Production Detailing and Clay

[The Critic]

So, I came across this thread on MOL a while back:

A Little Field Trip To Manheim Auctions - Car Care Forums: Meguiar's Online (http://meguiarsonline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=39860)

According to the OP, the detailing operation uses a one-step product (I think it was D151) and just switches pads depending on the condition of the paint.

In such a large scale detailing operation where volume is key, I am assuming that claying cars is out of the question?

If that's the case, what would happen if you tried to use a more aggressive one-step product such as D151 on contaminated paint without claying? Would you still achieve the same results eventually? Would the contaminants just transfer to the pad and force you to swap pads more frequently? Just curious.

[Christopher]

So, I came across this thread on MOL a while back:

A Little Field Trip To Manheim Auctions - Car Care Forums: Meguiar's Online (http://meguiarsonline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=39860)

According to the OP, the detailing operation uses a one-step product (I think it was D151) and just switches pads depending on the condition of the paint.

In such a large scale detailing operation where volume is key, I am assuming that claying cars is out of the question?

If that's the case, what would happen if you tried to use a more aggressive one-step product such as D151 on contaminated paint without claying? Would you still achieve the same results eventually? Would the contaminants just transfer to the pad and force you to swap pads more frequently? Just curious.

:bump:
I would be interested in this too!

[Lasthope05]

Some contaminates will be removed by the polish/compound but the majority of them will stay in bonded to the paint. While you can still get swirl free paint it will not be glassy smooth, which is the whole point in claying.

[cobalt9123]

Some contaminates will be removed by the polish/compound but the majority of them will stay in bonded to the paint. While you can still get swirl free paint it will not be glassy smooth, which is the whole point in claying.

Yup. And if some of the contaminants get onto your pad, they could cause these beautiful little marks:
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/773/pigtails.jpg

[tephra]

^ ouch

[Da Fats]

Found me a couple of them guys real small... real tight... looks like i picked up something at the tape line covering a pin stripe while playing with my PCXP. Knew it immediately... they don't come out easy either.

[Mike Phillips]

Here you go... I've probably posted this million times...


"Claying is the most effective way to remove above surface bonded contaminants"


The keyword is effective.


There are different types of above surface bonded contaminants and some will come off easier than others. Some may buff off, some may not, you won't know till you try. The problem is if the bonded contaminant has a strong bond to the paint then when buffing with a foam pad, especially with a tool that oscillates, the foam will simply glide over the bump, or contaminant. It might be shinier than when you started but it will still be there....

Buffing with a wool pad and a compound will remove most if not all above surface bonded contaminants because the fibers of a wool pad are a lot more aggressive than foam pads and they will tend to kick-off or shear-off little bumps on the surface, (which is what bonded contaminants mostly are), and together with some type of abrasive compound will also abrade them off.

Claying acts to sand contaminants off, it abrades anything sticking up on the surface and draws the particles onto itself, it is "usually" the most effective way to remove above surface bonded contaminants depending upon the contaminant and what the buffing process is going to be.

I talk about how clay works in this video,



Part 1 - How To Use Detailing Clay
[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gfxAesk4Po4]YouTube - Part 1 - How to use detailing clay[/video]

Part 2 - How To Use Detailing Clay
[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=opfK408uIxM]YouTube - Part 2 - How to use detailing clay[/video]

I recommend claying before sanding in this article to avoid loading your sanding discs up with contaminants...

Damp-Sanding Tools, Tips and Techniques by Mike Phillips (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/wet-sanding-cutting-buffing/25915-damp-sanding-tools-tips-techniques-mike-phillips.html)


Keep in mind before clay was introduced in the early 1990's, the normal way "Above Surface Bonded Contaminants" were removed was by using "Rubbing Compounds", not like we have today that won't put scratches into the paint, but rubbing compounds that used, sharp, hard abrasives. While they would remove above surface bonded contaminants off the surface of your cars paint, they would also remove good paint and put scratches in at the same time.

:)