porter cable 7424xp and pads

[_BIG_]

so i talked the boss into getting a pc for work to do polishing, light sanding and surface fixes to glass, marble, granite and especially furniture finish repair but also will be taking it home a weekend or two for the car

1st...any idea on what pads to use to do general purpose polishing and scratch removal for furniture? i know i read somewhere mike said furniture clear coats are usually soft and very thin. would also like it to be a pack of maybe 3 pads to start or 4 to do a lil of everything on metal, Plexiglas, furniture and glass.

then i also need advice on pads for the car
05 blue honda accord with a very good amount of scratches, swirls + some bad hazy spots in the clear coat. i also plan on klasse'n the glass too (aio +sg...sg can be used on glass correct? i know ive read aio can)

i already have wash, clay, megs uc, klasse twins and megs #26
figured the klasse sg + megs #26 by hand as im BRAND NEW to DA polishers and rotaries

im trying to get him to purchase thru here but weve got a grainger account so the pc might come from there (for $45 more :[ ) and pads from here but if theres a good all around package and im willing to split cost on my pads vs everything else he might go for the better deal.

thanks alot everyone...ive learned a library's worth of tips n knowledge on here already
(hope this is in the right sub forum) lol

[Mike Phillips]

1st...any idea on what pads to use to do general purpose polishing and scratch removal for furniture?

i know i read somewhere mike said furniture clear coats are usually soft and very thin.


On furniture you'll want to stay with polishing and finishing pads, probably 5.5" and 4" Spot Repair pads, depends upon the shape of the furniture.



would also like it to be a pack of maybe 3 pads to start or 4 to do a lil of everything on metal, Plexiglas, furniture and glass.


Just so there's no misunderstandings about the ability of a PC, it may or may not be the right tool for metal and glass depending upon what you want to do with it.




then i also need advice on pads for the car
05 blue honda accord with a very good amount of scratches, swirls + some bad hazy spots in the clear coat.


Go with 5.5" pads, either flat or CCS, they both work great just personal preference as to the design.




i also plan on klasse'n the glass too (aio +sg...sg can be used on glass correct? i know ive read aio can)


I personally don't ever recommend paint care products on glass as paint/resin is totally different than glass.

Klasse SG has the ability to make and actual layer or coating over a surface, this isn't a good thing for a clear piece of glass.

The Klasse AIO could be used to lightly polish the glass to remove some light contamination off the surface with emphasis on the word light.




i already have wash, clay, megs uc, klasse twins and megs #26
figured the klasse sg + megs #26 by hand as im BRAND NEW to DA polishers and rotaries


DA Polishers are easy to use, just watch the videos and read my article, the article is the most in-depth article on the topic ever written to date; I know some people don't like to read but the information is there....


How To Remove Swirls, Scratches and Water Spots using a PC 7424XP, Meguiar's G110v2 or Griot's Garage 6" Random Orbital Polisher


Using a DA Polisher - Part 1

- How to remove swirls, scratches and water spots using a Porter Cable DA Polisher


Using a DA Polisher - Part 2

- How to remove swirls, scratches and water spots using a Porter Cable DA Polisher


Using a DA Polisher - Part 3

- How to remove swirls, scratches and water spots using a Porter Cable DA Polisher

Most Important...

Here's how to do a "Section Pass" when trying to remove swirls, scratches and other below surface paint defects.


How to do a Section Pass
[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q70g83mnTn4]YouTube - How to do a "Section Pass" with a Porter Cable 7424XP[/video]


Visit Autogeek's YouTube Channel for more YouTube Videos (http://www.youtube.com/autogeek)


The Definitive How-To Article for Removing Swirls, Scratches and Water Spots Using a Porter Cable 7424XP, G110v2 or Griot's Garage Polisher (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/tricks-tips-techniques/20021-definitive-how-article-removing-swirls-scratches-water-spots-using-porter-cable-7424xp-g110v2-griot-s-garage-polisher.html)



The Rotary Buffer takes a little practice to become good at it and a little more practice to master the tool.


:xyxthumbs:

[_BIG_]

On furniture you'll want to stay with polishing and finishing pads, probably 5.5" and 4" Spot Repair pads, depends upon the shape of the furniture.

mostly would be desks and tables and long/wide flat surfaces, for the little nooks n crannies n turns we have hand methods

colors of pads dont really matter right? just if they are finishing or polishing in name? and in aggressiveness polishing would be more aggressive than finishing correct?



