Rookie's first take at polishing G35

[fishnugget]

Hi guys,

I am new fairly new to the detailing world and placed a few large orders to get all the supplies to polish my black G35 coupe. I watched all the Mike videos which have been extremely helpful and have read articles on M105 and M205.

It has definitely been a learning process, with m105, so much dusting. It took me two panels to finally get it right. M205 has been relatively easy to work with from the start. I am also finding that the G's paint is soft in certain panels, weird. I find sometimes that I will wipe with a polishing MF and this sometimes instills light scratches.

The car was in worse shape than I thought and had to use the 3" backing plate with yellow pad for deep scratches (RIDS). It had not been fully detailed in 3 years. I wish I would have bought the 4" PFW pads because it took a lot of effort to get these scratches out. I am using the Griots DA. I'd say I have taken out about 95% of the scratches out. There are some RIDS in lower areas of the car that I just figured I would ignore, too much work and it is my daily driver.

I am still working on the car and have not finished. I feel like its taking forever and I am not going to lie, it been a killer workout. My arms feel like they were going to fall off. I've invested at least 20 hrs so far and it's because of all those deep scratches that bug me. I think the next time I will buy a rotary for those deep scratches, the DA is cool but it seems to take a long time for those RIDS.

Right now, I still need the bumpers, lower rocker panels, and will probably do the front and rear headlights. I am also going to use m205 with gray pad as my last step on the entire car (have only used m105 with yellow and orange and m205 white pad).

My most difficult task was the rear quarter panels on the G35 because they are so curved. How do you guys do it? Its so hard with the flat pads I used. Even with the 3-4" pads it was difficult. Do you use those Kompressor pads or does this just come with experience? I felt like I took forever on these panels because I couldn't get the machine to spin.

Well I feel like I have worked so hard that this has motivated me to buy a Nomad power washer to use with my RODI unit.
I plan to make gallons of Deionized water with my filter and use the Nomad to rinse. This is much more cost effective than the CR spotless system. I will post pics when it arrives, hopefully no more scratches or marring the paint with drying.

I figured I could post some pics of the process so far. I am almost done.

Here is my process, some finished, the other pending.

Wash: CG citrus wash and clear (strip paint)
Clay: Mothers Clay and QD
Polish: M105 with LC Yellow and Orange
M205 with White

Pending

M205 polish with Gray

Plan to finish with

Chemical Guys EZ cream Glaze II
BFWD Sealant

What do you guys think?

Pics of progress
Before
http://i294.photobucket.com/albums/mm81/SSaul18/IMG_1785.jpg
After
http://i294.photobucket.com/albums/mm81/SSaul18/IMG_1835.jpg
http://i294.photobucket.com/albums/mm81/SSaul18/IMG_1793.jpg
http://i294.photobucket.com/albums/mm81/SSaul18/IMG_1817.jpg
http://i294.photobucket.com/albums/mm81/SSaul18/IMG_1787.jpg
http://i294.photobucket.com/albums/mm81/SSaul18/IMG_1819.jpg

http://i294.photobucket.com/albums/mm81/SSaul18/IMG_1826.jpg

Here is my RODI unit hanging in my garage.
http://i294.photobucket.com/albums/mm81/SSaul18/IMG_1829.jpg
http://i294.photobucket.com/albums/mm81/SSaul18/IMG_1832.jpg

Its is connected to my laundry water line. I use to use it for my fish tanks but now use it for drinking water (RO water). It has a 3 gallon pressure tank (not pictured) that I "T" off to a drinking water faucet in the kitchen and fridge for the ice maker. My RO water has a TDS of 5ppm and my DI water has a TDS of 0. It works really well because the RO membrane has a high rejection rate 98.5% which means that most contaminants are filtered before they reach the DI resin. I figured I would put my DI resin canisters to use for a spotless rinse using the Nomad.

I am really surprised that a lot of detailers here do not own a RODI unit for DI water. Coupled with the Nomad it would be far more cost effective than the CRS spotless system.

