Can't Touch This

[pfix]

My new GG polisher and HT low profile pads arrived yesterday so I decided to get a start on the old hunting truck this afternoon. Washed it up good and then clayed the paint and got some really nasty dirt off of the paint.

The paint felt totally smooth to the touch but the baggy revealed that the paint still felt like sand paper. I used PB clay with ONR for the lube.

I worked one half of the hood until my arm was ready to fall off with minimal improvement. The PB clay just wont pull the crap off the paint.

Is Clay Magic more aggressive than the PB clay? I can buy it locally but I don't want to spend the money if it is not going to be an improvement over the PB clay. Do body shop supply stores carry a more aggressive clay?

The truck has been out in the weather for the last 10 years and has never been clayed.

[snowking724]

Check to see which Clay Magic clay they have. There's different grades of clay.

[pfix]

#88256 Clay Magic® - The Perfect Finish Kit

Clay Magic Detailing Car Clay Products (http://www.claymagic.net/ClayMagic-Products.htm)

This is the kit I can buy locally.

[aerogt01]

Clay Magic Medium Grade should compare to the PB clay you were using. There are aggressive clays, but those tend to leave micro-marring on paint surfaces. Unless you are prepared to remove this, I wouldn't try an aggressive clay.

Don't fret! If the contamination is bad enough it will take a lot of effort to remove. I have used 100g of clay doing just the sides of an SUV, and it took me 3 hrs. I can only imagine what you have to deal with. However, the results of claying are always worth it. The paint will look better, and wax will last longer.

[pfix]

Clay Magic Medium Grade should compare to the PB clay you were using. There are aggressive clays, but those tend to leave micro-marring on paint surfaces. Unless you are prepared to remove this, I wouldn't try an aggressive clay.

Don't fret! If the contamination is bad enough it will take a lot of effort to remove. I have used 100g of clay doing just the sides of an SUV, and it took me 3 hrs. I can only imagine what you have to deal with. However, the results of claying are always worth it. The paint will look better, and wax will last longer.

I am getting ready to buff the entire truck. I am not worried about the micro marring. It will be gone when I am done.

[snowking724]

I would search around for some aggressive clay. Not sure where it stacks up, but the DP clay works great for me. If you want something else try the Meg's aggressive clay.

[aerogt01]

When you say buff:
What products do you plan on using?
What kind of 'buffer' do you have?
- Rotary
- Dual-Action
- Orbital

The reason I ask is you will need at least a dual action polisher with foam pads and a medium-cut polish to remove any marring caused by aggressive clay. A Sears orbital (a.k.a. wax spreader) won't do it. I prefer to spend more time claying than add an extra polishing step.

That being said, Meguiar's makes an aggressive clay available here:
Meguiars Professional Detailing Clay Aggressive (http://www.autogeek.net/meprdeclag.html)
Most likely your local store will only carry the medium and fine grades of Clay Magic, which are not as aggressive as this.

EDIT: Just read you other post about buying a DA and pads. Welcome to a healthy addiction! ;)

[pfix]

I would search around for some aggressive clay. Not sure where it stacks up, but the DP clay works great for me. If you want something else try the Meg's aggressive clay.

I will make a stop at the local auto parts store that caters to the body shops and see if they have anything that would help.

[pfix]

When you say buff:
What products do you plan on using?
What kind of 'buffer' do you have?
- Rotary
- Dual-Action
- Orbital

The reason I ask is you will need at least a dual action polisher with foam pads and a medium-cut polish to remove any marring caused by aggressive clay. A Sears orbital (a.k.a. wax spreader) won't do it. I prefer to spend more time claying than add an extra polishing step.

That being said, Meguiar's makes an aggressive clay available here:
Meguiars Professional Detailing Clay Aggressive (http://www.autogeek.net/meprdeclag.html)
Most likely your local store will only carry the medium and fine grades of Clay Magic, which are not as aggressive as this.

GG DA polisher with 5 1/2" HT low profile pads, Cyan and Tang. Products will be Optimum Spay Compound and Optimum Spray Polish

[aerogt01]

Good choice of products! Good luck with your truck. Be sure to place before/after pics so we can see it!

:)

[feslope]

I would try the regular (Blue) Clay Magic first. I have used several of them and the CM always works best. Clay Magic owns the patent and they are the real deal.

[aerogt01]

The blue is the fine grade. I have used the medium and found it to be similar to Meguiar's mild clay. The OP said the PB regular clay wasn't working for him, which I would also assume to be similar to Meg's mild.

[Kurt_s]

My new GG polisher and HT low profile pads arrived yesterday so I decided to get a start on the old hunting truck this afternoon. Washed it up good and then clayed the paint and got some really nasty dirt off of the paint.

The paint felt totally smooth to the touch but the baggy revealed that the paint still felt like sand paper. I used PB clay with ONR for the lube.

I worked one half of the hood until my arm was ready to fall off with minimal improvement. The PB clay just wont pull the crap off the paint.

Is Clay Magic more aggressive than the PB clay? I can buy it locally but I don't want to spend the money if it is not going to be an improvement over the PB clay. Do body shop supply stores carry a more aggressive clay?

The truck has been out in the weather for the last 10 years and has never been clayed.

If I can offer a suggestion.

If you are having problems with clay, try a little mineral spirits, and wipe down a small section before you get heavy with the aggressive clay. One of the guys got something on his Vette recently and clay wouldn't touch it. IPA wouldn't touch it but MS took it off quickly. If you have heavy sap on your paint, IPA may dissolve it while clay may take you forever.

I've found that I am better off using a bug and tar remover before clay if I have tar on the paint. I check around the lower body panels before claying.

If the MS doesn't help, then move onto the more aggressive clay. If it does help, you may save yourself some marred paint and a few hours of work.

[feslope]

The blue is the fine grade. I have used the medium and found it to be similar to Meguiar's mild clay. The OP said the PB regular clay wasn't working for him, which I would also assume to be similar to Meg's mild.I don't assume anything. I deal with what I know works. We should always try to use the least aggressive product that works. In this case stickier might work better than more abrasive. :xyxthumbs:

[pfix]

If I can offer a suggestion.

If you are having problems with clay, try a little mineral spirits, and wipe down a small section before you get heavy with the aggressive clay. One of the guys got something on his Vette recently and clay wouldn't touch it. IPA wouldn't touch it but MS took it off quickly. If you have heavy sap on your paint, IPA may dissolve it while clay may take you forever.

I've found that I am better off using a bug and tar remover before clay if I have tar on the paint. I check around the lower body panels before claying.

If the MS doesn't help, then move onto the more aggressive clay. If it does help, you may save yourself some marred paint and a few hours of work.

Thanks Kurt. I will try the mineral spirits first since it is about 1/2 the cost of the Clay Magic Kit or a more aggressive clay if I can source it locally.

If I cant remove the contaminants from the paint entirely, will they abrade my pads or is there a concern that the contaminant particles will dislodge during the polishing process and scratch the paint?