Just so there's no misunderstandings about the ability of a PC, it may or may not be the right tool for metal and glass depending upon what you want to do with it.

for metal it would really just be to give it a good cleaning and bring it up to real nice shine. we have a TON of stainless steel and aluminum and chrome plated(probably will leave the chrome to hand methods) things (countertops, floor cabinets, racks, (metal door guards kick + handle that we also hand clear coat after)) that kill us to do in arm muscles and we could bang out more in less time.

glass would be to clean and shine and possible lightly fill scratches?( dont know if im using the right term and dont have a product in my mind at the moment for this purpose, basically like micro swirls in car paint...but in glass if you get my drift)



Go with 5.5" pads, either flat or CCS, they both work great just personal preference as to the design.


any suggestions on which colors/use for each step?

megs uc (bad swirls n such wouldnt mind doing 2 passes tho or moving up to a less abrasive after) - pad color/use
less aggressive if needed - pad color/use?
klasse aio - pad color/use (or would it work just as well by hand?)
klasse sg- pad or hand?
megs 26 - im thinking id like to do the last buttering by hand :D lol



I personally don't ever recommend paint care products on glass as paint/resin is totally different than glass.

Klasse SG has the ability to make and actual layer or coating over a surface, this isn't a good thing for a clear piece of glass.

The Klasse AIO could be used to lightly polish the glass to remove some light contamination off the surface with emphasis on the word light.

yea ive just read alot of people say theyve used Klasse AIO on the whole vehicle but just wasnt sure if the same went for SG. i didnt want to have impaired vision out of my windshield or rear ws because i was stupid and didnt ask for advice first.

any advice on what could help with those little micro swirls and scratches in glass even if its hand applied stuff?
i figured the aio would clean n shine and the sg would fill them but if sg isnt advised im not doing it

most of my work and want for this tool @ work is for cleaning, polishing and shine with minimal defect removal on the surfaces ive listed (glass, furniture is our biggest thing ATM (light scratches in clearcoats, nothing deeper than that, just want to diminish the lines before we re-clearcoat) metal im not really lookin for much swirl/scratch removal just clean n shine)

car will be the whole compound/swirl removal/kaio+sg/wax



DA Polishers are easy to use, just watch the videos and read my article, the article is the most in-depth article on the topic ever written to date; I know some people don't like to read but the information is there....


yea ive watched many of your vids from the da to the sealant vs wax to the straight line application process...i normally go to sleep @ 5am...thanks to autogeek its now 8am or later watching vids and reading how to's

oh and happy late 1 yr aniv. your celebration + sale was my first purchase so than you and congrats

[Mike Phillips]

yea ive watched many of your vids from the da to the sealant vs wax to the straight line application process...i normally go to sleep @ 5am...thanks to autogeek its now 8am or later watching vids and reading how to's


LOL Don't blame me...




oh and happy late 1 yr aniv. your celebration + sale was my first purchase so than you and congrats



Thank you and Thank you!


:dblthumb2:

[_BIG_]

anytime.

so any recommendations on pad colors/aggressiveness for megs uc, maybe swirl x follow up, kAIO + kSG? (the twins i might do by hand if you think itll give same results as machine with those two products)

for work general purpose i think im going to go with a few polishing, a few finishing and maybe a light cutting or two

im looking @ the 5.5" ccs lineup

whats the difference between the red, blue and black? all say finishing, no cut and perfect for wax, sealant, polishes

i dont mind going with a lighter pad and having to do a couple of section passes to get my desired results.

i realy need to get him to buy from here...the prices beat 99% of other places ive seen for the pc AND pads, especially these kits

[_BIG_]

how does this sound
orange ccs for UC
green ccs for kAIO
red ccs for kSG

and if i need to use swirlx in between uc and kAIO i assume i could wash and reuse either the orange or the green with it?

im also lookin ath the orange and greens for most of my at work cleaning polishing + furniture flat surface clearcoat repair

we have a few furniture compounds and polish and figure one of these 3 color pads will be light enuff with the fine, ultra fine and non abrasive compound/polishes we have for wood

would the light cut be enuff to give a little smoothness and shine back to metal also?

thanks again

[Fly bye]

1st...any idea on what pads to use to do general purpose polishing and scratch removal for furniture?





That would depend on the severity of the scratch. What types of coating are you talking about? If you're talking about a very shallow scratch on a laquered finish, you could prolly fix it with a polishing pad. If the finish is stained, without a laquer on top, then sandpaper will be needed.