[rohnramirez]

Looking great! Yeah the DAs wiggle and shake a lot, making you absorb all that movement will tire you. Love the filtration system idea!

Just a quick question, why do you plan to use 205 with the gray pad? Don't you finish mar-free or scratch free with the 205 with white? Like Mike always says, it is best to do a test spot to know what works best prior to doing it to the whole car. :)

With the curves, you will either do them by hand or use smaller pads such as those 4" you already have. The DAs just stop spinning when the pad isn't flat. Again, wonderful work!!! :)

[Da Fats]

Just remember not all rids can or should be removed. Great work on the swirl removal

[jakonrad]

I'm liking the RODI system. Where do you pick something like that up? I've been looking for a while now for something to use for drinking water and detailing and can't seem to find much that's not for industrial use.

[Metajames]

Looking good my friend.

I use RODI for all my dilutions and onr washes not many ppl in detailing have full RO and DI units except those of us who also have fish tanks ;-). I need to get a booster pump badly though.

[Metajames]

I'm liking the RODI system. Where do you pick something like that up? I've been looking for a while now and can't seem to find much that's not for industrial use.

Got mine on ebay...

[Dubbin1]

Looking good :dblthumb2:

Not really sure why you were having problems with the rear quarters. I would guess inexperience with the DA. In time it will all come to you.

[svs]

I'd say that's pretty darn good for a rookie!:xyxthumbs:

[fishnugget]

Looking great! Yeah the DAs wiggle and shake a lot, making you absorb all that movement will tire you. Love the filtration system idea!

Just a quick question, why do you plan to use 205 with the gray pad? Don't you finish mar-free or scratch free with the 205 with white? Like Mike always says, it is best to do a test spot to know what works best prior to doing it to the whole car. :)

With the curves, you will either do them by hand or use smaller pads such as those 4" you already have. The DAs just stop spinning when the pad isn't flat. Again, wonderful work!!! :)

Thanks rohnramirez,

Glad you like the filtration idea, I thought I would post it to show members another more cost effective way of doing spot free rinses.

I plant to use m205 with gray because the car did not finish mar free in all areas. I dont know if its marring or buffer trails but something is up. Not every panel came out like this it was mainly the quarters but I am just doing it for precaution. I did try the test spotting but had to change to more aggressive because not all the scratches would be removed.

Those curves are killer, I did not realize how difficult they would be. I am sure its my inexperience too. Hopefully I get better as time goes on. Thanks again for all the comments. :)



Just remember not all rids can or should be removed. Great work on the swirl removal

Thanks Da Fats, I know not all should be removed but the ones that stood out on viewable panels really bugged me. I had a lot on the hood and couldn't resist removing them. I guess my perfectionist side took over while I was polishing.


I'm liking the RODI system. Where do you pick something like that up? I've been looking for a while now for something to use for drinking water and detailing and can't seem to find much that's not for industrial use.

jakonrad, I picked mine up at Spectrapure.com, its one of the more pricier units because they seems to have better filtration media and have been around for a while. However, check out these websites (all from reef enthusiasts websites) that sell RODI units. The key to a good RODI unit is to make sure your RO membrane is a DOW filmtec 75gpd membrane and even better if it has a high rejection rate (98% and up) because this means 98% of the impurities will be filtered out before they reach you DI resin. Which prevents your DI resin from depleting so fast.

Here are the sites,

Buckeyefieldsupply.com
Thefilterguys.biz (these people are very helpful)
Airwaterice.com
Bulkreefsupply.com
Spectrapure.com
melevsreef.com

You could also try ebay but the problem with ebay is that they have cheap filter media and the RO membrane they have is not as good. You will deplete your DI resin much faster unless you change out the RO membrane. But in that case you are better off buying from the recommended websites above. :props:



Got mine on ebay...


Looking good my friend.

I use RODI for all my dilutions and onr washes not many ppl in detailing have full RO and DI units except those of us who also have fish tanks ;-). I need to get a booster pump badly though.

