How do I remove overspray?

[superd]

How can I remove overspray from my car? I just had a small tear in the back bumper fixed and I just discovered what feels like possible overspray over the entire car. I had just did the WG TSR, FG, WGDGPS, and topped it with Fuzion. The paint is in good shape any suggestions on the easiest way to get rid of the overspray? My paint is feeling really rough. I also have on hand some LC orange, white, and blue pads and the Meg twins (105-205). Not sure how to fix the problem. Also any suggestions on how to protect the new paint? It's one day old.

Here's a couple before photo's (the lack of photography skills are showing) I had a hard time with the weather, as soon as I finished it rained.

Thanks,
David

6448

6449

6450


Feed back please

[canairb]

For the overspray and roughness, did you try claying?

[Buckskincolt]

Get out the clay bar

[Mike Phillips]

Try detailing clay...

Show Car Garage Video: How detailing clay works and how to use detailing clay to remove above surface bonded contaminants (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/how-videos/24319-show-car-garage-video-how-detailing-clay-works-how-use-detailing-clay-remove-above-surface-bonded-contaminants.html)



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Part 1 - How To Use Detailing Clay

- Part 1 - How to use detailing clay


Part 2 - How To Use Detailing Clay

- Part 2 - How to use detailing clay



Visit Autogeek's YouTube Channel for more YouTube Videos (http://www.youtube.com/autogeek)


:)

[Mike Phillips]

Just by coincidence, I wrote two articles on the "topic" of claying, not specifically how to clay... these were for other organizations newsletters and trade magazines...


The 2 primary benefits of using detailing clay to clay paint (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/how-make-money-detailing-cars/27969-2-primary-benefits-using-detailing-clay-clay-paint.html)


The Baggie Test - How to inspect for above surface bonded contaminants (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/how-articles/27967-baggie-test-how-inspect-above-surface-bonded-contaminants.html)



The older articles I wrote actually go over "how to" clay...

Tips and Tricks for using detailing clay (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/how-articles/20259-tips-techniques-using-detailing-clay.html)
Wolfgang Elastic Poly Clay Bar - Review and How-to (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/product-reviews/21823-wolfgang-elastic-poly-clay-bar-review-how.html)


Related articles...

How to clay, clean and wax paint by hand with Pinnacle Paintwork Cleansing Lotion and Pinnacle Signature Series II Carnauba Paste Wax (http://How to clay, clean and wax paint by hand with Pinnacle Paintwork Cleansing Lotion and Pinnacle Signature Series II Carnauba Paste Wax)

Do I need to wash my car after I use detailing clay to clay the paint? (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/hot-topics-frequently-asked-questions/22721-do-i-need-wash-my-car-after-i-use-detailing-clay-clay-paint.html)



:)

[superd]

After claying will I need to polish with the 205 or WG FG? Or will the claying even harm the work I've already done? Also I just ran out of the dedicated claybar spray, all I have it the FK, WG detail sprits, and WG sealant spray. Would any of these work as a substitute until I get my DP BOGO?

[FinalTouchAuto]

If you provide adequate lubrication you should not have to go back over with a finishing polish.

You will need to reapply all of Sealants/Waxes though.

Why would you do so much work without Claybaring the paint first? I'm not pickin on ya, just curious.

[FinalTouchAuto]

Edit - Nevermind, I missed that the overspray was caused from post-detailing work done on the car. Sorry to hear that :(

[Mike Phillips]

After claying will I need to polish with the 205 or WG FG? Or will the claying even harm the work I've already done?


There's been some chatter lately about how some people are seeing light scratching in their car's finish after claying and I would have to say that I've seen this too but luckily it's rare and in most cases will be more related to the paint being scratch sensitive, not because clay is evil.

I was working on a show car this year, black in color and noticed during clay demonstrations the paint was being scratched so I removed the scratches with a DA Polisher and a light polish.

It's one of the few times I've ever seen claying leaving scratches in the paint.

The goal is to use the right clay and a quality lubricant along with good technique whenever you're claying paint, but even so, inspect the results afterwards.

When it comes to removing overspray or any other "Above Surface Bonded Contaminant", at this point in time claying is the best alternative out of your choices because claying will remove above surface bonded contaminants without removing paint. You're other options without getting super complicated with some kind of chemical that will dissolve overspray but won't dissolve the car paint are some type of abrasive product like a compound, the problem with a compound however is that it's usually not as effective as claying at removing overspray depending upon how it's applied.

If applied with a foam pad any any kind of electric polisher including a rotary buffer the foam will merely glide over the bumps of overspray, some overspray will be removed but not all the overspray, that's why I use the word "effective" above.

