Menzerna Nano polish

[m4bama]

I am going to be using Griots DA with SIP first on LC CCS Smart orange pad speed of 5, then with Nano Polish using a CCs smart grey finishing pad what speed do I need use this on and how much will this bring up the gloss after SIP..

[David Fermani]

SIP/Orange - apply 4 small pea sized drops near the outer edge of the pad. Work in around the panel (2X2 area) at 1/2 throttle for 1 back in forth pass. Then, crank it up to the max and make 3-4 more very slow up and down>>side to side passes with moderate pressure. Wipe off.

Nano /Black- Same thing, but after the up/down-side/side passes, turn the speed down a notch for 2 more passes. Wipe. Done.

[LegacyGT]

Clean your pads after each section! Otherwise it will snow in your garage.

[m4bama]

OK thanx
will be cleaning the cars soon.

[m4bama]

I assume the gray pad is the one to use with Nano polish.

[Mike Phillips]

I am going to be using Griots DA with SIP first on LC CCS Smart orange pad speed of 5, then with Nano Polish using a CCs smart grey finishing pad what speed do I need use this on and how much will this bring up the gloss after SIP..

5-6 Speed Setting for Removing Swirls and Scratches. The Griot's Garage DA Polisher with 5.5" pads is like a safe version of a rotary buffer in that as long as you hold the pad flat and even if you don't), you can't really stop the pad from rotating and it's when the pad is rotating that you are removing swirls and scratches.

For follow-up polishing, you want to remove any haze left by the more aggressive pad and product and this means abrading the paint a little, so you want to start out usually at the 5.0 speed setting for your first couple of passes with firm pressure then you can lighten up for your remaining passes and "yes" your second-step polishing step will amp up the gloss and clarity and perfectly prepare the paint for application of a wax or paint sealant.

The key to buffing out any car by machine is to slice each panel up into section, because car panels vary from car to car, each car will be different but the big idea is to not tackle to large of an area at one time.

Then when you finish with one section, move onto a new section and overlap a little into the previous section for what I call good UMR or Uniform Material Removal, the idea being to equally abrade or clean all of the paint so when you do your final wipe-off the entire car has a uniform appearance, that is all the swirls and scratches have been removed.


Here's a few links with related information...


Here's a thread I wrote to helps people with the first generation Porter Cable polishers to get the best results out of using them but in reality, the tips and techniques listed work for ALL DA Polishers including the Griot's Garage DA Polisher.

How to maximize the ability of the 1st Generation Porter Cable Dual Action Polishers (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/how-articles/27166-how-maximize-ability-1st-gen-porter-cable-dual-action-polishers.html)



How to do a Section Pass

- How to do a "Section Pass" with a Porter Cable 7424XP


:)

[Mike Phillips]

Why it's important to clean your pads often... (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/tricks-tips-techniques/28755-why-s-important-clean-your-pads-often.html)


ANYTIME you're abrading the surface whether you're using an aggressive cutting compound of an ultra fine polish, you have two things building up on the face of your buffing pad...

Spent product
Removed paint
You need to remove both of these substances from the face of the pad and the panel you're working on before you apply fresh product. If you don't,

Adding fresh product to spent product and removed paint adulterates the fresh product, it also dilutes it.
Buffing with a dirty pad will be more difficult.
The product will cake-up on the face of the pad.
The product will become gummy on the paint and hard to wipe off.
How to clean your pads and other options to make buffing clean again...

You can scrub the face of the pad with a nylon brush like a pad conditioning brush or even a nylon toothbrush
If using a Dual Action Polisher or a Rotary Buffer you can clean your pad on the fly (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/how-articles/20135-how-clean-your-foam-pad-fly-when-using-porter-cable-style-da-polisher.html) with a terry cloth towel
You can wash your pads in a bucket of water
You can wash your pads in a sink under running water
You can wash your pads in a pad washer
You can switch to a clean, dry pad
You can switch to a brand new pad
I just buffed out half the hood on an oxidized 1959 Cadillac and used the technique along with a nylon brush and it works adequately enough to allow me to work clean and get back to work quickly.


That's the whole idea behind cleaning your pad on the fly... you can remove a majority of the spent product and removed paint and then get back to running the buffer... buffing out an entire car already takes a l-o-n-g time... stopping to do some kind of pad cleaning procedure that isn't quick and easy keeps you from buffing on the paint.


Fast methods include,

Pad Washers
Cleaning your pad on the fly with a terry cloth towel
Using a nylon pad conditioning brush
Using a Spur if you're using a wool pad on a rotary buffer


Slow methods, (they might work well but they take you away from buffing on the car)

You can wash your pads in a bucket of water
You can wash your pads in a sink under running water


:)

[Mike Phillips]

This is me using the Clean your Pad on the Fly Technique (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/how-articles/20135-how-clean-your-foam-pad-fly-when-using-porter-cable-style-da-polisher.html) to clean my pad on the fly as we removed the oxidation off this Neon (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/show-n-shine/31073-dodge-neon-extreme-makeover-dodo-juice.html).