Thanks metajames, I do recommend to replace that RO membrane when its time for a DOW filtec because they are much more efficient than the ebay ones. This will save you more money on DI resin in the long run.

Yeah, I bought a booster when I lived in San Diego because my pressure was so low. It makes a huge difference to have a booster pump because your unit will become much more efficient and will save you money.


Looking good :dblthumb2:

Not really sure why you were having problems with the rear quarters. I would guess inexperience with the DA. In time it will all come to you.

Thanks Dubbin,

I think it is inexperience with the DA, ie not knowing how to hold it under certain curves of the rear quarters. I wish there was a detailer who could show me.


I'd say that's pretty darn good for a rookie!:xyxthumbs:

Thanks svs, its been a lot of work, glad you like. I will post better pics later.

[Metajames]

Thanks metajames, I do recommend to replace that RO membrane when its time for a DOW filtec because they are much more efficient than the ebay ones. This will save you more money on DI resin in the long run.


Yep, first thing I did. Also replaced the horizontal DI stages with a proper vertical one and full filter set from filterguys when the resin ran out. The housings are all pretty generic though so I went the discount + upgrades route. Nice to run into another reefer on here, funny how interests crossover. Just don't crossover your detailing buckets to water change buckets! :laughing:

[fishnugget]

My friend did the same thing you did and his unit works great. He actually has a 99% RO membrane. Us reefers know must know water, lol. I was actually looking for my empty salt buckets but I threw them all away when I moved!

[fishnugget]

Hey guys,

I am currently polishing my cars door panel with a red LC pad and 205 as a final polish but I still seem to see some slight haze/buffing trails/holograms from my DA machine.

M205 is currently the finest polish I have on hand and the red pad is also the finest.

What am I doing wrong? Is the infiniti G35 paint soft? Am I not holding the machine correctly or do I need a true final polish like Menzerna 85RD? I am running the DA on speed 5. Thanks.

[TLMitchell]

Hey guys,

I am currently polishing my cars door panel with a red LC pad and 205 as a final polish but I still seem to see some slight haze/buffing trails/holograms from my DA machine.

M205 is currently the finest polish I have on hand and the red pad is also the finest.

What am I doing wrong? Is the infiniti G35 paint soft? Am I not holding the machine correctly or do I need a true final polish like Menzerna 85RD? I am running the DA on speed 5. Thanks.

If your trying to burnish the finish it's usually done at slower speeds. No experience with the G35 but many Asian vehicles are known for soft CC.

On a soft black finish I had trouble getting 205 to finish well with softer pads. I went back up to LC white and got a much better result. Even with 85RD on that particular soft black I found using a polishing pad produced better results than a finishing pad. Your pics looked great with the 205/white combo. Did you feel there was more to be attained?

TL

[fishnugget]

If your trying to burnish the finish it's usually done at slower speeds. No experience with the G35 but many Asian vehicles are known for soft CC.

On a soft black finish I had trouble getting 205 to finish well with softer pads. I went back up to LC white and got a much better result. Even with 85RD on that particular soft black I found using a polishing pad produced better results than a finishing pad. Your pics looked great with the 205/white combo. Did you feel there was more to be attained?

TL

Thanks, TL

I got some buffing trails/holograms on the white LC pad with 205 in some areas. Other areas came out really well. So I figured I would go over with a softer pad to rid the holograms.
So...I used a red (softest pad on hand) with 205 and still got those same holograms with 205. I went back to white then gray and gray flat seemed to work well. I am going to stick with the gray and 205. The holograms/buffing trails are so faint, I have to blast it with light to spot them.

Nevertheless, I am always my own worst critic. I think the next time I will try the 85RD and blue pad. See how that takes me. But you are right the infiniti paint does seem to be soft. Thanks for your help.

[Rsurfer]

Good job, rather very good job for a noobie. You seem to want that gloss at max. Try Menz 85rd with a black or blue pad for final finish. PM me and I'll send you a sample if you like.