Meguiars Ultimate Compound

[rocdup0254]

Just wondering if anyone has used Meguiars Ultimate Compound. Does it leave scratches behind in the paint like rubbing compound does. I have some stubborn swirls in the back of both my dads 03 Yukon Denali and my 03 Explorer. I dont want to create more swirls than whats already there. I recently got the PC7424 but havent really used it much besides with Paintwork Cleansing Lotion, Glaze's and Wax. Let me know your experiences with the product.

[Mike Burke]

I think it's great ......I use it instead of 105. Just seams to work better for me. It has a good working time........I follow it with 205. :xyxthumbs:

[fancyfootwork]

Megs UC works great. Its a mix of 105 and 205. What compound are you using that is leaving scratches behind?

[rocdup0254]

Nothing the only compound I ever saw anyone use was rubbing compound and it scratched the finish. If I use Ultimate Compound does it leave any etching behind or will it be safe to top with MG Show Car Glaze no 7 and wax

[fancyfootwork]

Nothing the only compound I ever saw anyone use was rubbing compound and it scratched the finish. If I use Ultimate Compound does it leave any etching behind or will it be safe to top with MG Show Car Glaze no 7 and wax

Safe to top, but I would go over it with M205 just to finish it out a little better. I have topped numerous cars after just using Megs UC as part of my single step if the car requires it. What type of car are you trying to buff? You may want to try using M205 FIRST, and if that doesnt work.. go to UC. Remember to always use the least abrasive first.

[Setec Astronomy]

Yeah, that Turtle Wax, DuPont, etc. rubbing compound in a can...don't use that. Meg's UC is nothing like that, it has microabrasives.

[rocdup0254]

Black 03 GMC Yukon Xl Denali and Black 03 Ford Explorer

[fancyfootwork]

Black 03 GMC Yukon Xl Denali and Black 03 Ford Explorer

I haven't worked on either of those.. but from my experience with other GMC's and Fords.. they have fairly harder clear coat. Still try to use the least abrasive method first and then go to a stronger compound.

[VISITOR]

Just wondering if anyone has used Meguiars Ultimate Compound. Does it leave scratches behind in the paint like rubbing compound does. I have some stubborn swirls in the back of both my dads 03 Yukon Denali and my 03 Explorer. I dont want to create more swirls than whats already there. I recently got the PC7424 but havent really used it much besides with Paintwork Cleansing Lotion, Glaze's and Wax. Let me know your experiences with the product.

give the UC a try with the PC, it's designed to work with the DA and/or by hand. it works quite well IME...

[Mike Phillips]

Just wondering if anyone has used Meguiar's Ultimate Compound. Does it leave scratches behind in the paint like rubbing compound does.



No, it's a completely different abrasive technology. I've demonstrated in front of hundreds of people by hand, DA and Rotary Buffer with both M105 and UC and it's a very effective and efficient compound.

In my list of How-To Articles (http://tinyurl.com/y9gcarg) I have two articles on SMAT products, one is rather lengthy but does go into detail.

The SMAT Pack - Everything you ever wanted to know about Meguiar's SMAT products... (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/hot-topics-frequently-asked-questions/23561-smat-pack-everything-you-ever-wanted-know-about-meguiar-s-smat-products.html)

The Aggressiveness Order of SMAT Products - This might surprise you! (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/hot-topics-frequently-asked-questions/23583-aggressiveness-order-smat-products-might-surprise-you.html)






I have some stubborn swirls in the back of both my dads 03 Yukon Denali and my 03 Explorer. I don't want to create more swirls than whats already there. I recently got the PC7424 but haven't really used it much besides with Paintwork Cleansing Lotion, Glaze's and Wax. Let me know your experiences with the product.


Besides the right tools, pads and products, you need to use good technique. SMAT products are pretty Bubba-Proof in that you can stop anytime during the buffing process unlike a DAT products which should be worked till the end of the buffing cycle to completely break down the abrasives.

Watch this and then duplicate the technique to a TEST SPOT. Make sure you can make one small area look GREAT before going over an entire panel or the entire car.

Show Car Garage Video: How-To do a "Section Pass" when Machine Polishing with a DA Polisher (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/how-videos/24074-video-how-do-section-pass-when-machine-buffing.html)


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Here's how to do a "Section Pass" when trying to remove swirls, scratches and other below surface paint defects.