If a wool pad is used on a rotary buffer to remove overspray then it's a lot more effective but now the fibers of the wool pad, the compound and the remove overspray will leave swirls in the paint and now you'll have to remove these.

So at this point in time, claying is the best choice or alternative for removing above surface bonded contaminants, just use GREAT quality products and GREAT technique, (you can use good products and good technique if you want to since it's your car but it sounds like you're going to want to do your best so I used the words great instead of good), and then inspect the results and move on from there.

Me personally? If I were in your shoes I would clay the paint to remove the overspray, the re-polish the paint to a crystal like shine and then re-seal the paint with a quality wax or paint sealant, especially if the car in question is important to me or my “toy”.

[Mike Phillips]

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/719/workaround.jpg

[nirmaljusdoit]

I did have some over spray over my roof once, but took me a lot of passes with a Megs clay bar before i got it all off. Another tip i realized is that i needed to keep kneading the bar to reveal a fresh surface got it off faster !

Mike - Had no idea that UQD cant be used for claying !? I ran out of the supplied QD with the Megs kit & used UQD to finish claying on my friends car this weekend ! Surface turned out fine though.

Am confused about whether i can use it or not, please advise Feed back please Is there anything else i can use ?

[Mike Phillips]

Am confused about whether i can use it or not, please advise



I was at Meguiar's when UQD was introduced and might have even posted the announcement thread for the release of this product and what I'm telling you is the manufacturer's recommendation and that is to not use it as a clay lube.

Will it work? People have used it in the past with no complaints but the manufacture recommends Quik Detailer instead.

Check out the DP Universal Clay Lube in the DP line, we use it all the time in the studio and it works with any clay...


:)

[superd]

Edit - Nevermind, I missed that the overspray was caused from post-detailing work done on the car. Sorry to hear that :(


Not a problem, I am not familiar enough with the claying process of a detailed car to determine how much of the product it would actually remove. Over the past 6 months I've just started trying to apply some of the methods I've learned from everyone on the forum and have tried to be very concious of the past mistakes I've made.

And thanks for the "sorry", when I got it back and washed it I freaked out when I felt how course the paint was.

Mike thank you for all the information, it helped tremendously. I tried using my WG detailing sprits and my pinnicle clay on the worst spot (no need for the glove test it pratically pulled the fibers off my shirt brushing against it) and it immediately came off and the paint was slick once again. I think I'll take your advice and go the extra mile. I look forward to having an excuse to papmper my car.

Thanks,
David


:urtheman:

[superd]

I am about to finish up with the detailing process, and I have a question. How many layers of WGDGPS would you recommend? Here's what I've done so far;

1) Washed with WG Auto Bathe, 2 bucket system
2) Pinnicle clay-which removed the overspray with ease!
3) 205 with a PC7424xp
4) IPA wipe down
5) One layer of WGDGPS

Now the question is to layer or not to layer the WGDGPS? Is there any benefit? I am going to put one layer of Fuzion over it. Also is the drying time on the WGDGPS from time of application or from the time of removal? I worked late last night and crashed before I could remove the sealant.


Feed back please :buffing:

[Mike Phillips]

I sliced up your last post and moved things around in order to better answer you...

First these two remarks...



I am going to put one layer of Fuzion over it.



Now the question is to layer or not to layer the WGDGPS? Is there any benefit?



I'm personally a big fan of applying two application of the last step product, it insures,

Uniform Coverage
Uniform Appearance


You can find people that will argue all day long over the benefit or lack thereof for applying any more than one coat and I even agree that one coat is sufficient as long as the person applying it is doing so expertly, but I don't ever think a person's opinion is worth arguing over, I just let everyone find a way that works best for them...

That said, if you're going to apply a coating of Wolfgang Fuzion over the Wolfgang Deep Gloss Paint Sealant and you did a good to GREAT job of applying the Wolfgang Paint Sealant, then skip the second coating of WDGPS and go straight to the Fuzion.

I mean you can apply the second coat if WDGPS if you want, it's not going to hurt anything but one good coat is good enough... it's a quality product all by itself.

Topping with Wolfgang Fuzion is what I call putting the frosting on the cake...




Also is the drying time on the WDGPS from time of application or from the time of removal? I worked late last night and crashed before I could remove the sealant.


The drying time is from time of removal. Letting a wax sit on paint too long creates the potential for problems, for example if dust in the air lands on the layer of wax you risk instilling swirls when you wipe the wax off with the dirt embedded into the wax coating.

Normally you apply your choice of wax or paint sealant, follow manufactures directions, you either allow it to fully dry, allow it to lightly haze or wipe it immediately off, it's usually one of those 3 recommendations and then you allow a window of time to go by to enable the protection ingredients to fully set-up.

:)