Preparing for swirl correction?

[Matt575]

I have a Griot's Garage 6" and Meguairs DA MF system arriving on Friday. I want to work on that this weekend but need to know what kind of prep I need to do to the car before I get started. I know it needs to be washed and dried. I just clayed it a few weeks back. What other things do I need to consider. Last time I tried something without checking on it like I am here, I sprayed the engine compartment and ruined my alternator :eek: That was a very expensive mistake! Do I need to cover anything? Protect stuff (like washer fluid shooter outers on hood)? Do I tape things like when you paint a room in your house? I know there's lots I don't know or am not thinking of. Please HELP! :dunno:

[ShaunD]

Did you look into an alternator rebuild kit? I know they have them for standard alts I don't know if the late model vehicles alts are not rebuildable or not. Sometimes we learn things the hard way. That is why the forum is here. TO learn from others and their mistakes, so you don't repeat them.
As far as paint correction, what are you doing exactly.?... Are you doing both steps of the Meg MF system only? Or are you adding to it with a more aggressive compound for deeper scratches and paint defects?. What are you using the Meg's MF sys on?
I would check the paint again even though you just clayed it a few weeks ago it could've picked up some contaminants in that time if you only had a coat of wax on the paint(not a sealant also). I always make sure the out-of-site areas are really clean since they are usually neglected most day-in and day-out. The front end, lower parts of fenders, rocker panels(side skirts), the back-end and around the exhaust are are the quickest areas to pick up contaminants from driving. Obviously the horizontal surfaces will pick up stuff just from sitting. Taping is especially helpful at keeping you from hitting the rubber trim and damaging it(scuffing it) and picking up black rubber residue onto you buffing pads. When taping it is helpful to extend the tape onto the adjacent hard surface, i.e. paint and glass, to keep anything from building up in cracks around the trim. *Be carefully pulling tape off anything but especially rubber trim so it doesn't cause spotting.* I usually give my trim a good wipe down with pro before taping over it. Since you are using a DA taping over/around badging is optional as you won't hurt them like if you were using a high speed buffer, however, it helps keep compounding/polishing dust out if the cracks around badging too. Be carefully compounding onto the tape too much as you can start picking up adhesive from the edges of the tape; at least it happens to me with the tape I use. If this happens spray some QD, final finish spray, or pad conditioner on the spots and wipe away with a dry MF. A lot of areas don't "need" to be taped if you can stay away from them or if they need some buffing anyway; like headlights and hard badging. I would recommend not compound'n any painted trim for it is usually very thinly painted/clear coated. Basically tape over anything that you are not sure of how it will react to compounding/machine buffing. Stay away from compound on curves and edges for more than a few seconds, if at all in some cases. I haven't used the MF system so I can't tell you how it going to react. I only have experience using true compounds and cutting pads, which in my experience even with a DA can be very aggressive and requires constant checking of your work sometimes.
I am tired of typing and will give someone else a chance to share the knowledge.
God bless and Godspeed with your detailing.:)

[5.4 Shelby]

The DA MF system is pretty good about not splattering, but, I tape off anyway. Especially on the textured black plastic. That stuff is very difficult to clean.

OTherwise you will love the system. It is so easy to use and get great results with.

What are you polishing?

[sparkie]

If you never have polishes a car....Take your time, don't be to aggressive, tape off area you don't want to damage, like plastic parts..Check out videos AG has...

Dual Action Orbital Polisher Guide: how to remove swirls, scratches, & oxidation with an orbital buffer. Porter Cable 7424, foam pads, backing plate, (http://www.autogeek.net/dual-action-polisher.html)

Here is another site you can check out...

Paint Care & Detailing - The Enthusiasts guide to detailing (http://paintcarendetailing.com/)

[Matt575]

