How to Remove Hair line scratches on Wood Trim?

[Mike Phillips]

Hey Mike,

I was wondering since you brought up the subject of 'correctly' doing hand polishing...do you think you could add that to your list of videos :)




That's a good idea and it is on the list...


One thing I've been typing a lot this year is how it takes more skill to remove defects by hand than it does to use a tool like the Porter Cable DA Polisher.

For the most part, if you use the right pad and a quality compound or polish you just can't make a mistake with the DA Polishers on the market, if fact it's so easy for just about anyone to get professional results their very first time with zero experience...

Proof You Can Do It! - Joe The Detailer - Black Porsche Turned into Black Pearl! (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/show-n-shine/25226-proof-you-can-do-joe-detailer-black-porsche-turned-into-black-pearl.html)

Proof the Average Guy can get Professional Results their first time Machine Polishing (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/auto-detailing-101/25198-proof-average-guy-can-get-professional-results-their-first-time-machine-polishing.html)


Not true when it comes to doing the same thing by hand...

So it's on the list...


:)

[Mike Phillips]

Hi Guys,

I have 2 cars, one with black ash wood trim, the second one with dark fake wood. Both have some hair line scratches, and I wonder if there is a way to remove or hide these scratches. Also what do you recommend to clean and maintain Wood trim? polish/wax?

Your thoughts are greatly appreciated!


Let us know how it works out. My wife has the fake wood dash like yours in her Tahoe and it has the same fine scratches. I haven't been able to get em out.


Here is the trim in my Wife's Tahoe

The worst piece is above the glovebox (or at least the sun hits it the best and it is more obvious)

Thanks for taking the picture and attaching it... I tool the liberty to download it and then upload it to the AG Gallery so I can insert it for easier viewing and thus easier discussing...


http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/722/IM002731.jpg



Hi Guys,

I have 2 cars, one with black ash wood trim, the second one with dark fake wood. Both have some hair line scratches, and




benzer77

Does the above picture resemble what you are also working on?

:)

[WestEnd]

Mike, here is what I would like to correct. It's burl walnut. Thanks.


http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/picture.php?albumid=131&pictureid=734

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/picture.php?albumid=131&pictureid=735

[Wills.WindowsAndWheels]

That's a good idea and it is on the list...


One thing I've been typing a lot this year is how it takes more skill to remove defects by hand than it does to use a tool like the Porter Cable DA Polisher.

For the most part, if you use the right pad and a quality compound or polish you just can't make a mistake with the DA Polishers on the market, if fact it's so easy for just about anyone to get professional results their very first time with zero experience...

Proof You Can Do It! - Joe The Detailer - Black Porsche Turned into Black Pearl! (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/show-n-shine/25226-proof-you-can-do-joe-detailer-black-porsche-turned-into-black-pearl.html)

Proof the Average Guy can get Professional Results their first time Machine Polishing (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/auto-detailing-101/25198-proof-average-guy-can-get-professional-results-their-first-time-machine-polishing.html)


Not true when it comes to doing the same thing by hand...

So it's on the list...


:)

Yup I agree...working by hand is rough stuff especially in tight spaces. I dont think im a master at it by any means but im always trying to learn to get better.

I think multiple example of how you hand work different areas ..like a thin but long area such as the strip along a windshield...or maybe a little wider area like a rear view mirror or door handle area would really help shed some light on something Ive seen very little written about let alone VIDEOS done on, so when you do get around to it I hope I don't miss that you put it up...I'm glad its on the list :dblthumb2:


Mike, here is what I would like to correct. It's burl walnut. Thanks.


http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/picture.php?albumid=131&pictureid=734

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/picture.php?albumid=131&pictureid=735


The inside of my friends van has real wood in it...its the Sherod Chevy Express....very nice looking but I'd like to polish out the scratches which are lighter than the ones you show, but very similiar. I guess we were lucky because the previous owners really didnt clean it, EVER lol...so they didnt scratch it up too bad.

Id like to hear some ideas on just general maintenence as well. Our old van was a Starcraft edition GMC and the wood in some areas seems to have faded to a much lighter color that what it started out as years ago...thats Az for you I guess.

I dont know if there are any ways to bring the color back or not, but if it's possible to just maintain what's there now as well as ways to remove the scratches, that would be worth hearing:props:

[Mike Phillips]

Mike, here is what I would like to correct. It's burl walnut. Thanks.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/picture.php?albumid=131&pictureid=735




Wow! That' looks pretty bad, like someone has been cleaning it with a wire brush!


