Bird Sh*t

[threepointer]

So I noticed that a bird hit my 2011 Audi Q5 with a strategic "dump" on the hood. Since I was so busy with work I didn't have a chance to take care of it right away. Yesterday I did a full wash and while the crap washed off easily, I noticed what looks like a slight discoloration during the drying process. I sprayed it with some QD, but it didn't correct it. I tried a little polish and that didn't work either. It's very small and hardly noticeable, but I would like it gone ASAP. My car was properly washed, clayed, polished and sealed about a month ago when I got it, so I doubt the paint is damaged. ANy suggestions on how to get rid of this blemish? I tried to take a pic, but it wouldn't show up so I just decided to attach some eye candy instead.

[CEE DOG]

I believe it did in fact bite into the top layer of the clear coat. It literally takes only minutes for a bird bomb to eat into the clear. Seriously, no exageration!
Use a paint cleaner and if that doesn't do it a finishing polish, and so on.

[Rsurfer]

Just get some Ultimate compound. You can do it by hand with no marring. Next time try putting a nuba over your sealant. That's why it's important to get that crap off asap.

[Mike Phillips]

Ultimate Compound will do the job but if the mark left is light or shallow then a less aggressive product might do it also like ScratchX.

Be sure to use a clean, soft foam applicator pad, clear coats are hard comparatively speaking to non-clear coat paints but they scratch really easy.

So you need to use a quality product and everything has to be clean when you're rubbing on the paint.

Check out this article, I included 2 pictures to show the 2 different types of bird dropping etchings...

Two Types of Bird Dropping Etchings (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/hot-topics-frequently-asked-questions/24924-two-types-bird-dropping-etchings.html)


The goal is to remove the defect without leaving fingermarsk...

Fingermarks (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/hot-topics-frequently-asked-questions/20496-finger-marks.html)



Related...

How to clay, clean and wax paint by hand with Pinnacle Paintwork Cleansing Lotion and Pinnacle Signature Series II Carnauba Paste Wax (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/how-articles/25218-how-clay-clean-wax-paint-hand-pinnacle-signature-series-ii.html)



:xyxthumbs:

[threepointer]

Ultimate Compound will do the job but if the mark left is light or shallow then a less aggressive product might do it also like ScratchX.

Be sure to use a clean, soft foam applicator pad, clear coats are hard comparatively speaking to non-clear coat paints but they scratch really easy.

So you need to use a quality product and everything has to be clean when you're rubbing on the paint.

Check out this article, I included 2 pictures to show the 2 different types of bird dropping etchings...

Two Types of Bird Dropping Etchings (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/hot-topics-frequently-asked-questions/24924-two-types-bird-dropping-etchings.html)


The goal is to remove the defect without leaving fingermarsk...

Fingermarks (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/hot-topics-frequently-asked-questions/20496-finger-marks.html)



Related...

How to clay, clean and wax paint by hand with Pinnacle Paintwork Cleansing Lotion and Pinnacle Signature Series II Carnauba Paste Wax (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/how-articles/25218-how-clay-clean-wax-paint-hand-pinnacle-signature-series-ii.html)



:xyxthumbs:


I tried some PO85RD, but it didn't really do anything. Granted I didn't rub too hard because I didn't want to cause additional damage. Is this the right type of polish and should I try rubbing a little harder or do I need a more aggressive product?

[Rsurfer]

85rd is a finishing polish and is probably to mild. Do like Mike P suggested and get some ScratchX. I would get Ultimate Compound as it will take care of most scratches and will finish down with no marring.

[WRAPT C5Z06]

I tried some PO85RD, but it didn't really do anything. Granted I didn't rub too hard because I didn't want to cause additional damage. Is this the right type of polish and should I try rubbing a little harder or do I need a more aggressive product?
85rd is very light, and good luck getting 85rd to break down by hand. Definitely need a machine polisher for 85rd. Anyhow, try some Ultimate Compound like Ron and Mike mentioned. If you need it quickly, you should be able to find it any any local auto parts store.

[Mike Phillips]

I tried some PO85RD, but it didn't really do anything. Granted I didn't rub too hard because I didn't want to cause additional damage. Is this the right type of polish and should I try rubbing a little harder or do I need a more aggressive product?

Working on clear coats in the context of removing defects without instilling defects at the same time is actually pretty hard to do. Most, (not all but most), products that work by machine don't also work by hand with the same results.

As pointed out by Ron, PO85RD is a finishing polish and a DAT product, chance are good it will have no effect at all except if you get frustrated and start pushing real hard you'll put toweling marks into the paint.

The product that I've used to date that works the best by hand to actually remove "Below Surface Defects", that is things like scratches, swirls and etching that are "in" the paint is the SMAT product by Meguiar's. Whatever this abrasive technology is that they've created it really works well by hand. Removing an etching means removing a little paint and that's the tricky part, how do you remove a little paint and level the surface without instilling scratches at the same time...

Like I said, working on clear coats in the context of removing defects without instilling defects at the same time is actually pretty hard to do.... so you want to use the right product, good technique and the best application materials and removal cloths you can obtain. Everything is a factor when working by hand.

It's actually real easy to get good results by machine, it takes more skill and experience to rub a clear coat out by hand than machine.



Do like Mike P suggested and get some ScratchX. I would get Ultimate Compound as it will take care of most scratches and will finish down with no marring.


I recommended ScratchX mostly because I don't know the skill level of the OP but my guess is the opposite of years and years of experience plus they're working on a black car.

Here's the real way to approach this problem, if you're going to take ownership of your car's appearance, as in washing and waxing the car, then you need some "Tools" in your Tool box and if you're working by hand then having a few products in your tool box would be a good idea, bet the ScratchX and the Ultimate Compound, then when you start, start with the least aggressive product to get the job done, if the first product you don't try doesn't get the job done then you can alway substitute a more aggressive product.


The Aggressiveness Order of SMAT Products - This might surprise you! (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/hot-topics-frequently-asked-questions/23583-aggressiveness-order-smat-products-might-surprise-you.html)

Super Micro Abrasive Technology = SMAT
From left to right, the most aggressive to the least aggressive SMAT products
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/828/SMATaggressivenessOrder.jpg

From the most to the least aggressive...

M105 Ultra-Cut Compound/M95 Speed Cut Compound = The same in abrading power
Ultimate Compound
ScratchX 2.0
M86 Solo Cut & Polish Cream
D151 Paint Reconditioning Cream
SwirlX
M205 Ultra Finishing Polish



:)

[trhland]

try to keep a nice coat of carnuaba wax/ or sealant on ur paint at all times . and remove bird poo as soon as you see it on ur paint. with a q/d or what ive been useing is waterless wash in a spray bottles for bird bombs. seems to remove them better then a q/d... but thats just me ... and a nice fluffy towel too of course..