How to Remove Hair line scratches on Wood Trim?

[jpol908]

Try a good polish as discussed above and top with this RENAISSANCE Microcrystalline WAX POLISH (http://www.woodfinishsupply.com/RenWax.html)

It has worked wonders on my custom knives and other woodworking restoration.

[benzer77]

Update and I am excited!!! This new SMAT Scratch X is amazing. The old one did hardly nothing and this new formula is quite different.

But, WOW! This hand working takes a lot of time and patience. But considering my hand RPM versus a machine, it all makes sense. For the Pros to charge accordingly this would be a costly process with small area results.

I noticed it took many applications and talk about working small areas. I noticed two inches by two is all the larger I could go to feel effective and smaller than that was better. I got my best results with fast movements and a lot of pressure with a sponge applicator.

I still need to work on reducing haze if I can. Maybe a little more time with 205??? Or M21??? Some more experimenting to go but wanted to show this is coming along nicely.

After Scratch X 2.0
http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/picture.php?albumid=131&pictureid=737

After 205
http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/picture.php?albumid=131&pictureid=738


Wow, good job.

[WestEnd]

Wow, good job.

Sorry Benzer, I didn't mean to steal your thread but you got me all excited to give this a try. :props:

Thanks everyone. Now that it's cleaned up I will keep trying Different LSPs to see what works best.


Very impressive. How long did this 2" section take between the SwirlX and 205?

That one spot was time consuming with all of the trial and errors. Overall I spent about an hour and a half on that little section.

I finished the rest of it today with the same process and I got it done in three hours, plus lunch break. :) I stayed somewhat cautious on RIDS, etc since I didn't know the thickness of the clear.

Here is one reflection, my bike out the window hanging from the ceiling. Couldn't get both the bike and buttons in focus, so of course I went for the bike.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/picture.php?albumid=131&pictureid=740

[Kurt_s]

Sorry Benzer, I didn't mean to steal your thread but you got me all excited to give this a try. :props:

Thanks everyone. Now that it's cleaned up I will keep trying Different LSPs to see what works best.



That one spot was time consuming with all of the trial and errors. Overall I spent about an hour and a half on that little section.

I finished the rest of it today with the same process and I got it done in three hours, plus lunch break. :) I stayed somewhat cautious on RIDS, etc since I didn't know the thickness of the clear.

Here is one reflection, my bike out the window hanging from the ceiling. Couldn't get both the bike and buttons in focus, so of course I went for the bike.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/picture.php?albumid=131&pictureid=740

Very nice! Now I know how long to to allot for my letter project.

[dougaross]

2008 Audi with Gray Birch wood trim and lots of fine scratches. I used my Polishing Pal with Novus #2 Fine Scratch Remover on a white pad followed by 205 on white pad, followed by 205 on gray pad and finally by KAIO on gray pad.

[WestEnd]

2008 Audi with Gray Birch wood trim and lots of fine scratches. I used my Polishing Pal with Novus #2 Fine Scratch Remover on a white pad followed by 205 on white pad, followed by 205 on gray pad and finally by KAIO on gray pad.

I was thinking about a polishing pal but don't have one. I bet that would be useful. Do you have some pics, would like to see that.

Curious, do you still get a little haze look when you take pics straight down? I don't on paint but with the wood I still do but it only shows up in the pics. Curious if it is the finish?? It's almost like mine seems to be under the surface where it is a little hazy. Of course it's not bad at all I am just being super critical.

[dougaross]

6771
I'm not quite sure if there is haziness here or not. This actually the first pic I posted. But there were many small scratches (especially above the Quattro) that are not there now.

[WestEnd]

6771
I'm not quite sure if there is haziness here or not. This actually the first pic I posted. But there were many small scratches (especially above the Quattro) that are not there now.

Looks great. yeah, ok, that is the exact same look mine has. I also looked at a brochure and saw the same thing so I am good with it.

[benzer77]

Sorry Benzer, I didn't mean to steal your thread but you got me all excited to give this a try. :props:

Thanks everyone. Now that it's cleaned up I will keep trying Different LSPs to see what works best.



