So damn mad...

[93fox]

Today was my worsy day ever buffing my car... My wool pads where dusting like crazy after i had cleaned them troughly! M105 was dusting extremly bad!!! My micro fiber towls were full of m105 dust! The clear on the car is so insanely hard to buff!!! I had wetsanded and buffed two days ago and everything was wonderful.. Today everything was absolutely horrible.... I got so mad i ripped the wool pad out of my makita! Stepped on it! And threw it onto the roof.... Maybe tommorow will be better...

[Perfections]

Lol wow, that's a bad day! On a positive note tomorrows another day :)

[Bates Detailing]

Today was my worsy day ever buffing my car... My wool pads where dusting like crazy after i had cleaned them troughly! M105 was dusting extremly bad!!! My micro fiber towls were full of m105 dust! The clear on the car is so insanely hard to buff!!! I had wetsanded and buffed two days ago and everything was wonderful.. Today everything was absolutely horrible.... I got so mad i ripped the wool pad out of my makita! Stepped on it! And threw it onto the roof.... Maybe tommorow will be better...

Damn man - Bet you scared the crap out of your neighbors! Sorry to hear this, but can almost guarantee you that for some odd reason...... tomorrow (after some good rest) will be better. The conditions temp wise and environment wise may be the same, but for some odd reason there will be no more compound dust.... just seems to work that way!

[93fox]

Damn man - Bet you scared the crap out of your neighbors! Sorry to hear this, but can almost guarantee you that for some odd reason...... tomorrow (after some good rest) will be better. The conditions temp wise and environment wise may be the same, but for some odd reason there will be no more compound dust.... just seems to work that way!

I was at my uncles shop and no one was around.. I felt like lighting the damn car on fire....

[Rhudeboye]

Yup, that's typically the way it goes. A fresh start with a clear head makes things right.

Outside of being covered in compound dust, some bird is going to be very comfortable tonight.

[Perfections]

I was at my uncles shop and no one was around.. I felt like lighting the damn car on fire....

Lol you sound like a friend of mine except he did it!

[dad07]

I was at my uncles shop and no one was around.. I felt like lighting the damn car on fire....


We all have those days...its all good and funny later on...Just don't stop trying!:cheers: Have a cold one on me you'll feel better!

[93fox]

Lol you sound like a friend of mine except he did it!

He lit the car on fire!?

[Kristopher1129]

Damn dude. Have you tried misting a little water on to the panel you're about to buff with 105. I find that gives a LOT more spread time. I also noticed that 105 works better at lower rpms with the wool pad.

With the water, and the lower rpms...that should help. The only thing is...I hope you have a ladder, cause your pad is on the roof now, haha. :dblthumb2:

[93fox]

Damn dude. Have you tried misting a little water on to the panel you're about to buff with 105. I find that gives a LOT more spread time. I also noticed that 105 works better at lower rpms with the wool pad.

With the water, and the lower rpms...that should help. The only thing is...I hope you have a ladder, cause your pad is on the roof now, haha. :dblthumb2:

Hmm i mean i wet sand with 1500 an then 2000... The thing is that this cas has PPG DCU 2021 clear... Its one of the HARDEST clears to buff! I know you've done this more than me but at what rpm do u suggest me to run the wool pad on the makita? I mostly sand all the orange peel off when i buff!

[Kristopher1129]

Hmm i mean i wet sand with 1500 an then 2000... The thing is that this cas has PPG DCU 2021 clear... Its one of the HARDEST clears to buff! I know you've done this more than me but at what rpm do u suggest me to run the wool pad on the makita? I mostly sand all the orange peel off when i buff!

I usually keep it no higher than 1500, and that's with the water keeping it moist. I prefer around 1200 or so. Works great for me.

I'm not suggesting you're doing it wrong. I'm just sharing what works for me. It just sounded as if you were having problems with the 105 drying up on you. I had the same issue when I first used 105 according to the directions on the back. I just felt the rpms they suggested were a bit high for the product. :cheers:

[Lasthope05]

1800rpm is usually what is recommended for use with compounds and heavy defect removal. You need speed to effectively remove defects. Follow that up with a polish and the zenith technique and your good to go.

[tuscarora dave]

Here is something that I wrote to help a fellow member get through the learning curve with M-105 on his rotary. Bare in mind that he was using foam pads. I had developed this technique with the help of Dana (AsphaltRocket) and Kevin Brown. It may or may not help you out. The member I wrote this for turned out a flawless finish on black after reading and trying this method.

Originally Posted by tuscarora dave
Ok for the 105, let's see if I you can follow my illustration of how I do things... Since you mention RPM I assume that you are using a rotary. When I use 105 / rotary with moderate to severe paint defects I work in or around a 24 inch squared section, if it is real hard paint I will be using an orange or light cutting pad. If the paint is on the softer side I use a white or polishing pad. I prefer 6 inch pads so I am basing my RPM suggestion on a 6 inch pad.

