Little help with M95

[slickooz]

I bought a lot of used stuff from a friend couple months ago and I just found out that I M95 is recommened for only rotary. Will I risk damaging a car if I use it with DA? I don't have a rotary and I have a gallon of M95.

[ExoticAutoDetai]

I bought a lot of used stuff from a friend couple months ago and I just found out that I M95 is recommened for only rotary. Will I risk damaging a car if I use it with DA? I don't have a rotary and I have a gallon of M95.

:) Give it to me I got a rotary.

Exotic Auto Detail via tapatalk

[PAR Detailing]

I have used it with a da before. It will still cut. Maybe not optimally but it worked just fine for me when I did it.

[Mike Phillips]

M95 uses both SMAT and DAT, in simple terms, as was explained to me by Jason Rose, the Product Manager for this product, M95 doesn't have all the "Bells and Whistles" that M105 offers and won't finish out as nice as M105.

M105 is a top shelf compound while M95 is targeted at a more traditional demographic group of people in the body shop industry that are used to and want a brown compound at a lower price point than the M105.

I don't know the specific reasons that M95 is only recommended for use by rotary buffer but normally, if a product is only recommended for use with a rotary buffer it's usually for one or both of these reasons,


1. Other methods of application won't effectively work the abrasives in the product. If this is the case with M95 then it probably has to do with the DAT, or Diminishing Abrasive Technology, and not the SMAT, Super Micro-Abrasive Technology as other SMAT products can be applied by multiple different types of tools and by hand.


2. It won't finish out to an acceptable visual appearance level. An example is that #1, #2 and #4 Cleaners in the Meguiar's Professional Line used to state on the back label that they could be applied via Hand, after clear coats became normal procedure in the refinishing world, it became an issue when people used them by hand on clear coats as the human hand could not effectively work the style of diminishing abrasives found in these products, [at that time], on clear coats without leaving the paint looking scratched and scoured, so the directions were changed.


M95 is a product formulated for and targeted at the Refinishing Industry
That is, M95 is for use in body shops on fresh paint. "Enthusiasts" and "Detailers" can still purchase them via different modes of distribution, (like Autogeek.net), but may not be aware of this little detail about the product.


A good practice is to always do a Test Spot whenever you're working with products your unfamiliar with and/or on paint you're unfamiliar with and check your results before going over the entire car.

Just to note, while it's nice to use compounds that finish out to LSP ready, or almost LSP ready, if you use a compound that doesn't finish out to a high level of quality, that's not really a problem if you plan on doing a secondary polishing step and your secondary polishing step removes any defects left by the compound and leaves a finish that meets your expectations for that step and product.


:)

[slickooz]

Thanks Mike! I'm going try M95 on my dad's beater car then finish with 205 and see how it goes. I just don't want to waste a whole gallon of M95.

[Mike Phillips]

then finish with 205



Might take something a little more aggressive than M205 to follow-up M95, be sure to do a test spot and check your results.


:)

[slickooz]

Thanks Mike, I thought people used 105/205 for corrections. Isn't the cut on 95 similar to 105?

[Mike Phillips]

Thanks Mike, I thought people used 105/205 for corrections. Isn't the cut on 95 similar to 105?

If you look up a ways you can see where I posted that M95 doesn't always finish out as nice as M105...

Here's the quote...



M95 uses both SMAT and DAT, in simple terms, as was explained to me by Jason Rose, the Product Manager for this product, M95 doesn't have all the "Bells and Whistles" that M105 offers and won't finish out as nice as M105.

M105 is a top shelf compound while M95 is targeted at a more traditional demographic group of people in the body shop industry that are used to and want a brown compound at a lower price point than the M105.




It might? That's where the Test Spot comes into play...

You can adjust the aggressiveness or non-aggressiveness of any product by changing the pad, the tool, the technique...

Use your Test Spot to test your pad, tool and technique and then check your results before buffing out the entire car, that way you'll know what the results over the entire car will be, or should be, before you buff out the entire car.

M205 is a very light cleaner/polish, it will work easiest if the finish is already in nice condition with only shallow defects to remove, (shallow defects could be the defects left by the previous process).

If M95 is leaving deeper defects than M105 would have left, then removing them with M205 might be more of a challenge.

Test first...


:xyxthumbs:

[slickooz]

If you look up a ways you can see where I posted that M95 doesn't always finish out as nice as M105...

Here's the quote...




It might? That's where the Test Spot comes into play...

You can adjust the aggressiveness or non-aggressiveness of any product by changing the pad, the tool, the technique...

Use your Test Spot to test your pad, tool and technique and then check your results before buffing out the entire car, that way you'll know what the results over the entire car will be, or should be, before you buff out the entire car.

M205 is a very light cleaner/polish, it will work easiest if the finish is already in nice condition with only shallow defects to remove, (shallow defects could be the defects left by the previous process).

If M95 is leaving deeper defects than M105 would have left, then removing them with M205 might be more of a challenge.

Test first...


:xyxthumbs:


Thanks Mike! Going do a free detailing for a friend tomorrow. Will post write up and pics.