Did you look into an alternator rebuild kit? I know they have them for standard alts I don't know if the late model vehicles alts are not rebuildable or not. Sometimes we learn things the hard way. That is why the forum is here. TO learn from others and their mistakes, so you don't repeat them.
As far as paint correction, what are you doing exactly.?... Are you doing both steps of the Meg MF system only? Or are you adding to it with a more aggressive compound for deeper scratches and paint defects?. What are you using the Meg's MF sys on?
I would check the paint again even though you just clayed it a few weeks ago it could've picked up some contaminants in that time if you only had a coat of wax on the paint(not a sealant also). I always make sure the out-of-site areas are really clean since they are usually neglected most day-in and day-out. The front end, lower parts of fenders, rocker panels(side skirts), the back-end and around the exhaust are are the quickest areas to pick up contaminants from driving. Obviously the horizontal surfaces will pick up stuff just from sitting. Taping is especially helpful at keeping you from hitting the rubber trim and damaging it(scuffing it) and picking up black rubber residue onto you buffing pads. When taping it is helpful to extend the tape onto the adjacent hard surface, i.e. paint and glass, to keep anything from building up in cracks around the trim. *Be carefully pulling tape off anything but especially rubber trim so it doesn't cause spotting.* I usually give my trim a good wipe down with pro before taping over it. Since you are using a DA taping over/around badging is optional as you won't hurt them like if you were using a high speed buffer, however, it helps keep compounding/polishing dust out if the cracks around badging too. Be carefully compounding onto the tape too much as you can start picking up adhesive from the edges of the tape; at least it happens to me with the tape I use. If this happens spray some QD, final finish spray, or pad conditioner on the spots and wipe away with a dry MF. A lot of areas don't "need" to be taped if you can stay away from them or if they need some buffing anyway; like headlights and hard badging. I would recommend not compound'n any painted trim for it is usually very thinly painted/clear coated. Basically tape over anything that you are not sure of how it will react to compounding/machine buffing. Stay away from compound on curves and edges for more than a few seconds, if at all in some cases. I haven't used the MF system so I can't tell you how it going to react. I only have experience using true compounds and cutting pads, which in my experience even with a DA can be very aggressive and requires constant checking of your work sometimes.
I am tired of typing and will give someone else a chance to share the knowledge.
God bless and Godspeed with your detailing.:)

Thanks for all that info!! I plan to do both steps of the Meg's and nothing else compound wise. I'm trying to get rid of swirls basically and generally fix it up to a nice shine again. I'm using it on a black 2004 Honda Civic with 155,000 miles on it. I drive it to work 100 miles round trip on the highway only. Last time I worked on the car was about 1 month ago but weather has been rough on it here in MN with all the stink'n snow lately (and road salt). When I did last work I gave it 2 coats of Klasse High Gloss Sealant and 1 coat of Pinnacle liquid souveran.

Can I use this on the front plastic bumper too or is that a no-no?

[Matt575]

If you never have polishes a car....Take your time, don't be to aggressive, tape off area you don't want to damage, like plastic parts..Check out videos AG has...

Dual Action Orbital Polisher Guide: how to remove swirls, scratches, & oxidation with an orbital buffer. Porter Cable 7424, foam pads, backing plate, (http://www.autogeek.net/dual-action-polisher.html)

Here is another site you can check out...

Paint Care & Detailing - The Enthusiasts guide to detailing (http://paintcarendetailing.com/)

I'll check those out. I have watched the video of Mike and the Meguiar dudes showing the sytem but I want to watch more and learn more before I proceed. I also plan to only do one area and see what I think before I do the whole car. Also would it be helpful to get use to the GG since I've never really used one before (use it to wax and seal)?

[Kristopher1129]

Wash and clay again. I always do an ONR wipe down before any compounding or polishing.

[ShaunD]

Yes Matt, practice with the polisher before attempting to even start compounding your car. If you have some finishing foam pads and some very fine polish that would be good to practice with. If you don't have any pads besides the Megs MF pads the I suggest using the MF finishing pad and finishing polish to practice. Just keep in mind what you learn in the videos about slow arm speed and and pick a pattern that work for you and stick with it to stay consistent. The pattern that Mike shows in his videos is ideal and ensures consistent coverage on each section pass. You always want to overlap each pass by about 50% so that you blend all your passed together and don't miss and spots. You need to keep track of where each section ends off so that you can overlap it with the adjacent section to blend them together. Since this is your first go at machine compounding/polishing, I would stay about an inch away from any sharp body lines and edges. This will keep you safe and help you to start forming good habits. You can actually tape off edges and body lines for compounding if the will be in the way of a section pass in a small area, or if you just don't want to risk hitting it while compounding; this is probably only something that you would need to worry about with high speed compounding/polishing. I practice with a wax unless it like a one-step(cleaner/polish/wax) liquid wax. And practicing with sealant is out of the question as they don't give you any time to work them to really gain much experience with a polisher. You want to practice with a polish that will give you some sort of feedback so you can see if your techniques are producing a good finish. Something that will improve that clarity of the finish with out correcting very much so you don't have to worry much about instilling new swirls/marring. An important thing is just learning what will be comfortable for when holding the machine; wether or not you want a handle on the polisher, and how to keep the cord out of your way and off the vehicle while working. The little thing are what is going to help you work smoothly and quickly with out fumbling and getting annoyed. Learning how your machine works on vertical panels is a challenge in itself; learning not to press to hard and keeping the back end of the polisher out of your way when changing direction for a pass.
It will take some time and the only way you will learn is just by doing. Don't be afraid to mess up the first go around. Just learn from those mistakes and move on. I would recommend not going past the 5 setting on any machine until you know the maximum correction it can do at the 5 and below settings.
Go forth and do great details young Matthew.;)

