Wolgang confuzion

[Pungo]

I've got an almost new swirled Black GMC Denali. The Wolfgang product line has me confused.

Do I really need all of these?

Is this the correct order of application?

Total Swirl Remover 3.0
Paintwork Polish Enhancer
Finishing Glaze 3.0
Deep Gloss Paint Sealant 3.0
Fuzion Estate Wax

Thanks,

john

[snowking724]

i would think you could do without the PPE. i think it's more of a paint cleaner. does the denali need to be clayed?

[ScottB]

you could try the two polishes TSR and FG and follow by the sealant or the wax to save some $$. Your process however would also work as desired.

[Pungo]

i would think you could do without the PPE. i think it's more of a paint cleaner. does the denali need to be clayed?

Yes I will be claying. The front of the vehicle is so big that it really takes a beating. An Easter trip left it covered with smashed bugs and other junk, much of which didn't come off with a quick washing. The lower panels on the sides also seem to easily collect solids.

I'm not sure whether to get the regular Wolfgang Clay or the Wolfgang Elastic Poly Clay Bar.

[Pungo]

you could try the two polishes TSR and FG and follow by the sealant or the wax to save some $$. Your process however would also work as desired.

So I could go:

TSR 3.0
FG 3.0
Fuzion Estate Wax

I'm also ordering a Porter Cable XP. I'm thinking that I will mostly need orange Lake Country Pads for the TSR step, with maybe some yellow pads for a few rough spots.

The Finishing Glaze would require white pads?

I may try to apply the Estate Wax by hand, but if I buffed it with the XP would I use white pads?

I'm also getting some bonnets and a lambswool leveler, but I guess that is for a final shine.

Thanks,

j.

[Mike Phillips]

So I could go:

TSR 3.0
FG 3.0
Füzion Estate Wax


The above products will tackle about 90+% of most cars in garages and driveways across America and probably the World.





I'm also ordering a Porter Cable XP. I'm thinking that I will mostly need orange Lake Country Pads for the TSR step, with maybe some yellow pads for a few rough spots.

The Finishing Glaze would require white pads?

I may try to apply the Estate Wax by hand, but if I buffed it with the XP would I use white pads?

I'm also getting some bonnets and a lambswool leveler, but I guess that is for a final shine.

Thanks,

j.


I like to apply waxes by machine but you might just consider applying the Füzion by hand, it's up to you though.

If you want to remove wax by machine, you need to apply a very thin coating, and machine does work best for applying a uniform, thin coating, plus it works the wax or sealant into and over the paint better than your hand can ever do.

To remove, maybe consider getting 6.5" foam cutting pads with your bonnets, the lambswool will work and is listed as a recommended product for this procedure but it offers no "cushion" as the backing is thin and the fibers will lay down flat. Foam, obviously offers some cushion.


The 6" Indigo Cobra Bonnets will fit over the 6.5" Cyan Hydro-Tech pads and these work pretty good with lots of stiff cushion, (which is what you want).

I've removed a lot of wax by machine so I have a lot of experience on this topic, you want stiff foam, you run the polisher on the 5.0 to 6.0 speed setting and you actually push down with firm pressure or the wax won't come off.

Removing wax by machine works best with waxes and paint sealants that dry, not WOWO products.


:)

[Pungo]

Thanks much for the prompt and comprehensive advice. More questions regarding quantities: The Yukon Denali is a monster sized vehicle. The TSR and the FG come in 8, 16, and 32 oz. bottles. How much do I need to do a complete job with some left over for patchwork and touchups?

Also, does the regular Wolfgang Clay and the Wolfgang Elastic Poly Clay Bar have different functions? Which do you recommend?

[Wax Gorilla]

I always apply Fusion by hand it gives me that extra time to inspect the work, get into all the hard places to reach like behind door handles etc. and there is less product waste !

BTW when I say "BY HAND" I mean with my bare hand - not a pad !!!

[Matt S.]

Thanks much for the prompt and comprehensive advice. More questions regarding quantities: The Yukon Denali is a monster sized vehicle. The TSR and the FG come in 8, 16, and 32 oz. bottles. How much do I need to do a complete job with some left over for patchwork and touchups?

