Headlight restoration- How do you guys make it look so easy?

[Rhudeboye]

Perhaps this detailing business isn't for me. It takes me days to get a finished paint correction that I'm proud of. I have tried corrections using the same stuff you guys use and following the videos to a "T". The car looks better but it never looks like I want it. Its never "video worthy".

So Ive been reading these headlight restoration threads with great interest. I purchased a Turtle wax kit and followed the directions on one lens. The end result was nowhere near a clear lens.

I then purchased 600 grit sand paper and wet sanded doing the step up system to 1200. I already had 800, 1000 and 1200. I have posted some pics of before and after.

Before
http://img375.imageshack.us/img375/8075/img0290iq.jpg (http://img375.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img0290iq.jpg)
http://img23.imageshack.us/img23/907/img0291m.jpg (http://img23.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img0291m.jpg)

Products used
http://img143.imageshack.us/img143/1972/img0292rh.jpg (http://img143.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img0292rh.jpg)
http://img64.imageshack.us/img64/418/img0293wj.jpg (http://img64.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img0293wj.jpg)

After Sanding with all sand paper and hitting it with the Megs UC
http://img823.imageshack.us/img823/8568/img0296u.jpg (http://img823.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img0296u.jpg)
http://img828.imageshack.us/img828/7053/img0297b.jpg (http://img828.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img0297b.jpg)

Went back over w/ org pad and Turtle wax clarifying solution using flex and org pad
http://img130.imageshack.us/img130/9194/img0301z.jpg (http://img130.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img0301z.jpg)

As you can see in the pic, they are not clear. I know they look better then the before pic but if not for these pics I would be even more frustrated as I spent 45 minutes buffing and sanding only to get, what appeared at the time, to be no results.

[Mazda.Mark]

im awful at these too so it wouldbe interesting to hear diferent methods:)

[DaHen]

Had used a rubbing compound in the past and didn't get very good results as well. Got good results by using 3M's Headlight Lens Restoration System.
Took over two and a half hours on my two headlights. (Did use the slower speed on the drill.)
Didn't see any progress as I worked through the finer sandpapers. Then when I wiped 3M's rubbing compound off, I saw how much more clearer the headlight lens were.

[Rhudeboye]

Thanks Hen

that is encouraging. Had no idea it took that long. I dont think I ever read how long a restore took on this forum. I assumed it was like 20 minutes.

[DaHen]

And these headlights were in bad shape. Wished I had taken before and after photos.

[Joe in PA]

Stopping the wet sanding at 1200 grit may be the reason for your issues. I am not positive but don't believe that ultimate compound is capable of removing 1200 grit sanding marks. I like to go down to at least 2000, if not 3000, before starting the buffing with UC, followed by M205 and finally plastix. The headlights rarely look "good" until the final step.

[jcarson112]

My process starts with 800 (if they are really bad) then goes 1500, 2000,3000. Follow with menz compound and then SIP.

Stopping at 1200 is definitely one of your issues.

[Alowes2837]

I just used 1000 grit wet and dry then 1500 grit with plenty of water then polished with a menzerna polish, sorry can't remember which one but wasn't a harsh one. These only took about 10 mins each, not 100% perfect but fine for a ten min restoration.7120

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[STi05']

Dont forget to protect them with a UV blocking product after your done. I have used Rejex for the past few months on my car that I polished the headlights on and they are still crystal clear. I used the same method as Alowes2837. 1000-1500-Menzerna intensive polish with my Flex rotary and a 4" orange polishing pad on the slowest setting.

[ObsessiveAutoDetail]

Ya... I was gonna add using a rotary with a four inch pad as well...

[Lasthope05]

http://img130.imageshack.us/img130/9194/img0301z.jpg

Your problem is you are not spending enough time properly sanding down the coating and refining the sanding scratches. In the pic above the factory coating that has failed is still not fully removed and there are still deep sanding scratches.

Use your 600 grit until all of the damaged coating is removed a then step up. When you do step up make sure you cross hatch(600grit horizontal - 800grit vertical - 1000grit horizontal..etc) the previous sanding scratches so you can see when you've fully removed the previous grit scratches.

UC is fine to use with 1200grit but if you have stronger compounds it use them. Plastic is a lot softer then paint and is much easier to correct.

However, wetsanding and polishing is just temporary solutions that will require upkeep. Months down the road they will begin to yellow again and will require polishing again. I find the best solution is actual refinishing by sanding with 800grit and applying a 2k automotive clear.

[STi05']

Yeah you have to make sure you get down to the bottom of the defect in your first sanding step. Its all about taking your time and making sure you complete each step. Don't get scared and think "ahhh it looks worse!!!" and just rush through. You will end up needing to re-do them.

I have heard about clear coating them but I'm not sold on that just yet.. Im waiting to see if using my Rejex is enough. I would just rather not deal with having to remove and clear them.

The 3M kit has also been a good option in the past for me.

[Rhudeboye]

I like to go down to at least 2000, if not 3000, before starting the buffing with UC, followed by M205 and finally plastix. The headlights rarely look "good" until the final step.

I wasnt sure about how they should look before moving to the next step. So that's good to hear. Is the final step using the UC? or is it the plastix. If its plastix then how do you know your not sealing a unfinished lens?


These only took about 10 mins each, not 100% perfect but fine for a ten min restoration.7120

7121
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I hate you:joking:


Your problem is you are not spending enough time properly sanding down the coating and refining the sanding scratches. In the pic above the factory coating that has failed is still not fully removed and there are still deep sanding scratches.

Use your 600 grit until all of the damaged coating is removed a then step up. When you do step up make sure you cross hatch(600grit horizontal - 800grit vertical - 1000grit horizontal..etc) the previous sanding scratches so you can see when you've fully removed the previous grit scratches.

UC is fine to use with 1200grit but if you have stronger compounds it use them. Plastic is a lot softer then paint and is much easier to correct.

Man, your right. The film is still there and I can feel it. Its not smooth. So back to the sanding Ill go. I also wasn't cross hatching. Im still not sure what to look for as a sign as to when I'm done? :thankyousign:

[DaHen]

Some people have been known to remove the headlight assembly from the vehicle and put them on a work bench then attack them.

Think thats a bit to extreme. Most of these modern headlights are not easily removed.

[jimmyjam]

My process starts with 800 (if they are really bad) then goes 1500, 2000,3000. Follow with menz compound and then SIP.

Stopping at 1200 is definitely one of your issues.
:iagree: I just did an Nissan Altima that had scale like layers, and I started with 2000 then 3000 allowing water to flow while sanding in all steps. I have the Diamonite plastic kit with a De Walt cordless at 1700rpm.