Rotary Boo-Boo's and Chip Filling

[Totoland Mach]

I thought I'd post a couple of rotary mistakes for Auto Geeker's and some of the chip filling tools I use on BMW's.

1st Mistake: Did not use a paint guage on the edge and it was thin. Plus, I mis-used the rotary by polishing from the high spot on the hood and swept down to the recess...big no-no. The owner showed me that the best way is polish the flat on the high edge, then start from another direction and work up to the high edge.

http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o212/Totoland/BMWX5_ThinPaintOnEdge.jpg

2nd Mistake: Tried to polish the lower edge of the trunk lid and the rotary backing plate caught the plastic bumper cover...melted faster than I could react.

http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o212/Totoland/BMWX5_RotaryBurnRearBumper.jpg

On to filling chips. The tools I use are: used syringes (I'm diabetic and have a never-ending supply), touch up paint, an edged rubber squeege. I apply a small amount of touch up with the syringe, squeege the excess to fill the chip and let it sit for 5 minutes. Then, I have a solution of solvent + linseed oil and gently remove the smear. If the chip is deep enough, I keep adding until the chip is filled to the max.

Tools:
http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o212/Totoland/BMWX5_ChipFillingTools.jpg

Here you can see the smeared portion that must be removed with the solution. Doesn't take much effort, only good lighting and time.

http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o212/Totoland/BMWX5_ChipFilled.jpg

Toto

[justin_murphy]

Wow. Now you have officially scared me!
What now Toto?
Hows it getting fixed?

[Totoland Mach]

Wow. Now you have officially scared me!
What now Toto?
Hows it getting fixed?

Justin: it's just the hazards of doing this type of work. The thin spot on the hood is going to be airbrushed with color + clear by a contractor. The shop owner understands totally.

The rear bumper will probably go un-fixed as it's pretty small (about 1/2 size of your fingernail)...not a biggie on a used vehicle.

The memories will remain in my gray matter for the next car (which I taped tonight).

Toto

[The Edge]

"2nd Mistake: Tried to polish the lower edge of the trunk lid and the rotary backing plate caught the plastic bumper cover...melted faster than I could react."

ummmmm...... Edge2000 pads? No backing plate! People just don't realize how dangerous backing plates are. There are other situations where the pad will fly off the backing because the velcro delaminated prematurely and you go at the paint with just the WHOLE PLATE!! Your situation is one of the key reasons we created the E2K system. The other is perfect centering.

[justin_murphy]

"2nd Mistake: Tried to polish the lower edge of the trunk lid and the rotary backing plate caught the plastic bumper cover...melted faster than I could react."

ummmmm...... Edge2000 pads? No backing plate! People just don't realize how dangerous backing plates are. There are other situations where the pad will fly off the backing because the velcro delaminated prematurely and you go at the paint with just the WHOLE PLATE!! Your situation is one of the key reasons we created the E2K system. The other is perfect centering.

Here more and more backing plate issues everyday. More than anyother polisher problem. This is why I will always stick with my EDGE2K pads. Full protection all the way around.

[Nica]

:eek: wow that is scary, there is no way I'm using a rotary on my any of my vehicles. It's cool how the shop owner does not freak out, but mind you mistakes are bound to happen and it's not like it can't be fished. Like you said it just takes time and patience.

Thank you for posting these little incidents...oh and don't worry I still think you :righton:

[ScottB]

there are far to many posts lately that are moving novice detailers to rotaries with claims of immediate repair and swirl remover. I thank you for taking the time to honestly show what can happen. This is why for a novice, paint care is usually best left to PC or Cyclo.

Moving to rotary can be rewarding, but patience and preserverance must be primary.

[Totoland Mach]

there are far to many posts lately that are moving novice detailers to rotaries with claims of immediate repair and swirl remover. I thank you for taking the time to honestly show what can happen. This is why for a novice, paint care is usually best left to PC or Cyclo.

Moving to rotary can be rewarding, but patience and preserverance must be primary.

1000% correct Killrwheels! I've used a pc and Cyclo for years without problems both for my own vehicles and driveway detailing. They do a fantastic job..no doubt about it.

