Can you use to little sealent and wax?

[GT3Racerich]

I bought Wolfgang sealent and wax a couple of months ago to do a new car.
I have another car that I was not using that much so It was a good time to detail it.
It is five years old and in good shape but definitly needed wax.
I did everything by hand and as I was proceeding I could see that it was much easier and faster using less product.(as every one says) So, is there a piont where there is not enough applied?
One other thing I have a habit of doing. When I put the sealent or wax on I go over it more than I think I should, almost like I am working it into the paint. Does that have to be done, or all I need to do is make sure everything is covered?
Thanks in advance, Rich

[Rsurfer]

I bought Wolfgang sealent and wax a couple of months ago to do a new car.
I have another car that I was not using that much so It was a good time to detail it.
It is five years old and in good shape but definitly needed wax.
I did everything by hand and as I was proceeding I could see that it was much easier and faster using less product.(as every one says) So, is there a piont where there is not enough applied?
One other thing I have a habit of doing. When I put the sealent or wax on I go over it more than I think I should, almost like I am working it into the paint. Does that have to be done, or all I need to do is make sure everything is covered?
Thanks in advance, Rich
Most will apply too thick. Do 2 thin, very thin coats for even coverage. Sealants and waxes do not have to be worked in like a polish.:buffing:

[JonMiles]

Dude nice car, but it looks like you parked it in the wrong neighborhood. Sealants work best just like painting, multiple thin coats being better than 1 very heavy coat. The polymers take longer to "cross-link" when the concentration is too high at a certain point. This has to do with cure time mainly. What I normally look for when applying is a fine film that looks slightly wet uniformly covering each panel. If there are points that look heavier, I spread them more and try to reach uniformity. There is no real reason to work the sealant into the paint because they are going to essentially just sit atop the paint, linked together throughout.

[ScottB]

some sealants like Wolfgang are quite forgiving to over application (still removes easily) however the rule of thumb is to add a light then even coat as possible. After removing allow the sealant to cure 12/24 hours and then recoat a second time as desired.

[Rob T]

Nice car!


Dude nice car, but it looks like you parked it in the wrong neighborhood.

:laughing:

[CEE DOG]

Dude nice car, but it looks like you parked it in the wrong neighborhood.

:laughing: :applause: Well done!

[Dubbin1]

Dude nice car, but it looks like you parked it in the wrong neighborhood.

OMG it took me way to long to get that one. I was sitting here looking at the pictures trying to figure out what you were talking about...

[GT3Racerich]

I had it up on jack stands to flush the brakes, detail the wheel wells, and do a good job on the wheels while they were off.
Thanks for the replys, Rich

[A4 1.8tqm]

It is five years old and in good shape but definitely needed wax. I did everything by hand and as I was proceeding I could see that it was much easier and faster using less product.(as every one says) So, is there a point where there is not enough applied?

Hey Rich,

I think the only point in application of a LSP where using less product would be considered too little, is if the product is distributed so thin that some areas are completely void of any product coverage. So, as long as it's even, with "full" coverage... Thin to Win! :xyxthumbs:


One other thing I have a habit of doing. When I put the sealant or wax on I go over it more than I think I should, almost like I am working it into the paint. Does that have to be done, or all I need to do is make sure everything is covered?

Thanks in advance, Rich

Regarding LSP application, Mike Phillips has said "work the product over and into the surface to whatever level is possible", or something to that effect. Meaning that it may be beneficial if the wax is worked into any "nooks and cranny's" (likely only visible at a microscopic level) that are present in the paint surface. Whether or not a quick single swipe with a wax applicator or a thorough working actually makes a difference in getting "into the paint", I don't know. I would think that an expertly "Jeweled" paint surface would need less working than a one that was finished with only a medium swirl remover or the like. Personally, if I apply wax/sealant by hand, I do small sections going over the area twice with 50% overlap, very similar pattern to machine polishing.

[BobbyG]

Over the years sealants have come along way and I'm not sure which one should be the last coat of protection. Coverage is key and if you've gone over it twice I'm sure you're fine.

When I apply wax I always use my Porter Cable 7424 polisher. I apply both sealants and waxes using a blue or red Lake Country pad on a speed of 3. I go back and forth many times working the product into the surface and keeping it as thin as possible.