[_BIG_]

That would depend on the severity of the scratch. What types of coating are you talking about? If you're talking about a very shallow scratch on a laquered finish, you could prolly fix it with a polishing pad. If the finish is stained, without a laquer on top, then sandpaper will be needed.






talk strictly lacquered finishes...anything scratched down to the wood or unfinished id throw a sanding pad on the pc to get most of the meat done, then hand sand and stain and with either im planning on using very fine/light furniture specific polishes and compounds.

for metal it would be mostly to shine and polish (brass/stainless door kickplates + handle guards, brass plated elevator doors inside + trim inside, stainless steel counter tops + storage areas)

stone would be to apply sealants n shine (sink tops mostly granite/marble)

glass would be to clean and possible use something to help fill in tiny scratches (im thinking products like the diamondite ones for glass topped tables, mirrors and full glass doors + wall)

i know it sounds like im asking alot out of one tool but i in no way expect it to be my answer to everything...just to help us cut down time and arm labor on things wed normally do by hand)

im liking the ccs 5.5 pads but im just a little confused on which color of the polishing and finishing and finessing pads as all seem to be a half step up from the one before it...is there really a huge difference between the black, blue and red (visually) as they all seem to be LSP type pads

same question for the white, green and black in terms of polishing power and differences between the 3 to a newbie

also does anyone know if those 3 hr shipping deals count towards porter cables and or pc + kits? and if normal discount coupons normally count towards those?

i have a $20 off coupon and if i can get free shipping too i think i might be able to talk the boss man into putting the whole order (tools + pads) and still be cheaper than graingers tool cost alone. thanks again for puttin up with my 80mil questions and all the help

[Mike Phillips]

talk strictly lacquered finishes...anything scratched down to the wood or unfinished id throw a sanding pad on the pc to get most of the meat done, then hand sand and stain and with either im planning on using very fine/light furniture specific polishes and compounds.



Just be careful... mosts furniture has a raised or sharp edges/lines and lacuqer is soft and usually thin on edges or lines...



for metal it would be mostly to shine and polish (brass/stainless door kickplates + handle guards, brass plated elevator doors inside + trim inside, stainless steel counter tops + storage areas)


You'll probably want 4" spot repair pads... it doesn't take much of a curved shape or raised edge to stop the foam pad on a DA from rotating and for doing any kind of correctoin work on metal, like removing oxidation you're going to need the pad rotating for good cleaning and polishing action.




stone would be to apply sealants n shine (sink tops mostly granite/marble)


It will work great for applying a sealant to a flat counter.




glass would be to clean and possible use something to help fill in tiny scratches (im thinking products like the diamondite ones for glass topped tables, mirrors and full glass doors + wall)


You could use a DA with a glass polish to clean up dirty glass but nothing "fills" in scratches in glass to make them invisible.

You either abrade the glass or live with the scratch or replace the glass. If you want to remove scratches out of glass you'll really need a rotary buffer and it's going to be harder to do on a piece of thin ornemental glass as compared to a car windshield. It's also kine of messy, with a rotary buffer and a glass polish you're going to have splatter everywhere... that's because the glass polishes are all kind of powdery and watery... (Nature of the beast)




i know it sounds like im asking alot out of one tool but i in no way expect it to be my answer to everything...just to help us cut down time and arm labor on things wed normally do by hand)


After you get a PC and use it for a while you'll see learn its abilities and drawbacks...

I think I touch on those in this thread....

The Free Floating Spindle Assembly - The Story Behind The Story... (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/hot-topics-frequently-asked-questions/23995-free-rotating-spindle-assembly-story-behind-story.html)




im liking the ccs 5.5 pads but im just a little confused on which color of the polishing and finishing and finessing pads as all seem to be a half step up from the one before it...is there really a huge difference between the black, blue and red (visually) as they all seem to be LSP type pads

same question for the white, green and black in terms of polishing power and differences between the 3 to a newbie


If you just take a big picture point of view, try not to overcomplicate making pad choices...

Get some white pads for polishing and some gray pads for finishing...

If you really want to experience the subtle differences in foam texture and density between the different cutting, polishign and finishing pads that's best done in person with the pads in your hand.




also does anyone know if those 3 hr shipping deals count towards porter cables and or pc + kits? and if normal discount coupons normally count towards those?


Call Customer Care at 1-800-869-3011 and they can answer that question...


:xyxthumbs:

[_BIG_]

yea.. i believe were going to be grabbing a rotary soon too for working on what the pc cant do on its own and for tougher jobs.

most of the pads can be used on both machines correct? just the adapter needs to be different?

and does it make a huge difference with which counterweight i use?

if it comes with a 5 can i still use 5.5pads or bigger or will it really mess with the rotation?
and if i use a 6 can i use it with smaller pads without too much problem?

other than that i think all my questions have been answered...when mon/tues comes i be able to talk this tool into anybodies hands thanks to you guys and the vids