I would never have considered a rotary without someone teaching me and still mishaps can happen. In fact, I still use the pc for hard-to-reach areas because it does a good, safe job.

Thanks for posting that. Hopefully, I won't have to post any more pics of Rotary Boo-Boo's....that can get expensive LOL.

Toto

[Russecu]

Great post Toto!! Like Killr said "patience" I think is a big one. A PC/Cyclo take patience and they will eventually do the work of most jobs. I found that I was not patient enough when working with my PC at first. Then I took my time on my second car and it turned out great.

[Truls]

Pic nr 2, jepp happend to me too, melts f.a.s.t. Even guys that have been in the detailing busines for many years, still makes mistakes sometimes, but they know how to hide/fix them fast, like airbrush, sanding etc.

In Norway its almost easyer to get a Rotary than a DA machine, its nothing simular to the PC here (only Cyclo clones), so i hope Porter Cable some day makes a machine for the European market. I have to use mine with a power adapter, that works fine, but it costs (total 300-400 usd) A rotary you can get for 50 usd (cheapest one) And that one with crappy pads is........no good.

The filler jobb you did, was a great tip, that is a huge problem here in the winter time when they use sand/salt when its icy roads, some cars looks like they have been shot at with a shot gun after the winter.

[Gary Sword]

I have a lot of experience using a rotary to buff out cultured marble which is made using marble dust and resin. I am reluctant to even try it on any of my cars. The speed of the rotary creates so much heat and friction it's very easy to burn what ever surface your working on including the paint on your car. Also you got to be really carefull when you are working on a flat surface close to a suface that is starts to curve up. The edge of the pad will really dig in and leave some nice marks. If a rotary can take out deep scraches in cultured marble I'm sure it can take your clear coat off in no time if your not careful. Unlike a PC you better hold on tight and keep it nice and flat on the surface. I think it's good advice that unexperience detailers keep away from a rotary. It anybody has some cars they want be to experiment on, just let me know.

[YankeeFan]

I thought I'd post a couple of rotary mistakes for Auto Geeker's and some of the chip filling tools I use on BMW's.

On to filling chips. The tools I use are: used syringes (I'm diabetic and have a never-ending supply), touch up paint, an edged rubber squeege. I apply a small amount of touch up with the syringe, squeege the excess to fill the chip and let it sit for 5 minutes. Then, I have a solution of solvent + linseed oil and gently remove the smear. If the chip is deep enough, I keep adding until the chip is filled to the max.

Tools:
http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o212/Totoland/BMWX5_ChipFillingTools.jpg

Here you can see the smeared portion that must be removed with the solution. Doesn't take much effort, only good lighting and time.

http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o212/Totoland/BMWX5_ChipFilled.jpg

Toto

I have some questions as I had a little accident this evening. When I read your description sounds like you are overfilling the chip to allow you to smear the paint. Is that correct? Next, can you give me a specific solvent to use with the linseed oil? What is the mixture ratio? What is the rubber squeege, where would I get one? Lowe's or Home Depot paint section? Lastly if you refill the chip do you wait a day or so, or while till wet?

Thanks,
Howard

[Totoland Mach]

Howard: I don't know that chemical "mix" of the Linseed Oil for excess removal, but I'll find out. The rubber squeege is from an auto paint store and has a tapered edge. It's used for body filler applications and is very inexpensive.

I am trying another method of chip filling: I got some samples of these applicators along with clear coat + hardener that is mixed 2:1. The applicators are very small and you apply the base color, allow to dry (15 minutes or so), then apply the clear coat mix and allow to dry. This eliminates using the squeege and the Linseed Oil mix because you aren't smearing the touch up to fill the chip depression.

I'll post some "how-to" pics this weekend.

http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o212/Totoland/MicroFiberDetailBrushesPlusClear.jpg

PM me if you want a link to the applicators. They are $7.95 for 40 applicators and I tried cleaning my sample with success.

Toto

[Truls]

Looking forward for that how too Toto, AND this should be a STICKY post.

[Nica]

Looking forward for that how too Toto, AND this should be a STICKY post.

:iagree: Looking forward on reading it. Even though it's probably over my head at the moment but the more knowledge I have the better off I will be.

Thanks for posting Toto