Audi S8 questions

[Wakes4Fun]

I work with a guy who is currently driving a 2000 Audi S8. He wants me to do a full exterior detail on the vehicle which really isn't a big deal considering the car has been well taken care of . I just have a couple questions for you guys that my have exp. with these cars. First off the aluminum trim running down the side doors and bumpers has become faded and dull. Now he claims that the aluminum is aircraft grade and very delicate. So my question is what technique would you guys use to get it back to OEM look? Secondly what compounds and pads would you recommend for the paint which really only has light scratches and holograms?

Thanks in Advance
Will

[Old Tiger]

Try the new Optimum Hyper Polish. Try a metal polish on a test spot. If it works, I would polish the trim and tape it before polishing the paint.

[Wakes4Fun]

Try the new Optimum Hyper Polish. Try a metal polish on a test spot. If it works, I would polish the trim and tape it before polishing the paint.

Okay I'll have to try the Hyper polish and as far as the trim goes I think I'll take your advice and tape it off well and test out some good aluminum polish on it and see if I get some good results.

[dougaross]

WG Swirl Remover 3.0 and WG glaze work very well on my Audi

[Laura]

WG Swirl Remover 3.0 and WG glaze work very well on my Audi

:iagree: That's what I use on mine as well. However, I'd also recommend P85RD. What color is it? We'll need pics when you're done :xyxthumbs:

[Wakes4Fun]

:iagree: That's what I use on mine as well. However, I'd also recommend P85RD. What color is it? We'll need pics when you're done :xyxthumbs:

The car is black.....do Audis usually have a harder paint/clear? I have M105 and 205 that I'm going to try and see what kind of results I get. Either way I'm going to take it slow and make sure the vehicle is done just right. Since it will be one of the first real clients I've ever had. :) I will be sure and get lots of good pictures and keep you guys up to date

[rasch_C]

Let's deal with this in 2-parts: (1) buffing/restoring the paint (2) buffing and protecting the aluminum.

The paint:
Glad to hear it is in well-kept condition. My A8 was in OK condition, not great, when I buffed it at 170k after 5 years of ownership. Most damage was from previous owners. The Audi clearcoat is indeed hard as any search results will suggest.

I polished mine at the time with Megs 85/wool on up to Megs 80 with softbuff pad. I just restored a dark green 1996 A4 w/ 226k earlier this year w/ 2 passes of Menz SIP/cyan pad followed by 106FF/tangerine pad (the hood got 85rd/grey pad as it was a black S4 hood) with great results. Pictures of that job coming soon.

Your M105/M205 combo should work well. But, I would be cautious going with something as aggressive as M105 if the paint is in good condition. Always do a test spot and start with the least aggressive methods first.


The aluminum:
I used to run the parts for a local Audi dealership for 3yrs and talked w/ Audi US corporate about the "aluminum" trim as mine is in need of restoration also. Audi has confirmed for me, at least on my 1997 A8, that the trim going up the a-pillar, along the roof, and back down the c-pillar are in fact aluminum, but the strips at the bottom of the windows are of the chromed-plastic variety. No word on the rub-strip moldings, as mine are in good condition.

The thing about aluminum is that it needs to maintain some form of protective coating if you want it to retain a mirror-like shine. This is because of aluminum's affinity for oxygen. Bare aluminum will react with oxygen to create a layer of aluminum-oxide, thus creating a protective layer which prevents further corrosion -this is what alclad aluminum is, btw. Aluminum-oxide is powdery and dull -not good for great appearance finishes.

So, after buffing/restoring the mirror finish on any aluminum it needs to be protected. This would be in the form of continual application of wax, a clearcoat of some form. Or, what I was going to try: There is a company called Henkel which makes a product called Alodine. From what I gather, this comes in a couple different varieties: a more or less a intermediary layer to apply a final protective layer on top, and a clear product -Alodine 5700- that seems like you could leave as is for the final "lsp" if you will.

What needs to be weighed with this type of work is the cost of new trim versus restoring the old trim.


Hope this information helps you. And I would also be anxious in seeing the results/final writeup when done :D

[Wakes4Fun]

Sorry it took so long to get back but I did the car last weekend for the guy and needless to say he was very happy with the results. I wasn't able to get any of the real deep scratches out because of time restraints and supplies but did get some good clarity and shine out of the paint. My only problem was it felt like the whole process took way to long. I started working on the car around 9:00 and got done with it around 5:00. and towards the end I just felt like I was being rushed for time and couldn't give the work 110% like I wanted too.

How long does it usually take you guys for a paint correction with nothing else involved.

Btw Will have pics up soon. And as far as the aluminum trip goes I tried White Diamond Aluminum polish which is a local NC brand(very good stuff too) and it didn't even make a mark on this metal.

[Shade Tree]

Sorry it took so long to get back but I did the car last weekend for the guy and needless to say he was very happy with the results. I wasn't able to get any of the real deep scratches out because of time restraints and supplies but did get some good clarity and shine out of the paint. My only problem was it felt like the whole process took way to long. I started working on the car around 9:00 and got done with it around 5:00. and towards the end I just felt like I was being rushed for time and couldn't give the work 110% like I wanted too.

How long does it usually take you guys for a paint correction with nothing else involved.

Btw Will have pics up soon. And as far as the aluminum trip goes I tried White Diamond Aluminum polish which is a local NC brand(very good stuff too) and it didn't even make a mark on this metal.

Typical time invested for me (Audis, BMW, Jaguars) involving a 3 stage polishing is from 5-7 hours depending on the condition of the paint to begin with. I have lots of experience with working with these cars and if I needed to; 6 hours could see a very thorough reconditioning. Add a couple of hours for an interior & engine detail in the mix.