That one spot was time consuming with all of the trial and errors. Overall I spent about an hour and a half on that little section.

I finished the rest of it today with the same process and I got it done in three hours, plus lunch break. :) I stayed somewhat cautious on RIDS, etc since I didn't know the thickness of the clear.

Here is one reflection, my bike out the window hanging from the ceiling. Couldn't get both the bike and buttons in focus, so of course I went for the bike.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/picture.php?albumid=131&pictureid=740
Thanks for trying, looks great!!

[Mike Phillips]

Thanks to everyone that participated in this thread and then went out into their garage and got to work and then shared their before and after pictures plus process and technique.

This type of detailing issue doesn't come up too often as most people are more interested in working on the outside of the car but it does come up and this will be a helpful resource thread moving into the future.

I'm going to add the words "How To" to the title of the thread and move this to the "How To" forum.

Just to ensure the pictures don't disappear if they're hosted on Photobucket, I'll upload them to their perspective owner's galleries here on Autogeek so they don't turn into red x's into the future.

:dblthumb2:

[Mike Phillips]

Update and I am excited!!! This new SMAT Scratch X is amazing. The old one did hardly nothing and this new formula is quite different.

But, WOW! This hand working takes a lot of time and patience. But considering my hand RPM versus a machine, it all makes sense. For the Pros to charge accordingly this would be a costly process with small area results.

I noticed it took many applications and talk about working small areas. I noticed two inches by two is all the larger I could go to feel effective and smaller than that was better. I got my best results with fast movements and a lot of pressure with a sponge applicator.




WestEnd,

After reading the above description of your experience in rubbing out small trim panels like you have inside your car...

Does what I wrote previously in this thread now make more sense sense? See the portion in bold blue




Technique is everything when working by hand...

When it comes to working on small panels like these trim components, the problem is usually having enough room to move your hand back and forth fast in an effort to abrade the surface to remove enough material to level the surface.

If the trim component is out in the open it's not a problem, but as the trim component is surrounded by things like displays, switches, buttons, levers, etc, as these thing get in the way you can't get in there and put some passion behind the pad.




Did what I describe match your experience?


:)

[Mike Phillips]

I've inserted a blue clickable link to the top of the first post of this thread to make it easy for anyone to copy, paste and share this article with others.

I've also added it to a new category at the bottom of my articles list.

How-To Articles (http://tinyurl.com/y9gcarg)


:)

[WestEnd]

Does what I wrote previously in this thread now make more sense sense? See the portion in bold blue

Did what I describe match your experience?


:)

Hey Mike,

Yes, it does make perfect sense and was what I experienced. The tighter areas around the shifter, window buttons, etc. were much harder to correct. I couldn't get the hand movement quick enough with a one finger pressure for what I noticed did the best job. I ended up using more pressure and many more passes to get it where I was satisfied with the result. Eh Hum, much more passion :xyxthumbs: behind it. My foam applicator folded and edged down onto it was the best result.

The process is definitely hands on, if you will, haha. I can't imagine getting a machine in most of the areas, as mentioned in another post, maybe a dremel. But, I couldn't get a drill or DA anywhere near where it would have been more effective than just my hand without causing damage to the leather shifter, buttons, etc.

The space on the vertical panel in front of the shifter was probably the toughest, or maybe we should say required the most creativity, simply due to hand position and narrow working area. I really should have a pic of that position, it probably looked hilarious. I had one knee on the floorboard, facing rearward, reaching across myself... eh! You get the idea. LOL

Variations in hand speed and pressure is definitely the key to getting this done.

[dougaross]

Would a dremel tool with a flex shaft be useful for this purpose?

[Wills.WindowsAndWheels]

Would a dremel tool with a flex shaft be useful for this purpose?


ahhh a flex shaft, now thats a good idea...i think they make those for drills as well...i dont know about if they make a pad small enough for a drill thou....good idea either way :xyxthumbs: