Glaze

[arkus]

I just applied Menzerna glaze to my car followed up by Menzerna powergloss . All I can say is wow . I didn't think my car could get any better and it sure did .
Question , will sealant lock in the glaze's oils ?

[RaskyR1]

I just applied Menzerna glaze to my car followed up by Menzerna powergloss . All I can say is wow . I didn't think my car could get any better and it sure did .
Question , will sealant lock in the glaze's oils ?

I think you meant to say Power Lock. :props:

[Mike Phillips]

Theoretically "yes"

See this article I just wrote...

Miscible and Immiscible - Wax and Paint Sealant Bonding (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/hot-topics-frequently-asked-questions/31186-miscible-immiscible-wax-paint-sealant-bonding.html)


:xyxthumbs:

[Wendell Jarvis]

I think you meant to say Power Lock. :props:

Hey, This could be a great name for a New Product........I dig it........Menzerna Power Gloss....

[arkus]

I meant power lock

[JonMiles]

Hey, This could be a great name for a New Product........I dig it........Menzerna Power Gloss....

Menzerna Power Gloss, menzerna powergloss, menzerna S34A, menzerna s34, menzerna compound (http://www.autogeek.net/menzerna-powergloss-compound-16.html)

[Kurt_s]

Menzerna Power Gloss, menzerna powergloss, menzerna S34A, menzerna s34, menzerna compound (http://www.autogeek.net/menzerna-powergloss-compound-16.html)

Hey Jon,

Happy New Year! Power Gloss actually sounds like something that I should have in my tool kit. I typically use M105 and Ultimate Compound, and have WG TSR and FG as well.

Do you use and like Power Gloss?

[JonMiles]

Hey Jon,

Happy New Year! Power Gloss actually sounds like something that I should have in my tool kit. I typically use M105 and Ultimate Compound, and have WG TSR and FG as well.

Do you use and like Power Gloss?

Power Gloss is my go-to compound right now. I really like everything about it, except the dusting. The working time is perfect with a rotary and it cuts nicely. I always follow with SIP because the Power Gloss leaves holograms almost all of the time. IME the 105 and Power Gloss both cut about the same, but the 105 flashes so quickly that I don't feel like messing with it anymore.

Another one to look at...Four Star HCC is the best cut I've seen to date and the working time is about 3 or so minutes. It requires follow up but can remove anything that does not require sanding in 1 or 2 passes.

[Kurt_s]

Power Gloss is my go-to compound right now. I really like everything about it, except the dusting. The working time is perfect with a rotary and it cuts nicely. I always follow with SIP because the Power Gloss leaves holograms almost all of the time. IME the 105 and Power Gloss both cut about the same, but the 105 flashes so quickly that I don't feel like messing with it anymore.

Another one to look at...Four Star HCC is the best cut I've seen to date and the working time is about 3 or so minutes. It requires follow up but can remove anything that does not require sanding in 1 or 2 passes.

Thanks Jon,

I hate dust. I don't like CG's ProPolish because it snows when I use it. 105 does flash pretty quickly and I've learned a few tricks. I've also thought about trying a couple drops of baby oil. I like Optimum's compounds and polishes because they don't dust but M105 cuts better and I don't want to spend extra hours because of a little dust. Would you say that for a DA-only guy like me (I have 5.5" flats, HT and SurBufs), Power Gloss might be easier to use than 105? I'm still trying to figure out my favorite combos and get off this crazy merry go round for a while.

Is Four Star HCC a rocks in a bottle compound or does it finish ok so I could use a light polish as a 2 step on a dark car? What do you use after HCC?

[arkus]

This thread is about glaze

[JonMiles]

Thanks Jon,

I hate dust. I don't like CG's ProPolish because it snows when I use it. 105 does flash pretty quickly and I've learned a few tricks. I've also thought about trying a couple drops of baby oil. I like Optimum's compounds and polishes because they don't dust but M105 cuts better and I don't want to spend extra hours because of a little dust. Would you say that for a DA-only guy like me (I have 5.5" flats, HT and SurBufs), Power Gloss might be easier to use than 105? I'm still trying to figure out my favorite combos and get off this crazy merry go round for a while.

Is Four Star HCC a rocks in a bottle compound or does it finish ok so I could use a light polish as a 2 step on a dark car? What do you use after HCC?

If I were you, I would stick with the 105 or Optimum, PG just doesn't break down well without a lot of friction.

HCC is a decent finisher but it needs an extra step or 2 badly. Dark cars will probably need a 3 step, lighter cars you can get away with 2 steps but the finish won't be perfect. I use it for spot compounding to get rid of stuff that nothing else will remove. From there I follow with Four Star LCC and SMR to get the paint perfect. They have an entire system designed for body shop use that is great for multi-stage correction.

[JonMiles]

This thread is about glaze

Sorry for the hijack.

Your question is pretty open for discussion but it all depends on the substituents of the products being used. If you are laying down a bunch of hydrophobic oils with a glaze, you may have a problem with the bonding of many polymers that bond in a manner that forces a hydrophilic side chain downwards to the paint. The same may occur with hydrophilic substituents and sheeting sealants.

With most sealants, your best bet is to have a naked surface for the initial layer because they are designed to bond to paint and not to oils on the paint.

In macro theory, you should be able to lock in the oils with a sealant due to a cross linked array over the top of the oils. But in micro theory, the oils may interfere with the cross linking or with the initial bond to the surface.

I would place my bet that a sealant over glaze will not last as long on the surface as a sealant on clean paint.

[Kurt_s]

This thread is about glaze
sorry about the hijack.

Jon is right about hydrophobic and hydrophilic interactions with a glaze and sealant. You can try it and one of two things will happen, the mixed glaze/sealant will be incompatible or it will work out fine.

There are a few new glazes that seem to be a type of polymer that may work well with sealants. The older glazes like #7 might or might not be compatible with the newer sealants. I have the new CG Glosswerkz polymer glaze under DGPS which seems to work fine. I have never tried any of my older glazes like #7 or Omega Glaze under a sealant or the newer hybrid waxes.

Good luck.

[BobbyG]

I just applied Menzerna glaze to my car followed up by Menzerna powergloss . All I can say is wow . I didn't think my car could get any better and it sure did .
Question , will sealant lock in the glaze's oils ?

Generally speaking, yes.

A glaze offers a temporary disguise to a finish by filling swirls and small imperfections leaving the surface looking very wet and glossy. The downside to a glaze is it's only temporary and offer virtually no protection at all.

After a glaze is applied give it time to dry and then overcoat with a sealant or some protective product. This give a glaze protection allowing it's appearance to last longer. That said, at some point these coatings will degrade to the point where all those little imperfections will once again be visible.