How to do a Section Pass

- How to do a "Section Pass" with a Porter Cable 7424XP




When talking about machine polishing on discussion forums or even in detailing classes, the below questions always comes up,

What's a pass?
How many passes do I make?
What's a section pass?


The definition of a pass
There are two definitions of the word pass as it relates to machine polishing with any type of machine.


Single Pass
A single pass is just that. It's when you move the polisher from one side of the section you're buffing to the other side of the section you're buffing. That's a single pass.


Section Pass
A section pass is when you move the polisher back and forth, or front to back with enough single overlapping passes to cover the entire section one time. That's a section pass.

In most cases if you're removing any substantial below surface defects you're going to make 6-8 section passes to the section you’re working before you either feel comfortable you've removed the defects or you're at the end of the buffing cycle for the product you're using.


Buffing Cycle
The buffing cycle is the amount of time you are able to work the product before the abrasives have broken down, (if you’re using a product that uses diminishing abrasives), and/or the product begins to dry and you lose the lubricating features of the product. Different products have different buffing cycles depending upon the type of abrasives used in the formula and the different ingredients used to suspend the abrasives and provide lubrication.



Factors that affect the buffing cycle include,

Ambient temperature
Surface temperature
Size of work area
Type of machine
Type of pad material
Humidity
Wind or air flow surrounding the car
Amount of product used
Technique


Wet buffing technique
Most compounds and polishes should be used so that there is enough product on the surface to maintain a wet film while the product is being worked. The wetness of the product is lubricating the paint as the abrasives abrade the paint and cushion or buffer the abrading action so the abrasives don’t simply scour the finish leaving behind swirls and scratches.


Dry Buffing Technique - Buffing to a dry buff
There are some products on the market where the manufacture recommends buffing the product until it dries. As the product dries you’ll tend to see some dusting as the product residue becomes a powder and the paint will have a hard, dry shine to it.

Although some manufactures recommend this, it’s important to understand what’s taking place at the surface level as you buff to a dry buff. As the product dries, in essence you are losing the lubricating features of the product and as this happens friction and heat will increase. As friction and heat increases, so does the risk of micro-marring the paint or instilling swirls either by the product residue or the pad material and/or a combination of both.

While we trust that the manufacture knows their products best, when we take a close look at what it means to buff on a delicate surface like an automotive clear coat, it doesn’t make sense to run a buffing pad on top of the paint without some kind of wet film to lubricate the paint at the same time. We always recommend that you follow the manufacturer's recommendations and use your own judgment.

Everyone new to buffing wants to be told some easily identifiable sign that they can use to tell when it's time to stop buffing and it's not that simple, so here's an indicator I've always used and taught to others,

Wet film behind your path-of-travel
As you're making a single pass with the polisher, the paint behind the path of travel of the buffer should have a visible wet film on it. If the paint behind the pad is dry and shiny, you've run out of lubrication and you're dry buffing. Turn the polisher off. Wipe the residue off and inspect using a Swirl Finder Light to make sure you didn't dull or mar the paint, you usually won't cause any harm, but pay attention when your running the polisher and don't buff to a dry buff. If you do, you can quickly re-polish that section by cleaning your pad and adding a little fresh product and making a few new section passes.


UMR
Remember, in most cases the goal is UMR or Uniform Material Removal. The reason for this is so that you remove an equal amount of paint over each section and in turn over the entire car. In order to do this you need a method that you can control and duplicate and for most people following a back and forth, side-to-side pattern works because it’s easy to remember, easy to do and easy to duplicate.


Resources
The above video segment is a 4 minute clip filmed during the extended version of How To Remove Swirls using any Dual Action Polisher like the Meguair's G110v2 (http://www.autogeek.net/meguiars-dual-action-polisher-g110.html) and the Griot's Garage ROP (http://www.autogeek.net/griots-random-orbital-polisher.html) and all models of he Porter Cable Dual Action Polisher, including the PC7424XP (http://www.autogeek.net/dual-action-polishers.html), PC7424, PC7336, G100


How to Remove Swirls using the Porter Cable 7424XP or any D.A. Polisher (http://www.palmbeachmotoring.net/ascg-videos/porter-2-20-10.html)


:)

[Mike Phillips]

Also, after using a compound it's normal to follow-up with a less aggressive product. Kind of depends upon what your expectations are for your car's finish. M205 is the normal follow-up for M105 and it will leave a great looking finish perfect for applying a wax or paint sealant.

