Intro/Lots of questions

[jlindahl2571]

Hello guys, I've done a lot of reading on these boards, watched a bunch of videos, and such and I'm looking to really give my car it's first full detail/winterize the car as I'm from MA and it'll be seeing snow, salt, etc.

I know everyone loves pictures so here's my car after a simple wash.
http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab16/jlindahl2571/firebird%20shoot/firebirdshoot006.jpg
http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab16/jlindahl2571/firebird%20shoot/firebirdshoot019.jpg
http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab16/jlindahl2571/firebird%20shoot/firebirdshoot018.jpg
http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab16/jlindahl2571/firebird%20shoot/firebirdshoot021.jpg

I'm basically looking for a complete run through on what I should do. I'd say the paint is in good condition and there aren't many swirl marks and such. It seems as though I'd go with a wash, then clay, then wash, then a pre wax cleaner, then sealant, then wax? I'm going to be doing all of this by hand so I don't want to go too crazy on the products.

I have the steps to washing and clay baring down, but I'm not so sure on the waxing and sealing. I guess you have to wipe on a thin layer of sealant, let it dry for about 10-20 mins, and then let it cure for about 10-12 hours? Then you wax the next day? Would you have to wash it again before you waxed it? And do you have to let the wax dry and cure the same way as the sealant? Sorry for all the questions I just don't want to go out there and seal/wax my car and have it be a waste of time.

Another problem is that it seems as though these are best done in a garage or in the shade, which I really don't have access to either..so will the products still be as effective if I do it outside in the sun?

Also, on my left rear quarter panel, the clear coat appears to be withering away. It's tough to tell if this is really the case but that's how it feels. It's really small, but my concern is should I just clay/seal/wax right over this? I'm guessing I shouldn't clay it but sealing it and waxing it would be good. But are there any other things I can do to protect the clear coat and such?

Next set of questions is the actual products themselves. I noticed that everyone loves wolfgang, especially the deep gloss sealant 3.0 but I'm not sure I want to dish out $40 on my first sealant/wax job. I mean if it's that much easier to use and is really that much better I guess I'll go for it, but I'm not a professional detailer.

Then there are the mother's products I was looking at. The california gold 3 step line caught my eye Mothers California Gold Pre-Wax Cleaner prepares the vehicle's paint for wax, glaze, or sealer by cleaning out impurities and smoothing the top layer (http://www.autogeek.net/motcalgolpre.html) as it's much cheaper and such. But does the $10 price tag on each step mean that I'm cheaping out?

Then there's Klasse, which everyone seems to like as well and looks like it's in the middle ground price wise between these two options.

I'm basically looking for you to tell me everything I need to know and what I should buy as I'm a little lost as you can see. Thanks guys.

[Scott DeBrun]

Welcome to AG. If you are looking for products you can use in the sun then checkout the PoorBoys line of detailing products. There are very few products you can use in the sun so make sure you read the decriptions and application guides before you buy the product. Clay,cleaner wax, sealant and waxing is a good process and it is best to let the sealant cure overnight. I have used Poorboys sealant and then waxed over it with no problems but I'm sure I should have waited. My favorite PoorBoys sealant is EX it has a little carnauba in it to help that wet look after waxing. Natty wax is a very good wax for the price and it can be used in the sun just make sure you do one panel at a time. I'll have to defer to more experienced folks about the clearcoat issue. Again welcome to AG it's a great forum to learn and ask questions.:welcome:

[Mike Phillips]

Welcome to Autogeek Online!


:welcome:


I haven't read all the text of your first post but I will have I hit the submit button on my reply... before I do... here's an article I wrote about "lots of questions"


A tip to help yourself get great answers when you start a thread (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/tips-techniques-how-articles-interacting-discussion-forums/29344-tip-help-yourself-get-great-answers-when-you-start-thread.html)



:xyxthumbs:

[Mike Phillips]

See how I used the quote feature to break up "most" of your questions... a lot of people will read your thread and because it's so heavy with questions just click away...

Start with 2, 3, even 4 questions and it makes it easier for others to chime in and then you get the benefit.

This is true for ANY forum anyone joins and participates in...

Just a for what it's worth... :props:


Now on to your questions...



I'm going to be doing all of this by hand so I don't want to go too crazy on the products.


Good idea,

KISS = Keep it Simple Simon




I have the steps to washing and clay baring down, but I'm not so sure on the waxing and sealing.


A few videos here... including one on claying... (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/show-car-garage-how-videos/26575-video-list-autogeek-s-show-car-garage-videos-mike-phillips.html)



I guess you have to wipe on a thin layer of sealant, let it dry for about 10-20 mins, and then let it cure for about 10-12 hours?


Apply a thin coat, work in well. Some products are Wipe-on, Wipe-off, others state they need to dry, so make sure you read the manufactures directions.

If it's drying wax, then after it dries you remove it and in a perfect world you don't "disturb" the coating as it will continue to fully set-up in a "Window of Time" for about 12ish hours. This is just a good practice.




Then you wax the next day? Would you have to wash it again before you waxed it? And do you have to let the wax dry and cure the same way as the sealant?


After you apply a paint sealant you're done. As an option, some people like to apply a wax over their sealant to maximize the beauty and add a little more protection but you don't have to do this.




