Claybar problems - Can't get it smooth and glassy

[prostar]

I finally got around to claying my car today after a 2 bucket wash method. I just got back into taking care of my car after a 9 year break...ya, almost a decade. You can imagine the contaminate build up.

I first used the White Megs Claybar from the claybar kit with the Megs Quik Detailer on my hood. It removed quite a bit, mostly a BROWN looking contaminate, but it still left the area rough. I decided to try my old Clay Magic Blue bar from 9 years ago (still works!) and it pulled out more nasty stuff. BUT, there my hood STILL had little rough spots.

I really want to get the area as clean and glassy as possible before attempting any compounds and polishes.

Are there any claybars better than the Clay Magic Blue bar that can pull out those last few rough spots? Or any other suggestions? Thanks for the help!

[newbdetailer]

There are more agressive bars you can try (usually reddish in color) but they may mar the finish a bit and then it will require buffing.

Meguiars has this in thier professional line.

[Fly bye]

I just got back into taking care of my car after a 9 year break...ya, almost a decade. You can imagine the contaminate build up.




Try using a little bit more downward pressure. Use as much pressure as you can without the clay sticking to the paint. If that doesn't work, there's more aggressive clay, as well as compounds.


:detailer:

[Vjeszczi]

If you use the more aggressive clay and it does leave marring, is that something you can hand buff out? I ask because I had the same issue on a car I did yesterday using Polyclay. I started off light with increasing pressure, but did not get everything off.

I ask if it can be done by hand because I don't yet have a machine to apply anything with or to do paint correction. I want to make sure this is something I want to do before making that kind of investment. But oh how my arms will thank me when/if I do.

[oldmodman]

I generally use my Clay Magic red Aggressive bar as a first time clay on any car that I am going to correct the paint on. A smooth surface gives you a good starting point to work with.
After the paint is perfect you can then clay once or twice a year with a very mild clay and very light pressure. That will result in a very smooth surface but you will still need to polish out any very minor marring caused by the clay.

[prostar]

Thanks everyone for your input thus far. I will probably be on the lookout for the red clay bar.

If I choose not to go for red clay, is there a compound that I can try with my DA that will completely smooth out the surface of my car?

[BobbyG]

Clay bars provide a solution to remove small bedded particles from the finish's surface. Before I recommend a solution I'd like to see some photos of the effected area. This would give me a better idea of what course to recommend.

[A4 1.8tqm]

What is still on your hood that you can't get smooth with the clay you have now? What are the "rough spots"? When you rub the clay on the surface is it rough like sand paper, or more sticky and the clay doesn't glide well, or is it sap spots? Since it's been so long since the last claying, how long do you work one area? I think that if you stick with one 1'x1' section you should be able to remove most embedded contaminates and get the surface smooth with any med. clay.

The consumer versions of Megs 105/205, Megs Ultimate Compound/Swirl X would probably be a good place to start with your DA.

[prostar]

What is still on your hood that you can't get smooth with the clay you have now? What are the "rough spots"? When you rub the clay on the surface is it rough like sand paper, or more sticky and the clay doesn't glide well, or is it sap spots? Since it's been so long since the last claying, how long do you work one area? I think that if you stick with one 1'x1' section you should be able to remove most embedded contaminates and get the surface smooth with any med. clay.

The consumer versions of Megs 105/205, Megs Ultimate Compound/Swirl X would probably be a good place to start with your DA.

The "rough spots" feel like little particles sticking out of the clear coat. When I begin to rub the clay with the help of Megs Quik Detailer, it starts of rough but begins to smooth out over time. I work each area (approx 6in x 12in) for about 10-15sec. After discovering that the surface wasn't smooth as I liked it to be, I hit it again for another 30 sec or so.

[cobalt9123]

The "rough spots" feel like little particles sticking out of the clear coat. When I begin to rub the clay with the help of Megs Quik Detailer, it starts of rough but begins to smooth out over time. I work each area (approx 6in x 12in) for about 10-15sec. After discovering that the surface wasn't smooth as I liked it to be, I hit it again for another 30 sec or so.

What color are they? Do they have a color and/or are they even visible? It's possible that they are embedded Iron Particles.

[prostar]

What color are they? Do they have a color and/or are they even visible? It's possible that they are embedded Iron Particles.
Here's a pic of a section on the hood.

http://lh4.ggpht.com/_B8MQuzG4f20/TEy5UkOhW2I/AAAAAAAAAIs/R0zOxuuIrj4/s512/IMG_0348.JPG

What do you think?

[Da Fats]

Looks like it might be iron... FK paint decom kit migh thelp but wait for others to chime in on this.

[cobalt9123]

Those are definitely embedded Iron Particles. I give a "no-go" on the FK Decontamination kit because I used it with poor results and it took me over 7 hours to do. I used Aquartz Iron Cut (not available on AutoGeek...yet), and it got rid of them in under 30 minutes over the whole car. It's an awesome product. If you'd like to know where I got it you can PM me :)