Without having the actual vehicle here to work on, here's the skinny on how to approach something like this...

The Burl Walnut obviously has some type of coating over it, so you're not working on Burl Walnut, you're working on the coating. Since it's clear, it's probably some type of urethane. Just a guess but it's highly unlikely they use the type of lacquer paint used in the furniture industry, so it's probably a high tech coating of some type that can withstand the extreme temperature changes cars and trucks are exposed to causing the components and thus the coating to expand and contract.

Regardless of what the coating is...the way you remove swirls and scratches out of any type of coating or material is to abrade the coating in such a way as to level the upper most surface area with the lowest depths of the defects you're trying to remover.

In other words you're trying to level the surface so that it is perfectly flat, not flat as in matte, but flat as in no below surface imperfections.

You have to variables that bring risk to the equation

1. Is the coating polishable?

2. Do you have enough film-build to safely work with without going through the coating.


I don't have the answer to either of the above questions but if I had the car here in front of me I would practice the basics,


Evaluate the surface - (you already did this)
Choose the right product
Use good technique

If you cannot track down exactly what the coating is and my guess is that's a hard question to be able to find someone from the car company that actually has any helpful information, then what you do is approach it like paint and do two things,


Use the least aggressive product to get the job done
Test your first product of choice on an inconspicuous area and then inspect the results.

If the results look good then continue working the product to the surface of the component.

If the results look bad... you'll be glad you ONLY tested to an inconspicuous area.


As for products, to date when trying to remove scratches out of modern clear coats by hand I've had the best luck using SMAT products, maybe try the new ScratchX wit a clean foam or microfiber applicator pad.

I would definitely be taping off all the surrounding panels and components to avoid getting any product on them and wherever possible I would opt to work by machine.


:)

[WestEnd]

Thanks Mike,

That area is the worst of it, the rest is in pretty good shape. I think with that being the flat part in front of the storage compartment between the seats, it has had a lot of things dragged across it over the years.

You guys could invent/design some sort of 1" or so size pads to fit a drill or dremel to get to these areas. :props:

I am a little apprehensive but, that's all part of the fun right?! These panels can be removed from the car and make it possible to use a machine. Then you risk the possibility of causing larger problems, rids, breaking attachment pins, etc.... Or maybe it's time for a road trip to AG.

I am going to go after it in a test spot as you suggest with new SX. I will report back when I get there.

[benzer77]

Thanks for taking the picture and attaching it... I tool the liberty to download it and then upload it to the AG Gallery so I can insert it for easier viewing and thus easier discussing...


http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/722/IM002731.jpg




benzer77

Does the above picture resemble what you are also working on?

:)

Hi Mike, Thank you for your help, yup it resembles, however my car wood trim is in spectacular shape, except the center console... It's a very glossy Ash wood trim though not the lighter color, so scratches show more in the darker wood finish.

[benzer77]

Thanks for taking the picture and attaching it... I tool the liberty to download it and then upload it to the AG Gallery so I can insert it for easier viewing and thus easier discussing...


http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/722/IM002731.jpg





benzer77

Does the above picture resemble what you are also working on?

:)


Thanks Mike,

That area is the worst of it, the rest is in pretty good shape. I think with that being the flat part in front of the storage compartment between the seats, it has had a lot of things dragged across it over the years.

You guys could invent/design some sort of 1" or so size pads to fit a drill or dremel to get to these areas. :props:

I am a little apprehensive but, that's all part of the fun right?! These panels can be removed from the car and make it possible to use a machine. Then you risk the possibility of causing larger problems, rids, breaking attachment pins, etc.... Or maybe it's time for a road trip to AG.

I am going to go after it in a test spot as you suggest with new SX. I will report back when I get there.

I am not a professional detailer and I have tired ScratchX 2.0 but it never worked, maybe I didn't use the right technique? so what's the right way of using ScratchX? Any ideas?

Thanks guys.

[Mike Phillips]

I am not a professional detailer and I have tired ScratchX 2.0 but it never worked, maybe I didn't use the right technique? so what's the right way of using ScratchX? Any ideas?

Thanks guys.

Technique is everything when working by hand...

Here's a short, and incomplete video that starts to go into how to apply a paint cleaner but since it was a promo, to promote the purchase of a DVD it doesn't go into much detail.