Sorry for all the questions I just don't want to go out there and seal/wax my car and have it be a waste of time.


No problemo, everyone here will do their best to see you through to success in your garage... kind of a mission statement for this forum community. Simple but effective as proven since I've been involved in online detailing discussion forums.




Another problem is that it seems as though these are best done in a garage or in the shade, which I really don't have access to either..so will the products still be as effective if I do it outside in the sun?


Work in the cool of the morning, borrow some shade from a nearby building.

From my article list...

Tips for working in warm/hot weather or direct sunlight (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/tips-techniques-how-articles-interacting-discussion-forums/26961-tips-working-warm-hot-weather-direct-sunlight.html)





Also, on my left rear quarter panel, the clear coat appears to be withering away. It's tough to tell if this is really the case but that's how it feels.


Clearcoat failure is common and there's nothing that can be done to undo the damage or reverse it except to start taking care of the good paint you still have left.




It's really small, but my concern is should I just clay/seal/wax right over this? I'm guessing I shouldn't clay it but sealing it and waxing it would be good. But are there any other things I can do to protect the clear coat and such?


Not much you can do, see above answer... and these two threads...

Beginning Clearcoat Failure (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/hot-topics-frequently-asked-questions/29197-beginning-clearcoat-failure.html)

The Clearcoat Failure Photo Gallery Archive (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/rough-draft/19985-clearcoat-failure-photo-gallery-archive.html)





I'm basically looking for you to tell me everything I need to know and what I should buy as I'm a little lost as you can see. Thanks guys.


Lots of articles and videos here,

How-To Videos (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/show-car-garage-how-videos/26575-video-list-autogeek-s-show-car-garage-videos-mike-phillips.html)
How-To Articles (http://tinyurl.com/y9gcarg)


Check these out for working by hand...


Polishing Paint by Hand

How to use a hand applied abrasive polish or paint cleaner by hand (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/how-articles/26612-how-use-hand-applied-abrasive-polish-paint-cleaner-hand.html)

How To Remove Paint Transfer (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/how-articles/28170-how-remove-paint-transfer.html)

How to remove water spots by hand (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/how-articles/29134-how-remove-water-spots-hand.html)

How to clay, clean and wax paint by hand with Pinnacle Paintwork Cleansing Lotion and Pinnacle Signature Series II Carnauba Paste Wax (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/how-articles/25218-how-clay-clean-wax-paint-hand-pinnacle-signature-series-ii.html)

1-Step versus 3-Step Process by Hand (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/hot-topics-frequently-asked-questions/20573-1-step-vs-3-step-process-hand.html)

Man versus Machine (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/faq/20257-man-versus-machine.html)


:)

[Scott DeBrun]

Mike my dad never used the name Simon in the KISS method...hhhmmm:confused:

[jlindahl2571]

Thanks a lot Mike, I'll definitely do some more reading and watching some more videos.

Any input on the products?

[Mike Phillips]

Mike my dad never used the name Simon in the KISS method...hhhmmm:confused:

I prefer not to use the word stupid and Simple Simon is a recognized term that means the same idea...


Been typing that for years now...


To each their own...


:xyxthumbs:

[Mike Phillips]

Any input on the products?


When working by hand, the Mother's 3-Step system is a time-proven winner...

Removing swirls is difficult when working by hand, it can be done but clear coat paints are hard and you'll spend a lot of time doing the "correction" step by hand.

Simply doing the Mothers 3-step system won't remove all the swirls but it will go a long way to mask the fine swirls and create a very nice looking finish for working by hand.





Then there are the mother's products I was looking at. The california gold 3 step line caught my eye Mothers California Gold Pre-Wax Cleaner prepares the vehicle's paint for wax, glaze, or sealer by cleaning out impurities and smoothing the top layer (http://www.autogeek.net/motcalgolpre.html) as it's much cheaper and such.




I'm sure others will chime in with their thoughts...


:)

[Scott DeBrun]

Just a joke Mike.

[jlindahl2571]

Ok so I've done some reading on the poorboy's line..seems like what I'm going to go with, but I'm just not sure what to buy. They have so many different waxes, sealants, combos, all in ones, etc.

As you said Scott it, EX sealant w/ carnauba seemed good, but then I see their polish with sealant, polish with 100% carnauba, and plain old professional polish.

So..are all in one's like polish with sealant any good or should I get the professional polish, sealant, and wax all separately? I know the pros to the all in one, is it's only one step but I don't want to skimp on quality so much if that's the case.

And if I were to get 3 separate things, which 3 would you recommend?

And does polish = pre wax cleaner? I noticed that they don't really seem to have a pre wax labeled product, but some of their stuff (polish with 100% carnauba) claims to do the same thing.

Thanks again.

[Scott DeBrun]

I have used the Natty's white wax and the EX and EX-P sealants and they are all excellent. I would suggest a pre wax and polish before using the Nattys white. The wax is the topper and I'm sorry I can't recommend more but I can only speak for the products I have tried. The PBs car shampoo wash and wax is awesome as well.

[jlindahl2571]

Ok, what is the difference between the white, blue, and red waxes? I read through some of them but couldn't really find a difference.

[Scott DeBrun]

According to PB's site the different colored waxes were created for different color cars. I used the white on my candy apple red metallic paint and it looked great. Maybe someone who has used the blue or red can chime in and give you their opinions on them.