How to deal with italian paint ? ( Ferrari)

[cobraa]

Hello guys,

I had 3 ferrari guys that asked me to detail their car but I never buffed italian paint yet. how are they? is there any extra care I should takes?

Thanks for your help!

[LuxuryMobile]

Well, you can of course do some test spots and start with the least aggressive products to determine your process. Or, search here and other detailing forums in their "show and shine" section and see what other guys are using on "italian" paint.

As with any exotic, be sure to tape everything off that needs to be taped off and take your time. Good luck and share some pictures!

[SeaJay's]

I would add that if your working on a Ferrari I'd take extra care! A slip up could cost you big money.

[Mike Phillips]

There's only about a dozen "Paint Manufactures" in the world, probably less that are mainstream and used by car manufactures... so it's completely possible multiple car manufactures use paints supplied by the same paint manufacture.


Like mentioned, start out by doing some testing, the idea is to,

"Use the least aggressive product to get the job done" (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/ask-expert-featuring-mike-phillips/28505-use-least-aggressive-product-get-job-done.html)


Excerpt...





"Use the least aggressive product to get the job done"


The reasoning and logic behind this statement and approach towards working on car paint is for two reasons.

Reason 1 - Automotive paints are thin
Factory applied paint whether it came on a Model T or a brand new Ford Mustang is thin, very thin, thinner than most of us prefer. It's thin because it cost more to apply more paint in the way of materials, (the paint itself), and also time, as in the time it takes to spray the paint and allow flash time in-between each coating.

Time is money, so on an assembly line, or even in a body shop, more time means more money, for theses two reasons, cost of materials and time, paint is on a new car or paint from a body shop is thin.


Reason 2 - Removing below surface defects means removing a little paint
Below Surface Paint Defects are things like swirls, scratches, and etching like Type II Water Spots. Because these types of defects are below the surface level, that means they are "in" the paint, the only way to remove them is to abrade and remove a little of the surrounding paint until you level the upper most surface of the paint job until it's level with the lowest depths of the defects you're trying to remove.



And tape off or cover any places you don't want to get polishing residue or splatter after the job is over.


:)

[Mike Phillips]

Here's a few questions...


What products, that is swirl removers and polishes have you been using in the past that you've had good luck with?

Which type of polisher are you using?

Which type of pads to you tend to use when machine polishing?



What's worked in the past on detailing projects will likely work for you on this project, the key differences are always how "polishable" the paint is and this is something you won't know until you do a Test Spot someplace on a body panel.

I always recommend using a Tape-Line when doing your testing as it will make it very easy for your eyes to detect changes, which usually mean improvements in the test area and gauge how effectively your pads, products, tool and techniques are working on this particular paint system.


http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/796/medium/TapeLine02.jpg



I test every paint system, (that's another way of saying vehicle because the paint or the "paint system" is on the vehicle, you're not working on the vehicle, per SE, but the paint system), if I've never worked on it before.

It's just a good "Best Practice"

:)

[Mike Phillips]

If this car is something you would like to use to showcase your skill and ability for others to see to gain new business, then make sure you get good before shots.


The power in the after shots is created in the before shots (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/tricks-tips-techniques/21216-power-after-shots-created-before-shots.html)


You an always get the after shots, but once you start working on the project, especially undoing damaged and/or neglected or swirled out paint, you can't go back in time and get the "before" shots.


:)

[BobbyG]

Your approach to detailing a Ferrari should be no different than detailing any other customers vehicle. Use all the same procedures; washing, clay, polishing etc. Tape off and test a section which product and pad combinations perform best and get started.

Now, you are working on an expensive car so don't rush anything. Take your time and execute your plan just like any other vehicle.

Don't forget the photos!

[Mike Phillips]

***Bump***

Any follow-up to this project?


:)

[cobraa]

***Bump***

Any follow-up to this project?


:)


Yes, I will pics later when I have times. I'm now working on a Nighawk TL.

However, the owner didn't know really what was going on with his car... This 308 ferrari was actually repainted in his lifetime so it was a ',regular'' clear coated painted and paint was burnt at 3 differents place ( small spot, but a detailer can see it :) )

And it's too bad, it had orange peel on the lower part of the part and well.. I had one day to detail it so I couldn't start wet-sanding.

It still turned out nice but it wasn't an original paint!