Bought a used car, where do I begin?

[prostar]

Hi all,

I mentioned in a previous post that I picked up a 99 M3. (Sorry, no pics yet. I wanted to do some before and after pics) The previous owner had some sort of wax applied to it as I can tell from "left-overs" in the cracks. I want to get a nice baseline starting point for my car.

When am I supposed to "strip" the wax?

My order of procedure is:
1) wash
2) clay
3) megs 205 or 105 depending on my test spot results
4) apply DP Poli-Coat sealant

When do I remove the old wax from the previous owner? Does that actually happen when I clay and use the megs twins? I just want to make sure there is good bonding going on.

Thanks everyone for your input!

[Blackthorn One]

You can wash it with Dawn, which strips wax fairly well. I would wash with Dawn after washing with car wash soap, because car wash soap has lubricants to reduce scratching. Most medium to fine grade clays(the ones most commonly used ) will strip wax off. However, once you get done washing with car wash soap and claying, and then polish, there won't be any wax left on the car. It will be all stripped off by that point. I would remove wax from the crevices after the wash step, during claying. Sometimes getting old dried on wax can lead to slight marring, so it is best to remove wax before polishing, so as to avoid needing to polish twice.

[tuscarora dave]

I would do just what Blackthornone has said to do. If the previous owner's wax residue is between body panels and rubber trim pieces I would suggest having some small soft brushes and clean it out with them and some APC because clay can make it's own mess on or under trim pieces. Congrats on your purchase. I can't wait to see the pics.

[jimmyjam]

You can wash it with Dawn, which strips wax fairly well. I would wash with Dawn after washing with car wash soap, because car wash soap has lubricants to reduce scratching. Most medium to fine grade clays(the ones most commonly used ) will strip wax off. However, once you get done washing with car wash soap and claying, and then polish, there won't be any wax left on the car. It will be all stripped off by that point. I would remove wax from the crevices after the wash step, during claying. Sometimes getting old dried on wax can lead to slight marring, so it is best to remove wax before polishing, so as to avoid needing to polish twice.

:iagree:
Taking time in the prep process will show in the end result,you might want to try Griot's Garage Dried-On Wax Remover, remove dried wax, Griots Garage Wax Remover (http://www.autogeek.net/griots-garage-wax-remover.html) it work wonders for me!

[A4 1.8tqm]

As others said, remove the old wax during the Wash/Clay steps. I think the real concern is the dried up stuff in the cracks and not so much any old wax that is (or isn't) present over the body panels. Cleaning this crap out before polishing is crucial, so you don't end up marring your perfectly polished paint by trying to clean it afterward. In my personal, non-professional opinion, skip the dish soap. It's just my opinion, but I really dislike how much I see it recommended. A thorough wash and clay will leave your paint in prime condition for polishing. I like CG's Citrus Wash and Clear for a "wax stripping soap" between LSP's, but in all honesty it's probably not necessary given the following steps of clay/polish.

For a good pre-polishing clean up, build yourself a little arsenal of tools and cleaners. Dedicate some time to just cleaning up all the little area's around the exterior without worrying about doing any other steps. Grab some Clay and lube, APC, foam applicators (or even the little foam triangles for cosmetics, dollar store), soft brushes, Q-tips, toothpicks, spray bottle of water with a strong "stream" setting, a bucket of car wash and a mitt, air compressor, etc. and go to town!

And you can't go wrong buying a rolling stool with under-seat storage!

:hungry: for M3 :Picture:

[Mike Phillips]

Hi all,

I mentioned in a previous post that I picked up a 99 M3.

(Sorry, no pics yet. I wanted to do some before and after pics)



Congrats on the new-to-you-new-car!

The power in the after shots is created in the before shots (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/tricks-tips-techniques/21216-power-after-shots-created-before-shots.html)


:)

[BillyJack]

For a good pre-polishing clean up, build yourself a little arsenal of tools and cleaners. Dedicate some time to just cleaning up all the little area's around the exterior without worrying about doing any other steps. Grab some Clay and lube, APC, foam applicators (or even the little foam triangles for cosmetics, dollar store), soft brushes, Q-tips, toothpicks, spray bottle of water with a strong "stream" setting, a bucket of car wash and a mitt, air compressor, etc. and go to town!


