slinging the liquid.

[marcortez]

Hello everyone.....lurker turned poster here.

Product rundown I am using.

Collinite 920 fiberglass cleaner
Collinite 870 cleaner/wax
Makita 9227C variable speed machine
Lake Country pads, orange and blue.
Polishing/cleaning up non oxidized gel coat on a fiberglass boat.

Usually, I just pour a bit of the cleaner or wax directly on the pads and
spin up the Makita. Doing this, slings cleaner all over me, into areas I don't want
the liquid and half way to my neighbors yard.

Even in the lowest Makita speed, I get this "slinging" effect.

Now, I am doing the same, except rubbing the liquid along the length of boat that I want to work on first...without spinning it up.
Still.......when powered up, it slings the cleaner/wax all over.

So the brilliant me decides.....well then, just put the cleaner on by using a hand pad.
However, that seems to me to defeat the purpose of having an electric polisher.

I suppose the question would be:.....what is the proper method to apply the runny stuff without the "sling" factor? Just use less, let it soak in????

Also, the Collinite 870 is a "cleaner/wax" so is it necessary to even use the 920 cleaner?

























c

[Southern Stang]

It sounds to me like your either trying to use too much product at once or trying to spin before you get the product spread around a little bit. Try putting the product on the pad, then taking the buffer and smearing the product somewhat on what ever your working on. Then try turning it on, and working it into your boat/car/whatever. Try that and see how that works out. I'm no pro but hope that helps bud.

[Mike Phillips]

I suppose the question would be:.....what is the proper method to apply the runny stuff without the "sling" factor? Just use less, let it soak in????




The technique is called picking up your bead using the 10 at 10 Technique.

10 @ 10 Technique = The 10 O'Clock Postion at 10 Degrees


We show this in an upcoming video on wet-sanding, cutting and buffing but it's not through editing yet.

This video shows the technique only using a Flex 3401

With a rotary buffer, most people pick up the bead of product at the 10 O'Clock position on their buffing pad, (as you're looking down on the pad), with the pad lifted or tilted at 10 degrees angle. The idea is you PULL the product into the spinning pad and as soon as you pass the end of your bead of product you lay the pad flat and start working the panel.

It's actually relative where you pick up the bead or strip of product once you master the technique as long as the strip or bead of product is being pulled into the pad, not sprayed outward.



- Performing a "Test Spot" to the paint on a 1957 Chevrolet Belair


I'll find out where were at with the video tomorrow...


:)

[JonMiles]

I used to experience the same thing with a rotary, If you feather the trigger on the makita set on 1 and spread the product you will minimize the splatter and be able to spread the polish more easily. Make sure to prep the pad and be controlled with everything and working with a rotary is easier

[Lasthope05]

One of the things with a orange pad and rotary is make sure you season the pad first. The orange pad is like a brick and doesnt absorb polish well when fresh. Mist the pad with water or QD and run the pad on the windshield at a slight angle for a bit to soften and warm up the pad.