maluminas
04-19-2011, 12:21 PM
Hi all!
I recently ordered my starter kit of detailing stuff and can't wait to receive it and get started! I thought i should post my plan for expert review and suggestions.
History: i have no experience beyond a simple wash and dry, so this is an ambitious undertaking, but with your great advice i'm sure i can make it. I'll be doing my own car, it's basically new, only one year old, and just came out of its first canadian winter. The red metallic paint has lots of swirls from road abrasives and snow brushing, and some light water spot etchings (on the glass too). I also have some kind of hard resin drops scattered around the paint and glass. Overall the paint is not bad, but it's not super shiny. Oh and it's a Kia Forte.
You: ಠ_ಠ
Don't look at me like that! It's a great car! It's my precious and i want to make it shiny.
Note: Unless otherwise specified, assume i'm using microfiber.
Note to self: Don't forget the "before" pictures.
Interior: So i thought i should start by the interior. It's in generally excellent condition, just a bit dusty. Except for the driver's carpet... I have muddy crusts and white salt crystals growing out of the carpet like some alien microbe... So:
Front Carpets:
-Vacuum
-Spray cleaner on
-Sprinkle with water
-Brush gently
-Vacuum the dirty water out
-Repeat until water comes out clear
-Should i apply 303 fabric guard?
-Buy better rubber mats, ones that dont leak...
Back Carpets:
-Hardly used, just vaccum
Seat fabrics:
-Excellent condition, vacuum
-Apply 303 fabric guard
Vinyl:
-Wipe dust off the surfaces and out of all the tiny crevices
-Use 303 vinyl cleaner
-Apply 303 vinyl protector
Glass:
-Clean with DP glass cleaner (tinted windows)
-Inspect for streaks
-Clean again if needed
-Final wipe with dry dedicated MF
Exterior: The fun part. I described the condition above. I decided to go with the Wolfgang system, as i am a systems guy, like Mike. Finding a shady spot might be hard but i'll figure something out. I got the Porter Cable DA polisher with 3.5" and 5" backing plates and one 6-pack of pads for each size (4" and 5.5"), each set contains at least one orange, one white and one grey Lake Country CCS pads.
Entire car:
-Wash with WG autobathe, 2 bucket setup (grit guard) with lambswool mitt for the paint and glass and a dedicated brush for wheels and wells.
-Blot dry with WW MF (washing and drying done in sections)
-Clay the paint and glass with WG clay and lube
-If i locate resin drops during claying, i will remove them with a plastic razor blade. Buff lube off.
-Apply IronX, let dwell and rinse off
-Apply again on the worst section and see if it still needs it, if yes apply to whole car again.
-Should i wash again before proceeding to paint correction?
Paint:
-Do a test spot
-Tape off 2'x2' test spot. Position it so i dont have to do it again if the test is successful.
Swirl Remover 3.0
-Apply WG Swirl Remover 3.0 with primed orange pad, do section passes until it breaks down.
-Wipe off and inspect, if finish is even and swirl free, proceed to polishing glaze.
Polishing Glaze 3.0
-Apply WG Polishing Glaze 3.0 with primed white pad, do section passes until it breaks down.
-Wipe off and inspect, if finish is even, swirl free and glossy proceed to sealant.
Deep Gloss Paint Sealant 3.0
-Apply WG Deep Gloss Paint Sealant 3.0 with a primed grey pad, work in with a couple section passes.
-Let haze for 45 minutes
-Wipe off and inspect, if finish is smooth, glossy and swirl free the test is successful!!! Proceed with Swirl Remover on whole car.
Whole car
-Tape off trim, glass, lights and crevices.
-Use Swirl Remover on whole paint in sections as in the test. Clean the pad with terry cloth between sections.
-Inspect, if satisfactory proceed to Polishing.
-Use Polishing Glaze on whole paint in sections as in the test.
-Inspect, proceed to sealant.
-Apply Deep Gloss Paint Sealant on whole car as in the test. Start the clock after the first section.
-Let haze for 45 minutes.
-Buff off and inspect. If satisfactory, victory! The paint is now perfect!
-Remove tape, it looks weird if you leave it on :D
Lights:
-Lights are in excellent condition, but i'll apply WG Plastik Sealant as a preventive measure.
Trim:
-Tape around the trims, they are very few on this car and in good contition.
-Apply Ultima Trim and Tire Guard as per instructions.
-Remove tape
Glass:
-Tape around glass areas (will tape stick to freshly UTTG'd trim?)
-Use DP High Performance Glass Restorer in sections as per instructions (will it remove residual Aquapel?)
-Wipe off, inspect.
-Clean with Aquapel glass cleaner, several times if needed...
-Apply Aquapel to all glass areas as per instructions.
-Remove tape.
Wheels and tires:
-Wheels should still be clean, but wipe just to be sure.
-Apply DP wheel glaze to visible surfaces as per instructions.
-Apply UTTG to tire sidewalls with dedicated foam applicator.
-Wheel wells are practically invisible, i won't dress them.
Finishing touches:
-Open all doors and check the jambs to make sure they also got cleaned.
-Clean any residual products in crevices.
-Final buff with clean MF.
-Take "After" pictures.
-Pat myself on the back.
-Ingore the neighbors' concerned looks.
Whew thats a lot of work! But im sure ill enjoy it. Please tell me if you find any obvious mistakes or oversights, and share your expert tips :props:
Oh, i don't want to detail the engine for now, it scares me a little... Though it sure could use it. Tips for the engine are welcome too. It's basically an APC clean? Can UTTG be applied to plastic parts inside the engine compartment?
