Porter Cable 7424XP vs G110v2

[Grizzly]

For anyome that has tried both of them, what do you feel the pros and cons of the machines are?

I just bought a new XP from AG recently, decided not to purchase the G110v2 since the original G110 was not very reliable.

[ScottB]

I think anyone will do fine with either of the three newer orbitals. Dont worry about what is difference, learn the benefits of your choice. Nothing wrong with PC-XP and infact some still use the original PC will great results.

[Grizzly]

Just wanting to figure out why some folks are saying the new G110v2 is leaps and bounds ahead of the XP?

[Strokin04]

I have both the XP and G110v2 and both are great but, I do like the G110v2 better.

The G110v2 is quieter, has a rubber coating on it that seems to reduce vibration and I like that it doesn't bog down unless you really put some pressure on it.

However the PCXP is cheaper, capable of the same correction as the G110v2 and is bullet proof with a proven track record on reliability.

[Mike Phillips]

I was in the garage most of the day doing some product testing and part of it was using all the different electric polishers...

While reliability can only be proven over time, performance for all 3 brands was solid as compared to any of the first generation DA Polishers.

The Griot's definitely has the most power on paper and the most power on paint, but in the real world, in most cases, if you kept all parameters the same, pad, chemicals, same car, same garage, same lighting, same energy drink, same lunch, same extension cord, etc.

If you started on a swirled out car at 8:00am in the morning, this assumes it was washed, dried and clayed the night before so you can start out first thing on a clean, dry car, you would finish the job about the same time no matter which polisher in this range you used.

Part of the reason is that even if one has more power than the other, you still need to move the polisher slowing over the paint during the correction step and you still need to break the panels up into smaller sections and work section by section, for the correction step.

For the polishing step you still break the car up into small sections but it goes faster since you're just refining the results from the correction step.

for the sealing step you're just doing a great job of applying the wax or sealant over the surface for uniform coverage, (assuming you're doing this by machine too), but you can tackle as large of a section as you can reach or as the product on your pad will allow you to adequately coat-over.

Wipe-off and/or drying and wipe-off is a variable that depends upon the protection product you're using and can vary, but if you were to use all the same chemicals and apply all by machine to the same car in the same condition then you would finish the job about the same time no matter which machine you were using.

I might give the Griot's Garage Polisher the edge in using less time for the correction step but overall if the job is going to take 8 hours from start to finish with one tool it's going to take 8 hours from start to finish with any of the tools.

For any lurkers reading this, you can see what a section pass is and the entire process for working one section from correction, to polishing to waxing by watching these videos...

Video - How-To do a "Section Pass" when Machine Buffing (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/how-videos/24074-video-how-do-section-pass-when-machine-buffing.html)
Video - How to Remove Swirls with the Porter Cable 7424XP (http://www.palmbeachmotoring.net/ascg-videos/porter-2-20-10.html)


:)

[Grizzly]

Thanks for the replies guys.