Feedback requested on two protocols

[stevehecht]

I own a 2007 V6 Honda Accord with paint that has never been polished and has some mild scratches and swirls but is basically in good condition. I have washed, clayed, and waxed (Optimum Car Wax) the car 1-2x year for the past couple of years. My purpose is to remove the scratches and swirls and get some protection on for the winter.

My other car is a 1990 BMW 325i, black. I bought the car in 2007 from an owner in West Palm Beach, FL. I polished the car in 2007 with the PC DA (w/Optimum Polish II) and since then I have washed, clayed, and waxed 2-3x year with OCW in the spring and Collinite 845 for the winter. The paint is thinning on the trunk (see photos at http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/ask-expert-featuring-mike-phillips/29189-how-do-i-know-if-i-need-compound-polish.html #8). I feel like there are layers of wax on the car that I would like to remove because the paint (though now clear of swirls) looks dullish to me, so I'd like to brighten it up, plus protect it real well for the winter. I chose the Klasse AIO because it is a paint cleaner and a chemical polisher without abrasives.

I'm a relative beginner, and I've just purchased my first PC DA (7424XP) with the 5" and 3.5" backing plates. I'm trying to 'do it right' by using the right polishes, waxes, etc., along with the right pads and cloths. I've numbered the pads and cloths because I plan to label them according to what I've used them for. I live in Massachusetts and the cars are not garaged. I currently own all the products listed in these protocols. I feel like I've been planning a military campaign!


Is this a reasonable way to approach these cars given my objectives? Feed back please



2007 V6 HONDA PROTOCOL

1) WASH CAR
2) CLAY
3) APPLY OPTIMUM POLISH II w/5.5” LAKE COUNTRY HYDROTECH TANGERINE FOAM PAD #1 w/ WHITE TERRY CLOTH BONNET #1
4) BUFF OPTIMUM II POLISH w/ INDIGO MF CLOTH #1
5) REMOVE POLISH: 5.5” TANGERINE FOAM PAD #1 with ORANGE MF BONNET #1
6) OPTISEAL
--APPLY+BUFF w/GRAY MF CLOTH or YELLOW FOAM PAD

--(Spot scratches/swirls: 4” Lake Country Hydrotech Cyan foam pad with Optimum Polish II. Buff with Indigo MF Cloth #1. Apply Optiseal as above.)




1990 BMW 325i PROTOCOL

1) WASH CAR
2) APPLY: KLASSE AIO POLISH w/PC'S WHITE FOAM PAD w/WHITE TERRYCLOTH BONNET #2
3) BUFF: KLASSE AIO W/WHITE FOAM PAD w/INDIGO MF BONNET #1
4) WAX: COLLINITE 845
a. Apply: LAKE COUNTRY HYDROTECH RED Foam Pad #2 w/ white terrycloth bonnet #3
b. Buff: Indigo MF cloth #2
c. Final buff/polish: Lamb’s Wool Pad w/blue MF bonnet #2

[stevehecht]

:bump2:


Doesn't anyone want to give some advice?

[JonMiles]

If you want to remove old wax, you can always chemically strip the paint. Prep-sol or APC will remove old residue.

As far as correction goes, do a test section and figure out a process that works. Use that process on the entire car.

For thinning paint on the trunk, get the area nice and clean then use a dark glaze on it, that way there is no abrasion only filling. You don't want to take off any more clear at all.

Odds are if the paint on the trunk is thin, so are other panels, you might want to get a professional to take paint thickness reading for you.

[stevehecht]

^Thanks Jon, I didn't know paint thickness could be measured. I'll be doing these jobs over the next two days. Any other comments out there about choice of products or about the way I'm applying/removing them?