Thanks in advance everyone!
I recently ordered my starter kit of detailing stuff and can't wait to receive it and get started! I thought i should post my plan for expert review and suggestions.
History: i have no experience beyond a simple wash and dry, so this is an ambitious undertaking, but with your great advice i'm sure i can make it. I'll be doing my own car, it's basically new, only one year old, and just came out of its first canadian winter. The red metallic paint has lots of swirls from road abrasives and snow brushing, and some light water spot etchings (on the glass too). I also have some kind of hard resin drops scattered around the paint and glass. Overall the paint is not bad, but it's not super shiny. Oh and it's a Kia Forte.
You: ಠ_ಠ
Don't look at me like that! It's a great car! It's my precious and i want to make it shiny.
Note: Unless otherwise specified, assume i'm using microfiber.
Note to self: Don't forget the "before" pictures.
Interior: So i thought i should start by the interior. It's in generally excellent condition, just a bit dusty. Except for the driver's carpet... I have muddy crusts and white salt crystals growing out of the carpet like some alien microbe... So:
Front Carpets:
-Vacuum
-Spray cleaner on
-Sprinkle with water
-Brush gently
-Vacuum the dirty water out
-Repeat until water comes out clear
-Should i apply 303 fabric guard?
-Buy better rubber mats, ones that dont leak...
Back Carpets:
-Hardly used, just vaccum
Seat fabrics:
-Excellent condition, vacuum
-Apply 303 fabric guard
Vinyl:
-Wipe dust off the surfaces and out of all the tiny crevices
-Use 303 vinyl cleaner
-Apply 303 vinyl protector
Glass:
-Clean with DP glass cleaner (tinted windows)
-Inspect for streaks
-Clean again if needed
-Final wipe with dry dedicated MF
Exterior: The fun part. I described the condition above. I decided to go with the Wolfgang system, as i am a systems guy, like Mike. Finding a shady spot might be hard but i'll figure something out. I got the Porter Cable DA polisher with 3.5" and 5" backing plates and one 6-pack of pads for each size (4" and 5.5"), each set contains at least one orange, one white and one grey Lake Country CCS pads.
Entire car:
-Wash with WG autobathe, 2 bucket setup (grit guard) with lambswool mitt for the paint and glass and a dedicated brush for wheels and wells.
-Blot dry with WW MF (washing and drying done in sections)
-Clay the paint and glass with WG clay and lube
-If i locate resin drops during claying, i will remove them with a plastic razor blade. Buff lube off.
-Apply IronX, let dwell and rinse off
-Apply again on the worst section and see if it still needs it, if yes apply to whole car again.
-Should i wash again before proceeding to paint correction?
Paint:
-Do a test spot
-Tape off 2'x2' test spot. Position it so i dont have to do it again if the test is successful.
Swirl Remover 3.0
-Apply WG Swirl Remover 3.0 with primed orange pad, do section passes until it breaks down.
-Wipe off and inspect, if finish is even and swirl free, proceed to polishing glaze.
Polishing Glaze 3.0
-Apply WG Polishing Glaze 3.0 with primed white pad, do section passes until it breaks down.
-Wipe off and inspect, if finish is even, swirl free and glossy proceed to sealant.
Deep Gloss Paint Sealant 3.0
-Apply WG Deep Gloss Paint Sealant 3.0 with a primed grey pad, work in with a couple section passes.
-Let haze for 45 minutes
-Wipe off and inspect, if finish is smooth, glossy and swirl free the test is successful!!! Proceed with Swirl Remover on whole car.
Whole car
-Tape off trim, glass, lights and crevices.
-Use Swirl Remover on whole paint in sections as in the test. Clean the pad with terry cloth between sections.
-Inspect, if satisfactory proceed to Polishing.
-Use Polishing Glaze on whole paint in sections as in the test.
-Inspect, proceed to sealant.
-Apply Deep Gloss Paint Sealant on whole car as in the test. Start the clock after the first section.
-Let haze for 45 minutes.
-Buff off and inspect. If satisfactory, victory! The paint is now perfect!
-Remove tape, it looks weird if you leave it on :D
Lights:
-Lights are in excellent condition, but i'll apply WG Plastik Sealant as a preventive measure.
Trim:
-Tape around the trims, they are very few on this car and in good contition.
-Apply Ultima Trim and Tire Guard as per instructions.
-Remove tape
Glass:
-Tape around glass areas (will tape stick to freshly UTTG'd trim?)
-Use DP High Performance Glass Restorer in sections as per instructions (will it remove residual Aquapel?)
-Wipe off, inspect.
-Clean with Aquapel glass cleaner, several times if needed...
-Apply Aquapel to all glass areas as per instructions.
-Remove tape.
Wheels and tires:
-Wheels should still be clean, but wipe just to be sure.
-Apply DP wheel glaze to visible surfaces as per instructions.
-Apply UTTG to tire sidewalls with dedicated foam applicator.
-Wheel wells are practically invisible, i won't dress them.
Finishing touches:
-Open all doors and check the jambs to make sure they also got cleaned.
-Clean any residual products in crevices.
-Final buff with clean MF.
-Take "After" pictures.
-Pat myself on the back.
-Ingore the neighbors' concerned looks.
Whew thats a lot of work! But im sure ill enjoy it. Please tell me if you find any obvious mistakes or oversights, and share your expert tips :props:
Oh, i don't want to detail the engine for now, it scares me a little... Though it sure could use it. Tips for the engine are welcome too. It's basically an APC clean? Can UTTG be applied to plastic parts inside the engine compartment?
Thanks in advance everyone!