cptpez
04-22-2010, 08:50 AM
Hello all. This is my first time posting. I have decided to get into car-car and have just received a major delivery from Autogeek. I have been scouring the forums and have learned a great deal but I still have some questions/concerns I was hoping the community could help me with before I begin work this weekend.
Some background: I have two cars. A 2005 Audi A4 convertible (Carribic Blue) and a 2002 Land Rover Discovery (Beige/Tan). I live in South Carolina so weather is predominately hot/humid with lots of pollen in the springtime and virtually no winter. Both cars have always been garaged and the paint/finish on each is in faiyly good condition. Prior to my recent interest in car care neither car was washed/waxed very often. Typically they were washed, if at all, by the Dealer during maintenance (or, in the case of the Rover, at a drive through car wash). I would say the Audi has been hand waxed 3 to 5 times in it life, and the Land Rover probably never. (hangs head in shame). That has now ended.
I purchased the Porter Cable/Pinnacle XMT package so I have the buffer, XMT #2, XMT #1, the XMT Glaze, and the pad conditioner. As for pads, I have 1 orange, 1 white, 2 gray; a wool pad and several Microfiber bonnets. My wax is Pinnacle Signature Series II. I also picked up some Meguires clay with lubricant.
My plan of attack is:
a. thorough washing/drying
b. claying
c. polish (either just #1 or #2, then #1)
d. glaze
e. wax
Ok now my questions/concerns:
1. The Audi is in pretty good condition you can only see swirls in certain light and even then they are light. Should I try using just XMT #1 on a white pad first and see if I am happy with the result? Or considering it is 5 years of basically neglected paint should I start with #2 on orange pad, then #1 on white pad? Everything I read says go with the least aggressive combination needed so I am leaning towards trying out just #1. Trouble is I do not know what right looks like using just #1 might looks good to me but using #2, then #1 could look even better without me having tried it. The Land Rover is 8 years old so I figure #2 is a good starting point for that car.
2. There is one troublesome spot on the Audi that needs to be addressed. I have a small (maybe 3 x 1) rub/scuff mark on the corner of the rear bumper. Basically it is just a transfer of black rubber or paint. No deep scratching or real damage just a light rub that feels like it will come right off with the right product/method. So, what is the right product/method? What is the best way to remove/correct this? During claying? Should I try the #2 polish and the orange pad; Should I get some compound? Should I try correcting it by hand or with the PC? (see question #3) (what is the order in terms of aggressiveness that I should use). (NOTE I drafted this prior to gaining access to the forums Yesterday I worked on this issue. Claying did nothing for it, BUT, using #2 by hand removed the scuff completely.)
3. The bumpers on the Audi are painted plastic. Being a newbie I am worried that I may damage them with the PC. Is this a valid concern? (I have seen the picture of the folding paint) I realize that I will have to be more careful with these areas than on metal less pressure quicker section passes check for heat. Would it be better for me to just polish/wax these areas by hand?
4. The Audi has some minor body work done on a front fender. Should I be careful when using the PC in this area in case the fix job which I assume involved re-painting - was not done to the same level of quality as the rest of the car at the factory?
Thank you in advance for your assistance and advice. This forum has opened my eyes.
Some background: I have two cars. A 2005 Audi A4 convertible (Carribic Blue) and a 2002 Land Rover Discovery (Beige/Tan). I live in South Carolina so weather is predominately hot/humid with lots of pollen in the springtime and virtually no winter. Both cars have always been garaged and the paint/finish on each is in faiyly good condition. Prior to my recent interest in car care neither car was washed/waxed very often. Typically they were washed, if at all, by the Dealer during maintenance (or, in the case of the Rover, at a drive through car wash). I would say the Audi has been hand waxed 3 to 5 times in it life, and the Land Rover probably never. (hangs head in shame). That has now ended.
I purchased the Porter Cable/Pinnacle XMT package so I have the buffer, XMT #2, XMT #1, the XMT Glaze, and the pad conditioner. As for pads, I have 1 orange, 1 white, 2 gray; a wool pad and several Microfiber bonnets. My wax is Pinnacle Signature Series II. I also picked up some Meguires clay with lubricant.
My plan of attack is:
a. thorough washing/drying
b. claying
c. polish (either just #1 or #2, then #1)
d. glaze
e. wax
Ok now my questions/concerns:
1. The Audi is in pretty good condition you can only see swirls in certain light and even then they are light. Should I try using just XMT #1 on a white pad first and see if I am happy with the result? Or considering it is 5 years of basically neglected paint should I start with #2 on orange pad, then #1 on white pad? Everything I read says go with the least aggressive combination needed so I am leaning towards trying out just #1. Trouble is I do not know what right looks like using just #1 might looks good to me but using #2, then #1 could look even better without me having tried it. The Land Rover is 8 years old so I figure #2 is a good starting point for that car.
2. There is one troublesome spot on the Audi that needs to be addressed. I have a small (maybe 3 x 1) rub/scuff mark on the corner of the rear bumper. Basically it is just a transfer of black rubber or paint. No deep scratching or real damage just a light rub that feels like it will come right off with the right product/method. So, what is the right product/method? What is the best way to remove/correct this? During claying? Should I try the #2 polish and the orange pad; Should I get some compound? Should I try correcting it by hand or with the PC? (see question #3) (what is the order in terms of aggressiveness that I should use). (NOTE I drafted this prior to gaining access to the forums Yesterday I worked on this issue. Claying did nothing for it, BUT, using #2 by hand removed the scuff completely.)
3. The bumpers on the Audi are painted plastic. Being a newbie I am worried that I may damage them with the PC. Is this a valid concern? (I have seen the picture of the folding paint) I realize that I will have to be more careful with these areas than on metal less pressure quicker section passes check for heat. Would it be better for me to just polish/wax these areas by hand?
4. The Audi has some minor body work done on a front fender. Should I be careful when using the PC in this area in case the fix job which I assume involved re-painting - was not done to the same level of quality as the rest of the car at the factory?
Thank you in advance for your assistance and advice. This forum has opened my eyes.