[ShaunD]

Wash and clay again. I always do an ONR wipe down before any compounding or polishing.
:iagree: Especially this time of year with all the pollen and stuff going through the air. I wash and clayed a client's car a week ago and because of her schedule and the weather forecast, I wasn't able to apply the sealant until yesterday(Tuesday); I did give the car a spray/wipe down with WGDGSS before giving it back a week ago. I went to her job to do the sealant. I gave it a DP rinse-less wash/gloss, then wipe it down with WG pre-wax polish enhancer and the white applicator was picking up black contamination after only a week(granted it hadn't been waxed/sealed properly). So after a few weeks of having clayed and not sealing the paint claying it again might be worthwhile like I posted previously. Won't take long to do a freshening up clay-job on the little Civic anyway.lol:)

[WRAPT C5Z06]

Wash, clay, wash, dry, tape edges near plastic trim, compound, finishing wax.......DONE!!

You REALLY have to be careless to burn your paint with a DA, don't worry about it, you'll be fine.

[ShaunD]

Wash, clay, wash, dry, tape edges near plastic trim, compound, finishing wax.......DONE!!

You REALLY have to be careless to burn your paint with a DA, don't worry about it, you'll be fine.
It's not burning with a DA, it's cutting. Not arguing Mark, just saying.:) You're right though. The only time I have had trouble usually involve wet sanding first and compounding to close to an edge or curve. Painted plastic bumpers with aged/neglected paint and thin clear are very susceptible to cut-through with a DA when compounding with a foam cutting pad. Matt, you are probably not going to have any issues especially using the MF system. I just like to warn people of the worst that can happen, from my experience. Is it Friday yet?lol Boy's gotta get to practicing!:dblthumb2:

[WRAPT C5Z06]

It's not burning with a DA, it's cutting. Not arguing Mark, just saying.:)
I've always seen it referred to as burning. Not arguing, just saying...LOL. ;)

[Kristopher1129]

I've always seen it referred to as burning. Not arguing, just saying...LOL. ;)

Yup...burning. :dblthumb2: Cutting is a term used for the abrasive action of a compound, at least I thought so.

[VIP Reflections]

Matt,

these guys gave you some good tips. i just have a few things to add.
1. make sure you watch the instructional video on how to use the MF system. You most likely did this already though.
2. The factory Honda paint is pretty hard. so if you do not get great results in swirled/scratched areas after 1st pass, dont get discouraged. its the hardness of the clear not you and repeating is needed sometimes.
3. From what i hear, these pads can get caked pretty quick. I cant confirm this since i never used the system, BUT just in case keep an eye out for it and be ready to clean the pad often while you work.
4. do not forget to prime the pad.

GL and show pics of your good results :)

[Matt575]

Matt,

these guys gave you some good tips. i just have a few things to add.
1. make sure you watch the instructional video on how to use the MF system. You most likely did this already though.
2. The factory Honda paint is pretty hard. so if you do not get great results in swirled/scratched areas after 1st pass, dont get discouraged. its the hardness of the clear not you and repeating is needed sometimes.
3. From what i hear, these pads can get caked pretty quick. I cant confirm this since i never used the system, BUT just in case keep an eye out for it and be ready to clean the pad often while you work.
4. do not forget to prime the pad.

GL and show pics of your good results :)

More great advice! Thanks! In regards to #3, I have an air compressor at the ready to clean it. I plan to take a lot of pics on the outside and inside (if it ever warms up and doesn't plan to rain for a day or two!!

On another note, the lower part of the hood looks like it was sand blasted (which it was at 80 MPH). Will this system help or do I need to do more? Anyone know if I can use this on the front plastic bumper?