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View Full Version : Disadvantage of using medium or heavy duty clay?



grambow
05-06-2010, 04:41 PM
Is there a disadvantage to using medium or heavy duty clay? I would think they would remove more contaminants faster than regular clay. So why not always use medium or heavy duty. There has to be a downside right?

jlb85
05-06-2010, 04:43 PM
The more aggressive the clay, the more marring you can cause. If you are not going to polish, use finer clay.

grambow
05-06-2010, 04:56 PM
So since I am claying as a first step to polishing...I can go with a heavier clay? Have you noticed a big difference from regular to medium or heavy clay? Also, what are your thoughts on heavy clay on wheels?

HighEndDetail
05-06-2010, 05:31 PM
Is there a disadvantage to using medium or heavy duty clay? I would think they would remove more contaminants faster than regular clay. So why not always use medium or heavy duty. There has to be a downside right?


I would still go with a medium grade rather then a more heavy duty. Since it can leave less marring to the paint.

C. Charles Hahn
05-06-2010, 08:07 PM
Unless you NEED heavier clay, I wouldn't use it. If you're using the right amount of lube a standard grade of clay (CM blue for example) shouldn't take THAT long.

jlb85
05-07-2010, 09:08 AM
So since I am claying as a first step to polishing...I can go with a heavier clay? Have you noticed a big difference from regular to medium or heavy clay? Also, what are your thoughts on heavy clay on wheels?

Like others mentioned, unless you need heavier clay, don't use it. More aggressive clay dos not work any faster than normal clay for normal clay needs. For general stuff like body panels, there is really no advantage to using heavier clay. You still have to go over the entire panel. For problem areas like the fenders behind the wheels or around exhaust tips on boosted cars, you may benefit from heavier clay. For wheels, I would also use mild clay. Wheels are usually painted, and, well, paint swirls and mars. Unless you want to polish our each spoke on your wheels and the lips, use the lightest clay possible (and the softest brush to clean them with). For rust specs embedded into the paint, the more aggressive clay helps greatly (if they do not come off easily with mild clay).

We have some aggressive stuff and hardly ever use it, and we get tons of really hammered cars.

benjamin3
05-07-2010, 10:32 AM
New to all of this (claying, polishing, etc). From what I have read on the forums I would guess a light duty clay is the Pinnacle Ultra. Where do the WG clay or Mothers OTC fall into the categories? Also, if my car has never been clayed, which category should I start with (I am purchasing a PCXP to polish with afterward)?

ScottB
05-07-2010, 12:27 PM
clay is abrasive ... while alot could be said for polishing afterwards, why use something more abrasive than necessary.

oldmodman
05-07-2010, 09:39 PM
When a friend of mine brought her new used car over for me to look at I could see it needed a lot of work.
After two washes and an engine wash it was clean enough to start with a clay job. I tried my blue Clay Magic but it left quite a bit of "something" on the surface so I did it again with the red, aggressive clay. That took off whatever it was on the surface. I later found out it was airborne house paint than had been on the car for five years. Once the surface was smooth I gave it the usual SIP, Nano, Seal and Wax and it looked (not like new, thats for sure) pretty good for a never washed or detailed SUV.
And I bet she never has any work done it again. Maybe her three kids with a garden hose but not much more than that.