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/994/EODodgeNeon010.jpg

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/994/EODodgeNeon011.jpg

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/994/EODodgeNeon012.jpg

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/994/EODodgeNeon013.jpg


:buffing:

[Mike Phillips]

Here's a tip... don't lift the pad off the paint till you've turned the polisher off and the spinning pad has slowed down... (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/tricks-tips-techniques/28940-here-s-tip-don-t-lift-pad-off-paint-till-you-ve-turned-polisher-off-spinning-pad-has-slowed-down.html)


Whoops!

Here's what happens when you lift a polisher off the paint before allowing the pad to slow down and stop spinning...

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/935/Sept18Class023.jpg


This happened at out Detailing 101 Class...

Pictures & Comments from September 18th, 2010 Saturday Detailing 101 (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/pictures-saturday-detailing-101/28890-pictures-comments-september-18th-2010-saturday-detailing-101-a.html)

:xyxthumbs:

[Mike Phillips]

Kissing the Finish by Mike Phillips (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/tricks-tips-techniques/29792-kissing-finish-mike-phillips.html)


Kissing the Finish is a technique you can use to apply a liquid wax and help keep the wax spreading out over the paint instead of loading up inside your pad.


I use the "Kissing the Finish" technique when machine applying a liquid wax or paint sealant, that is instead of taking the wax you see on the face of the pad and simply squishing it up into the foam by placing the foam pad flat against the paint, I'll first "kiss the finish" or in other words, touch the face of the foam pad with wax on it down onto your panel at an angle thus depositing only a portion of the wax on the pad to one area on the paint.

The effect is to have a bunch of dabs of wax on the paint deposited off the face of the pad. You're car's panel will look like it has spots, or arcs of product on it...


It's really the lazy man's way to machine wax a car because there are similar methods that will do the same thing. This technique works well for two reasons,

1) If you're already use a DA Polisher then you're already use to applying product to the face of the pad.

2) If you're working on vertical panels it can be a challenge to sling a small amount of product onto the vertical panel directly out of the bottle so applying to the face of the pad is faster, easier and uses less product. For horizontal panels you could simply squirt a little wax randomly over the surface and then pick up the product under the face of your buffing pad on the fly, but if you're a creature of habit you might find yourself just applying to the face of the pad via reason 1 above.



First, shake shake shake... always shake liquid car care products up thoroughly before applying.

Next, apply a small circle of product onto the face of the pad... you can also use an x-pattern or even make a smiley face... whatever makes you happy...
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/836/redelcamino_043.jpg



Next, touch down just an edge of the face of the foam pad and deposit a little of the wax to a portion of the panel you're working on.

Then after you've Kissed the Finish in a few places, take what's left and place the face of the foam pad against the paint and THEN turn the polisher on and begin making overlapping passes over the paint.

UNLIKE removing swirls with a DA Polisher where you only want to work a small section at a time, (about 20" squarish or so), if you've removed all the below surface defects and now you're just applying a wax or paint sealant, you can work a section as far as you can reach as long as you have ample product to spread out.

For the hood of this El Camino I can easily reach and work on half of the hood at one time, so I use enough wax to coat over half of the hood and move the pad over each square inch at least 2-3 passes to sufficiently work the sealant over and into, (to whatever level possible), the paint.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/836/redelcamino_045.jpg


As I come up to a dab of wax from where I "Kissed the Finish" with my pad, I tilt the polisher, lifting the leading edge of the pad but maintaining constant contact with the trailing edge of the pad and then run the pad over the dab of wax and then immediately lay the pad flat again and then work new territory with this new dab of wax.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/836/redelcamino_046.jpg

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/836/redelcamino_047.jpg



Tilt the polisher a little to lift the leading edge of the pad...
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/836/redelcamino_048.jpg


Then move the tilted leading edge over the wax to draw and trap the wax between the paint and the pad...
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/836/redelcamino_049.jpg

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/836/redelcamino_050.jpg



Then lay the pad flat and begin working the wax or in this case a synthetic paint sealant over the paint.
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/836/redelcamino_051.jpg


Continue doing this as you work around the car and all panels are coated with an application of wax or paint sealant.


This is called, Kissing the Finish...

Note: This technique works well with basecoat/clearcoat finishes because clear coat paints don't absorb liquids very well. Be careful if you use this technique on a single stage paint, especially a metallic single stage finish as portions of ANY liquid paint care product if left to stand for too long of a time on single stage paint can act to stain the paint. This is usually not a problem and simply picking up the excess with your pad and working it into the paint will even out the appearance by equally coating the entire surface.

I just want to point out that older single stage paints can and do absorb some types of liquids, so pay attention and either avoid this technique on single stage paints, or work quickly to spread the dabs of product out before any concentrated dabs of product soak into the paint.

Again, it's not really a problem, just want to make you aware because single stage paints are not very common and a lot of people have never worked on these types of paints.