I agree completely. Having acquired a "new to me" older used car recently, don't rush into the correction process until everything is clean, clean, clean. I attacked each panel individually, scrubbing all the nooks and crevices with car wash soap, an assortment of brushes, APC and an aggressive clay. Underhood area, cowl, wheel wells, jambs, gas door area, trunk lip, around any trim or lights, all got a thorough cleaning. After a rinse and dry I did one more pass with a milder clay and a spray detailer and the car as a whole looked remarkably better. Finally it was time to do an area by area correction assessment and do what's necessary to get the finish where you want it. As Mike P. always preaches, avoid never go backwards on a detail. Do step 1 completely before moving to step 2. It may try your patience a bit, but you'll be happier in the long run.

Bill

[prostar]

Thanks again everyone! Once again, you forum members have been very helpful. This is the kind of information that I was hoping to get.

Mike-Thank you for posting the reminder about the power of the "before" pics. I will keep it in mind when the time comes.

I intend to take my time with this car. This was my dream car in high school. (Did I just date myself) I actually just sold the car I "settled" for in order to buy this one. Funny how it comes back full circle.

Again, thanks again for your input. If there's anyone else that wants to chime in and give your thoughts and opinions, I'm still listening.

[Fly bye]

An old toothbrush works great for removing contaminates from areas not easily accessible :xyxthumbs:

[mdb917]

Congrats on your M3 purchase. :xyxthumbs: What color is your M3?

The E36 M3 is one of my all time favorites. FWIW, I'm the "Immediate Past President of the BMW CCA Iowa Chapter" so BMWs are in my blood so to speak.

I'm new to the power buffing world so I'm defering your questions to these experts. I can add that Dawn will strip any existing waxes and if you have smaller brushes you can get into the cracks and crevices where residue resides.

Post up pics when you get the chance.

[Blackthorn One]

An old toothbrush works great for removing contaminates from areas not easily accessible :xyxthumbs:







Toothbrushes are very effective, but they can leave scratches. There are soft, medium, and hard bristled toothbrushes. They are not all equally soft. I prefer a boar's hair detail brush which won't noticeably mar the paint, yet is still stiff when wet.
I would even prefer a 100% horsehair paint brush with any metal band on the brush covered with electrical tape used with a wax remover before I would consider a toothbrush on something I REALLY cared about.
I once used a horsehair and nylon(nylon bristles among horsehair to stiffen it) in order to remove dried on wax from crevices and it left marring around the area where I used it to remove the wax. Big mistake.

The gentlest methods are the best, if a little time consuming. Also, liquid cleaner wax can be used to remove dried on wax in a pinch, because the solvents that keep the wax liquid will liquefy the dried on wax and remove it. You need to do very small sections at a time, though, like 3 square inches or less, and wipe immediately.

Boar's hair detail brushes are the best tool to clean nooks and crannies with, IMO, whether you are removing old wax, or are just washing the car. Yes, a softer brush takes more time to use, but it will save you more time because you won't need to re polish later.

[blob]

If you happen to have a Malco dealer nearby, grab some "S.A.P SURFACE AND PAINT CLARIFIER" works incredibly well cleaning old wax, cleaning rubbers and trim, and is the best product that I have ever used on tree sap.

[WRAPT C5Z06]

I would not use a toothbrush. I tried it on some weather stripping on my car and it scratched the hell outta the paint. Use something like this with Optimum Power Clean(paint safe APC)....

Lug Nut Brush,Clean Wheel Brush,clean brake calipers, clean lug nuts, boar's hair wheel brush, best wheel brush, wheel lug nuts (http://www.autogeek.net/lug-nut-brush.html)

[Fly bye]

I have never had a problem using a toothbrush. The toothbrush I've used in the past was not only a soft bristled brush, it had lots of miles on it (it was very worn). I've never used it dry, I've always made sure it was wet with an instant detailer, as an instant detailer will loosen contaminates/particulates. When I have used a toothbrush in the past, I've always been very gentle with it.

It's what I had at the time, and it worked great when nothing else I had would remove contaminates/particulates out of cracks (where two body panels meet). I have never ever scratched my paint using my old, retired toothbrush, and will use it again :xyxthumbs:

[Fly bye]

http://media.brianalvey.com/2008/10/02/mr-clean.jpg


This is who Mark reminds me of :D