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sunstealth
03-23-2011, 01:07 PM
hello, this morning i decided to "attack" the lancer paint since I had the good idea yesterday to go through a carwash for a prewash before a ONR wash, needless to say i selected the wrong option and I had to endure the goretex brushes instead of the touchless :doh:

I used my rotary to remove the deep scratches, worked well.
then i went to try my new griots polisher.

1st pass with a orange pad and ultimate compound (2x2 square, a good 4 minutes of overlapping square passes ) it then looked decent, still some small scratches/swirls there.

2nd pass, i went with a green pad and optimum opti-seal,looked a lot better still something there not to my liking (same overlap method as said before)

3rd pass, blue pad optimum finish , i dunno what happened, it leaved a deadly haze on the paint, had to go back to opti seal.

tryed optimum car-wax after that, it was hard as hell to remove and streaked a lot.

weather condition were around -5 degree celcius and sunny, the car is a black 2008 mitsubishi lancer. front end repainted.

any tricks to improve the paint look ( I can evaluate it to be around 80% better than before, id like to get it to look a lil better still)

thank you.

Mike Phillips
03-23-2011, 01:14 PM
hello, this morning i decided to "attack" the lancer paint since I had the good idea yesterday to go through a carwash for a prewash before a ONR wash, needless to say i selected the wrong option and I had to endure the goretex brushes instead of the touchless :doh:



Ouch! That's got to hurt...


Sounds like there's two problems, one is removing all the scratches, the other is restore a completely clear clear coat?

As for the scratches...




I used my rotary to remove the deep scratches, worked well.
then i went to try my new griots polisher.

1st pass with a orange pad and ultimate compound (2x2 square, a good 4 minutes of overlapping square passes ) it then looked decent, still some small scratches/swirls there.



Any and all scratches must be removed in the first step, so repeat this step and maybe shrink your work area down a little.

Fine or shallow scratches may continue to be worked out as you move through the process but the majority of scratches that can be removed... must be removed in the first correction step.

Be careful, factory paint is thin and repaints can be all over the board...

Don't know if this applies but here it is anyways...

RIDS - The Definition of RIDS and the story behind the term... (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/hot-topics-frequently-asked-questions/24045-rids-definition-rids-story-behind-term.html)



:)

Spicy McHaggis
03-23-2011, 01:29 PM
weather condition were around -5 degree celcius and sunny, the car is a black 2008 mitsubishi lancer. front end repainted.


I think that factor may have a lot to do with how the products reacted.

sunstealth
03-23-2011, 01:55 PM
seems like the products are more prone to beeing cold in that weather than me, I was wearing a sweater and shorts all the while i was polishing.

ps, just checked back the car with a different sun angle and some places polished better on the hood, mainly the cowl area.

I did a test spot on my sister mazda 3 (same overall process) that spot is now defect free, i dont understand

SeaJay's
03-23-2011, 03:17 PM
seems like the products are more prone to beeing cold in that weather than me, I was wearing a sweater and shorts all the while i was polishing.

ps, just checked back the car with a different sun angle and some places polished better on the hood, mainly the cowl area.

I did a test spot on my sister mazda 3 (same overall process) that spot is now defect free, i dont understand

Different car = different paint. Different paint systems will react differently to the same process.

The colder temps probably played a roll in the results you saw. I'd say try again when the temps get warmer.

sunstealth
03-25-2011, 02:03 PM
I placed an order on surbuf pads, I think they'll be a big help !