First I take and apply some polish to the pad and using the edge of my index finger I will sort of push the polish across the pad (sort of like how a snow plow pushes snow) I an trying to create a very thin layer of polish that is not on the pad but in the pad just under the surface. "Very thin" in fact so thin that it appears to be dry. I repeat this process until the entire pad surface is primed 100% with this very thin layer of product. The purpose of this is to have product on the entire pad so it will act as a barrier so the additional product that I use will remain between the pad and paint when being worked on the paint instead of just soaking right into the pad. (kind of like having a juicy hamburger and spreading mayo on the bun so that the burger juice doesn't soak through the bun).

I will actually go ahead and run 1 section pass at 1100-1200RPM before adding anymore product. after running one section pas with the primed pad, I will stop the machine and apply 4 dots of 105 to the pad and run maybe 3 section passes. by the time the 3rd section pass is complete the product is starting to dry up and dust. Stop when you see this happening, sit the machine down.

Have a spray bottle full of water only (tap water works fine) with a trigger sprayer that atomizes the water into a very fine mist and mist the section with a very fine mist of water.(not the pad but the section you are working on) run 3 more section passes and you will notice that the pad will seem to have a little more bite on the second 3 section passes. What you want to see after your second set of 3 section passes is a thin hard dried up crusting of spent polish on the pad. wipe your section clean with Isopropyl alcohol 50/50 with water and check your work. It should be corrected unless you have very deep scratches.

After you finish the first section take a stiff bristled pad cleaning brush (I use a denture brush from walmart it's way better than what AG sells and cheaper) and brush the pad until all the hard crusty product is off of the pad. If you try just adding more product and not brushing the pad clean first, you will not get correction on you next passes.

Get a dust mask because you can not avoid the dusting. Practice this process for a while before giving up on it. Once you get the hang of it you will literally cut hours off of your detailing times. Keep it at 1100-1200 RPM with both 105 and 205.

[BobbyG]

Well I told you to be careful when using a rotary polisher....:laughing:

We've all had those days and this one won't be the last....

[Kristopher1129]

Here is something that I wrote to help a fellow member get through the learning curve with M-105 on his rotary. Bare in mind that he was using foam pads. I had developed this technique with the help of Dana (AsphaltRocket) and Kevin Brown. It may or may not help you out. The member I wrote this for turned out a flawless finish on black after reading and trying this method.

Originally Posted by tuscarora dave
Ok for the 105, let's see if I you can follow my illustration of how I do things... Since you mention RPM I assume that you are using a rotary. When I use 105 / rotary with moderate to severe paint defects I work in or around a 24 inch squared section, if it is real hard paint I will be using an orange or light cutting pad. If the paint is on the softer side I use a white or polishing pad. I prefer 6 inch pads so I am basing my RPM suggestion on a 6 inch pad.

First I take and apply some polish to the pad and using the edge of my index finger I will sort of push the polish across the pad (sort of like how a snow plow pushes snow) I an trying to create a very thin layer of polish that is not on the pad but in the pad just under the surface. "Very thin" in fact so thin that it appears to be dry. I repeat this process until the entire pad surface is primed 100% with this very thin layer of product. The purpose of this is to have product on the entire pad so it will act as a barrier so the additional product that I use will remain between the pad and paint when being worked on the paint instead of just soaking right into the pad. (kind of like having a juicy hamburger and spreading mayo on the bun so that the burger juice doesn't soak through the bun).

I will actually go ahead and run 1 section pass at 1100-1200RPM before adding anymore product. after running one section pas with the primed pad, I will stop the machine and apply 4 dots of 105 to the pad and run maybe 3 section passes. by the time the 3rd section pass is complete the product is starting to dry up and dust. Stop when you see this happening, sit the machine down.

Have a spray bottle full of water only (tap water works fine) with a trigger sprayer that atomizes the water into a very fine mist and mist the section with a very fine mist of water.(not the pad but the section you are working on) run 3 more section passes and you will notice that the pad will seem to have a little more bite on the second 3 section passes. What you want to see after your second set of 3 section passes is a thin hard dried up crusting of spent polish on the pad. wipe your section clean with Isopropyl alcohol 50/50 with water and check your work. It should be corrected unless you have very deep scratches.

After you finish the first section take a stiff bristled pad cleaning brush (I use a denture brush from walmart it's way better than what AG sells and cheaper) and brush the pad until all the hard crusty product is off of the pad. If you try just adding more product and not brushing the pad clean first, you will not get correction on you next passes.

Get a dust mask because you can not avoid the dusting. Practice this process for a while before giving up on it. Once you get the hang of it you will literally cut hours off of your detailing times. Keep it at 1100-1200 RPM with both 105 and 205.

:iagree: