Using The Orbital After Wet Sanding

[BillH]

I am getting down to the final part of restoring the finish on my 65 Shelby. I have wet sanded the car, 2K, 2500K and 3K (car originally done with Lacquer 30 years ago, never wet sanded) and started with a rotary and a wool pad using 105. I go over the panel twice. Next, I use the orbital with 205, also two times.

My issue is the tops of the fenders and the glass hood. Does it make sense to use the orbital instead of the rotary? These areas, in the case of the fenders, are not very wide. The stripes get masked and any work done here is done by hand.

Thanks

[A4 1.8tqm]

I would think that small pads on the rotary would be more precise in the tight areas. Maybe the first pass rotary and second with the DA?

[jlb85]

I have used the DA with surbuf pads right after 2000 grit, worked almost as fast as the rotary on wool. It shouldn't take more than a couple of passes even with an orange pad to get through the sanding marks with the DA.

I found shaft extensions for the rotary to be the one of the best tools for gaining more precise control in tight areas.

[Mike Phillips]

I am getting down to the final part of restoring the finish on my 65 Shelby. I have wet sanded the car, 2K, 2500K and 3K (car originally done with Lacquer 30 years ago, never wet sanded) and started with a rotary and a wool pad using 105. I go over the panel twice. Next, I use the orbital with 205, also two times.


It's really great to follow you through your progress on your 1965 Shelby Mustang, when you get ready to share pictures, let me know if I can be of help getting the sized correctly and uploaded into your gallery.




My issue is the tops of the fenders and the glass hood. Does it make sense to use the orbital instead of the rotary? These areas, in the case of the fenders, are not very wide. The stripes get masked and any work done here is done by hand.

Thanks

I've a few tidbits of info below, hopefully some of it will help...



I would think that small pads on the rotary would be more precise in the tight areas. Maybe the first pass rotary and second with the DA?

We have the The Edge 2000 6 Inch Wool Buffing Pads (http://www.autogeek.net/the-edge-2000-plus-6-inch-wool-buffing-pads.html) that would work for most thin, long panels on a 1965 Mustang. There's also 3", 3.5" and 4" foam pads and some of these are cutting pads.

There's also the Meguiar's Burgundy Soft Buff 4" foam Cutting Pads

If it has paint... it gets polished... (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/wet-sanding-cutting-buffing/23865-if-has-paint-gets-polished.html)

This is the new Meguiar's Burgundy Soft Buff 4" foam Cutting Pad on a 2 3/4" backing plate (http://www.autogeek.net/2vebapl.html) attached to the Flex 3403 (http://www.autogeek.net/flex-l3403vrg-rotary-polisher.html)

Using M105 for my cutting compound, it can sometimes be difficult to wipe off for a variety of reasons but if you wipe whatever panel you're working on immediately then it wipes off pretty easy, that is to wipe the film residue off before it fully dries.

Can't endorse the Flex 3403 Lightweight Rotary Buffer enough, this is to date, one of the nicest rotary buffers I've ever used and work great for small pads in tight areas or thin panels. For the major panels I'm using the Makita 9227C but for "edging" this car and any and all small, thin panels or tight areas I'm using the 3403

Here's a little tip, anytime you're buffing next to an adjacent panel and it's possible you could run the vertical or side edge of your pad into the paint, lubricate it by working some of the product you're using on the face of the pad onto and into the foam. This will help to keep from generating too much heat and burning the paint and also in the case of these lower panels, help me to remove some of the sanding marks on the angled section.
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/836/WorkingLowerSections004.jpg

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/836/WorkingLowerSections005.jpg

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/836/WorkingLowerSections006.jpg

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/836/WorkingLowerSections007.jpg


It's this little long thin section I'm trying to improve and protect.
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/836/WorkingLowerSections008.jpg


Picking up just a portion of the bead of product using the 10 @ 10 technique and then working it over a portion of this panel.
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/836/WorkingLowerSections009.jpg

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/836/WorkingLowerSections010.jpg

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/836/WorkingLowerSections011.jpg

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/836/WorkingLowerSections012.jpg

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/836/WorkingLowerSections013.jpg

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/836/WorkingLowerSections014.jpg


Note the safety glasses... don't want any splatter in my eyes...
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/836/WorkingLowerSections017.jpg


After removing the sanding marks in the front portion of that panel I picked up my bead and tackled the rear portion...
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/836/WorkingLowerSections018.jpg

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/836/WorkingLowerSections019.jpg


My personal preference is not handle, if there is a handle I actually like a Stick Handle as I can quickly and easily either remove it or move it from side to side depending upon how it works best for the panel.
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/836/WorkingLowerSections020.jpg

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/836/WorkingLowerSections021.jpg


Much better...
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/836/WorkingLowerSections026.jpg


And these two "fiber" 3" and 3.5" pads from this thread,

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/wool-foam-buffing-pads/24201-meguiars-easy-buff-knitted-wool-3-inch-pads.html

Here's a brand new one next to one I used with M105 on the Flex 3403 Lightweight Rotary Buffer to remove sanding marks.


The way the fibers have matted down in a twisted fashion is NORMAL

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/803/MegsWoolSpotRepairPads001.jpg


Here's a brand new Meguiars Easy Buff Knitted Wool 3 Inch Pad (http://www.autogeek.net/meguiars-easy-buff-wool-pad.html) next to a Foamed Wool 3.5 inch Buffing & Polishing Pad (http://www.autogeek.net/3-5inch-foamed-wool-pad.html)
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/803/MegsWoolSpotRepairPads002.jpg


Here they are upside down with a 2 3/4" rotary buffer backing plate (http://www.autogeek.net/2vebapl.html) attacked to give you an idea of general size.
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/803/MegsWoolSpotRepairPads003.jpg



These are both good for aggressive cutting on thin panes or for spot repair when using a rotary buffer.






I have used the DA with SurBuf pads right after 2000 grit, worked almost as fast as the rotary on wool. It shouldn't take more than a couple of passes even with an orange pad to get through the sanding marks with the DA.


Good call, plus we carry 4" Surbuf pads or if you go with the 5.5" Surbuf pads you can also use a 5.5 interface pad to provide some extra cushion if you wanted... this would decrease cutting action a little but some people like the feel of a little extra cushion for "important" careful work.

Surbuf with M105 will remove the sanding marks, just not as fast as a wool pad on a rotary but with good technique it will do it fast enough plus no rotary buffer swirls to remove just micro-marring. You would remove most of the risk of burning paint due to the free rotating spindle assembly.




I found shaft extensions for the rotary to be the one of the best tools for gaining more precise control in tight areas.


I aggree... like this only for car panel applications... the below works well for cleaning pads in pad washers too...

Optimum Double-Sided Rotary Adapter - 3M Quick Release Adapter
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/715/PolishingAluminumbyMachine002.jpg

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/715/PolishingAluminumbyMachine003.jpg


http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/715/PolishingAluminumbyMachine004.jpg

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/715/PolishingAluminumbyMachine005.jpg


I started with the Edge 6" Medium Cut Wool Buffing pad, the unique center system reduces/removes vibration while buffing.
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/715/PolishingAluminumbyMachine006.jpg


http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/715/PolishingAluminumbyMachine007.jpg


http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/715/PolishingAluminumbyMachine008.jpg


Note I have removed the handle options from the Flex 3403 Lightweight Rotary Buffer, this gets them out of the way for intricate work in tight spaces and is my own personal preference.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/715/PolishingAluminumbyMachine009.jpg


Some links for some of the above items...

3M Quick Release Adapter (http://www.autogeek.net/3m-quick-release-adapter.html)
Optimum Double-Sided Rotary Adapter (http://www.autogeek.net/optimum-rotary-adapter.html)
The Edge 2000 6 Inch Wool Buffing Pads (http://www.autogeek.net/the-edge-2000-plus-6-inch-wool-buffing-pads.html)


:)

[BillH]

Thanks for all of the help, of course, none of these items are available locally, so it looks like I am going to have to place another order. I think I will try the foam pads on the orbital after finish sanding with 3000. Let you know how it turns out.
Thanks again
Bill