not sure how you're going to do your work but I would first do the

The Baggie Test - How to inspect for above surface bonded contaminants (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/how-articles/27967-baggie-test-how-inspect-above-surface-bonded-contaminants.html)


To apply wax my personal preference is by machine as you remove any individual pressure points when using the typical wax applicator pad.


This article shows what I mean by pressure points..

How to Test for Single Stage or Clear Coat Paint (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/tricks-tips-techniques/34829-how-test-single-stage-clear-coat-paint.html)



Confirmed, we're working on a single stage paint... also note the heavier accumulation were my fingers pressed down with the most pressure... this is because you can exert more pressure to the small area of your finger tips than you can with your entire hand, you can use this to work for you or cause problems depending upon what you're trying to do...
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1084/56StarCheif042.jpg






You get the same kind of pressure points when applying anything by hand whether or not it's a single stage paint or a clear coat.

These applicator pads here are a lot thicker and thus spread the pressure of your fingers out a lot better... if you're working by hand, maybe look at these,

Lake country ccs applicators, wax applicator, sealant applicator (http://www.autogeek.net/red-ccs-applicators.html)

I really like the above applicator pads if I have to work by hand...

:)

Maldini
04-20-2011, 11:30 AM
Great, thanks so much for the quick replies Mike/Munich. I do far more reading on this forum than I do posting, and its mainly because you provide so much information in your detailed posts, Mike.

Everything will be done by machine, after of course I inspect the paint for surface contaminants. I was planning on a clay if needed, and then just a sealant so if you have a favourite for black, please let me know!

Thanks again.

silverfox
04-20-2011, 12:59 PM
I detailed out my new Camaro 2 weeks after it came off the assembly line...and the best thing I ever did was tell the dealer to NOT touch the paint...period...don't wash it, wipe it, polish it, etc. Needless to say the car was filthy when I took it home...but that was the one time I was happy to have a dirty car.

Mike Phillips
04-20-2011, 01:24 PM
I detailed out my new Camaro 2 weeks after it came off the assembly line...and the best thing I ever did was tell the dealer to NOT touch the paint...period...don't wash it, wipe it, polish it, etc. Needless to say the car was filthy when I took it home...but that was the one time I was happy to have a dirty car.

GREAT ADVICE!

Thanks for posting the above John...

The last thing anyone wants when buying a new vehicle is DISO

DISO = The Dealership Installed Swirl Option (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/hot-topics-frequently-asked-questions/28401-diso-dealership-installed-swirl-option.html)

I don't think I've ever seen a car so swirled out by the mis-use of a rotary buffer...
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/742/Horrendous005.jpg

:xyxthumbs:

HeavyMetal
04-20-2011, 01:34 PM
:iagree:

When we bought my wife's Lexus last Dec, I told the dealer not to touch it: Don't wash it, don't wax it, don't even look at it. They looked at me like I had a third eye, but they didn't touch it. I even asked them not to take off the plastic shipping film but they refused that one.

Maldini
04-20-2011, 01:38 PM
Good advice, thats for sure.