What Swirl remover to use on new paint???

[steedafocusgirl]

I just picked up my car from the body shop. It was a long 10 month process. :nomore:

And I guess the "detailer" Used a crappy buffer/ pad on my car. So it is swirl heaven all over my brand new paint job.


My question is which swirl remover would be "soft enough" to use on my new paint? And Should I still use my yellow pad? Should I still clay it before my detail? lol :dblthumb2:



Looks like I have some work to do! :buffing:

Thanks In advance! Kristin :xyxthumbs:

[A4 1.8tqm]

Some questions-

Sounds like rotary buffer swirls, (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/hot-topics-frequently-asked-questions/22234) that right?

I'm guessing that the yellow pad you referred to is a Megs soft buff?

What buffer and polishes do you already have?

How long has it been since the car was painted?

Can I see some pics of your cars? :dblthumb2:

[steedafocusgirl]

[QUOTE=A4 1.8tqm;312566]Some questions-

Sounds like rotary buffer swirls, (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/hot-topics-frequently-asked-questions/22234) that right? Yes!!!!!!

I'm guessing that the yellow pad you referred to is a Megs soft buff? I have the 6inch foam pads that I normally use. I have some yellows, reds and whites.

What buffer and polishes do you already have? I have a porter cable 7124 I have a bunch of meg swirl remover, Xmt Extreme swirl remover (i think it may be too strong) some wolfgang glazes and sealant. poor boys sealants and waxes. and A few other products too.

How long has it been since the car was painted? I picked it up last friday so its been less than a week
Can I see some pics of your cars? :dblthumb2:

[A4 1.8tqm]

Well I only have a small amount of experience with fresh paint, but you can likely remove the buffer trails with your lightest combo. Is this, Wolfgang Finishing Glaze 3.0 (http://www.autogeek.net/wolfgang-finishing-glaze.html), one of your WG products? If so try that, if not try the Megs swirl remover. Still not sure what pads you have. Use whatever the lightest cut pad is, and don't apply any sealant or wax until the paint is fully cured. Might ask the shop about that one.

So IMO, hit a test spot (a spot that has some of the worst of the defects you want to remove) with your lightest combo and continue if it's satisfactory. Get it looking decent for now and when the paint is cured, bust out a full detail, polish, seal and wax. :xyxthumbs:

[Harleyguy]

You shouldn't wax or do any correction work for at least 30 days after being painted.

[steedafocusgirl]

The Swirls are DRIVING me Crazy!!!!! They look horrid! lol

I want to :buffing::buffing::buffing::buffing: like crazy! lol






So after 1 month I can go to town on it?

[Harleyguy]

New paint still takes time to cure.Better off safe then sorry.Yes after a month you can get it back in shape.I never heard of anyone having a car in a body shop for 10 months .If the accident was that bad wonder if the car should of been totaled unless it wasn't an accident.

[steedafocusgirl]

No accident. I was all custom work that I wanted done. I bought some euro fender flares and lower wing and the body shop molded it all to the body for me. The car was totally repainted. I was A ton of work!








Thanks for the tips! ;) :props:

[Munich77]

I would wait for a couple of month to let the paint bake on. 30 to 60 days is the rule of thumb for LSP anyhow - so wait a bit and do it all in one setting.

[ASPHALT ROCKET]

You can go ahead and remove the defects without any problems.

[WRAPT C5Z06]

EDIT:

I mistaked asphalt rocket for one of harleyguy's responses.

[rohnramirez]

Even a week-old paint job is safe to run a rotary on. I would go ahead and remove the paint defects if i were you.