Short video on how to move your hand (http://www.showcargarage.com/vid/60corvette_scratchx2.wmv)


Removing defects by hand comes down to,

How to move your hand
How much pressure to apply
Application Material Selection
Product Selection

Seriously, after teaching hundreds of classes and thousands of people how to remove swirls and scratches by hand, here or the most common problems...


People applying a product like a finishing wax, that is gently... this won't do anything
Not applying enough pressure - no passion behind the pad...
Not moving your hand fast enough
Tackling too large an area at one time
Not applying enough applications
Not using enough product

When it comes to working on small panels like these trim components, the problem is usually having enough room to move your hand back and forth fast in an effort to abrade the surface to remove enough material to level the surface. If the trim component is out in the open it's not a problem, but as the trim component is surrounded by things like displays, switches, buttons, levers, etc, as these thing get in the way you can't get in there and put some passion behind the pad.

Removing the components would be best as long as you don't cause even more damage to the vehicle in the process.

I've made small pads for the rotary before but now days Griot's Garage has a really nice orange 3" polishing pad out that fits on a 2 3/4" backing plate, this is still too large for some areas but could be used for larger sections. Of course if you can't remove the component then you would want to tape-off and cover anything your don't want accidental splatter to get onto.

And as mentioned before, film-build thickness is always going to be an issue...

:)

[WestEnd]

Update and I am excited!!! This new SMAT Scratch X is amazing. The old one did hardly nothing and this new formula is quite different.

But, WOW! This hand working takes a lot of time and patience. But considering my hand RPM versus a machine, it all makes sense. For the Pros to charge accordingly this would be a costly process with small area results.

I noticed it took many applications and talk about working small areas. I noticed two inches by two is all the larger I could go to feel effective and smaller than that was better. I got my best results with fast movements and a lot of pressure with a sponge applicator.

I still need to work on reducing haze if I can. Maybe a little more time with 205??? Or M21??? Some more experimenting to go but wanted to show this is coming along nicely.

After Scratch X 2.0
http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/picture.php?albumid=131&pictureid=737

After 205
http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/picture.php?albumid=131&pictureid=738

[ryanbabz71]

good job looks great!

[Mike Phillips]

Update and I am excited!!! This new SMAT Scratch X is amazing. The old one did hardly nothing and this new formula is quite different.


The new SMAT products are amazing... I had to get the same results with the DAT technology for so many years with a ton more work and 30 sets of eyeballs watching me live.

With UC, SwirlX, ScratchX and even M105, (all are SMAT and all can be applied by hand), removing swirls, scratches and water spots by hand is easier than ever and this is especially true for modern clear coat paints because they are so much harder than traditional single stage paints. See this article,


http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/hot-topics-frequently-asked-questions/21924-practical-differences-between-single-stage-paints-clear-coat-paints.html


:xyxthumbs:

[Mike Phillips]

But, WOW! This hand working takes a lot of time and patience. But considering my hand RPM versus a machine, it all makes sense. For the Pros to charge accordingly this would be a costly process with small area results.


You nailed it... get some Ultimate Compound and it will go faster and be easier.




I noticed it took many applications and talk about working small areas. I noticed two inches by two is all the larger I could go to feel effective and smaller than that was better. I got my best results with fast movements and a lot of pressure with a sponge applicator.


That's the technique, you move your hand fast and put some passion behind the pad...


Put a little passion behind the pad - Mike Phillips (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/ask-expert-featuring-mike-phillips/23568-put-little-passion-behind-pad-mike-phillips.html)



:)

[Mike Phillips]

I still need to work on reducing haze if I can. Maybe a little more time with 205??? Or M21??? Some more experimenting to go but wanted to show this is coming along nicely.


Using a less aggressive product, clean soft foam applicator pad and a more gentle motion with less pressure from your hand and the end of the process. This is why I always say,




"Polishing paint is an art form... not a grinding process..."


Great before and after pictures that will inspire others to follow your path to their own success...



After Scratch X 2.0
http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/picture.php?albumid=131&pictureid=737

After 205
http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/picture.php?albumid=131&pictureid=738


A coat of wax or paint sealant will remove any hazing and maximize the clarity, gloss and shine plus make the surface slippery to resist future scratching and leave the surface protected.


Nice work...
So often people will type and type and type and ask question after question after question when what's needed is what you've done...

Push away from the keyboard and go out into your car and then try something...

:bowdown:

[Kurt_s]

After 205
http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/picture.php?albumid=131&pictureid=738
Very impressive. How long did this 2" section take between the SwirlX and 205?