You stated you have a PC 7424 and not a PC 7424XP, if that's the case, then read this,

How to maximize the ability of the 1st Generation Porter Cable Dual Action Polishers (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/how-articles/27166-how-maximize-ability-1st-gen-porter-cable-dual-action-polishers.html)


More articles on the PC here,

How much product do I use with my DA Polisher? (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/tricks-tips-techniques/26962-how-much-product-do-i-use-my-da-polisher.html)

How to use a microfiber bonnet to remove dried wax by machine (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/how-articles/29369-how-use-microfiber-bonnet-remove-dried-wax-machine.html)

The Definitive How-To Article for Removing Swirls, Scratches and Water Spots Using a Porter Cable 7424XP, G110v2 or Griot's Garage Polisher (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/tricks-tips-techniques/20021-definitive-how-article-removing-swirls-scratches-water-spots-using-porter-cable-7424xp-g110v2-griot-s-garage-polisher.html) - Includes Videos


Even more in my article list...


:)

[Dr Oldz]

Megs UC works great. Its a mix of 105 and 205.

Where did you get this info from? I don't believe that to be true! Is this from personal experience of using all three products?

[Mike Phillips]

Where did you get this info from? I don't believe that to be true! Is this from personal experience of using all three products?

I think they were just trying to say it's easier to work with than M105?

It's not a mix of M105 and M205, Megs doesn't work that way.

Also... there's this...



The Aggressiveness Order of SMAT Products - This might surprise you! (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/hot-topics-frequently-asked-questions/23583-aggressiveness-order-smat-products-might-surprise-you.html)


Super Micro Abrasive Technology = SMAT
From left to right, the most aggressive to the least aggressive SMAT products
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/828/SMATaggressivenessOrder.jpg

From the most to the least aggressive...
M105 Ultra-Cut Compound/M95 Speed Cut Compound = The same in abrading power
Ultimate Compound
ScratchX 2.0
M86 Solo Cut & Polish Cream
D151 Paint Reconditioning Cream
SwirlX
M205 Ultra Finishing Polish

Now instead of SCANNING... (like we're all prone to do on discussion forums), read the below very carefully.

The order shown here is relative, to the idea that if all things were equal, if all influencing factors could be controlled and be identical when using these products.

That of course is impossible because some of these products are only recommended for use with a rotary buffer while some of these products are only recommended for use by hand or with a dual action polisher. So if we were to follow the manufactures recommendations then we wouldn't be able to compare all of these products side-by-side because in some examples they cannot be used in an equal manner.

Does that make sense?

This article is just to give you a GENERAL idea for the aggressiveness of these products when relatively compared to one another. The way a product is applied, (by hand or machine and if by machine the type of machine), and the application material used to apply the products, (foam, wool, wool/acrylic blend, cotton, microfiber), are both HUGE factors that will and do affect how aggressive a product is or isn't.

So keep this in mind when considering which product to choose and use for your detailing project.

Also keep in mind this is a very diverse group of products, all of these products except the D151 PRC are products with the dedicated purpose of removing below surface defects like swirls, scratches and other etchings and blemishes.

The D151 is a one-step cleaner/wax that has the ability to remove below surface defects, polish the paint to a high gloss and then leave behind a coating of protection.

Any questions?

:)

[weavers]

I love ultimate compound, cheaper than m105, very little dust, long working time. Easily get 6 passes if not more. I've been using UC more and more and for daily drivers 6 passes with m105 on a lake country orange pad, well it looks like a one stepper. It cleans the paint and leaves a good finish. On lighter cars I can't tell the difference between UC and areas where I did UC followed by m205 on a white pad. On darker colour cars m205 improves the finish and leaves great results.

Most people say for a one step polish get an AIO like xmt 360. I have that but the cut is only 2. I can see results, but they are limited. UC cuts more and achives a better result. but like others said always follow with m205 or another finish polish.


BTW I've have a car outside and all I did was meg UC with orange pad and the car beads. I dunno maybe UC has some polish oils or something. I did wipe down the car and I've washed it a few times,(not with ONR). Still it beads.

[Dr Oldz]

I think they were just trying to say it's easier to work with than M105?

It's not a mix of M105 and M205, Megs doesn't work that way.

I thought it was reference to cutting ability! :dblthumb2: MY BAD!!