Also, does the regular Wolfgang Clay and the Wolfgang Elastic Poly Clay Bar have different functions? Which do you recommend?

You should be able to do a Yukon with around 8oz of product....it all depends on how much product you use and how many passes are needed overall. In your case, I'd get 16oz if you want enough for 1 job and spot cleaning in the future. If you plan to polish the truck on an annual basis, it may make more sense to get 32oz bottles since swirls WILL come back. It is inevitable to some degree, although proper washing and drying techniques will prevent them greatly.

[BobbyG]

I've got an almost new swirled Black GMC Denali. The Wolfgang product line has me confused.

Do I really need all of these?

Is this the correct order of application?

Total Swirl Remover 3.0
Paintwork Polish Enhancer
Finishing Glaze 3.0
Deep Gloss Paint Sealant 3.0
Fuzion Estate Wax

Thanks,

john

I too agree, eliminate a couple of steps and save some time and money in the process.

Total Swirl Remover 3.0
Deep Gloss Paint Sealant 3.0
Fuzion Estate Wax

[Pungo]

This past weekend I started the project. After washing and claying I began the process of de-swirling a test section (passenger rear panel above rear tire). I purchased a halogen light and parked the Yukon in the shade. I started out using orange pads at a max speed of 5 on the Porter Cable. Although the light revealed an improvement there were still many swirls, so I tried the more aggressive yellow pad, sticking with the 5 speed. This time the only defects were remaining were two long marks that must be deeper scratches. I'm not sure at this point what to do about them, but decided to move to the next step to confirm the entire process.

Around here there are plenty of Spring chores to do so I can't just work on the vehicle straight through. I figure that this is going to take 3 to 5 weekends to complete this monster. I usually am cooking something on the barby while I'm outside, and of course I can't let working on the Yukon interfere with the consumption of adult beverages. My goal was to simply confirm that the process would work.

I found that the PCXP is easy to use, once I remembered to turn the thing off before lifting it off the surface. The Finishing Glaze went on easy, but I think that I will need more than 16 oz before I'm done. Then I got to the final step, the Estate wax. I applied a thin coat.

The section of the vehicle that I was doing is about two and a half 2ft by 2ft sections. I applied the wax to the whole area instead of working by section. I used the blue indigo bonnet over the cyan pad as Mike suggested to buff the wax off. I carefully picked out a brand new blue indigo microfiber cloth, threw it over my shoulder and held the light to the panel. It was like glass, with the execption of the two scratches and some smudge marks of wax that needed hand buffing.

I don't know when the tree crud got onto my blue cloth. It may have fallen onto my shoulder before I layed the cloth up there or it may have fallen onto the cloth while it was on my shoulder. I started buffing the wax smudges hard and then realized that something was wrong. I shined the light on the section and could see the new deep swirls/scratches that I had just applied.

Believe it or not, it really didn't bother me. For 30 seconds I had proven the methodology. It was time to feed the horses, finish some yard chores and pull dinner out of the smoker. I didn't touch it again, I just packed everything up and opened a bottle of wine.

I have three questions:

1) Should I start that area again all the way back to the de-swirling step or maybe just clay it and re-apply the finishing glaze?

2) Later I noticed that I had splattered something over a wide area way beyond the section that I had been working. I had been careful to wipe up any splatters after each step. I'm thinking that the bonnet buffing the wax at the last step must have created the mess. Is this a characteristic of bonnet buffing? Is there any solution?

3) Any thoughts about the scratches?

[Pungo]

I think that I've got the answers to my own questions. The scratches that the de-swirling process did not remove are what Mike refers to as RIDS. Other than ordering some M-105 and trying the yellow pad at a speed of 6 on the XP, I don't see any other option at this time. I'm not going to try the wet sanding technique that Mike describes anytime soon.

I also realize that although Mike suggested the bonnet approach he made it clear that it is not for WOWO products. Essentially the WG Fuzion Estate wax is a WOWO product, because it is very soft and the directions say that it requires no drying time. In the future I will simply hand buff it, this time ensuring that no tree crud has gotton on my cloth during the two minutes between taking it new out of the package and starting to buff the car. :-)

[Dubbin1]

The Finishing Glaze went on easy, but I think that I will need more than 16 oz before I'm done.

If that's the case then you are using way too much product.