Has anyone used WG FG by hand?

[spike]

Just wondering if anyone has used WG Finishing glaze by hand? I'll be detailing an older model mercedes ('81 or '82) with single stage dark blue paint, and I just want the paint to look glossy and wet. So I was wondering if I could apply the FG by hand, and this would greatly add to the gloss of the paint before applying Megs #26 liquid wax? Or would I have to use TSR + FG to get the finish I would like. Anyone have any experience with WG TSR and FG? I'm trying to limit my amount of work and see if FG is enough, or do I need to do the combo TSR + FG.

Also, do you think I should use the WG DGPS instead of #26? I was thinking because the car is dark in color that the #26 would look better.

Thanks in advance for your opinions!

[Mike Phillips]

First, just for the recored, Wolfgang Finishing Glaze can be used by hand or machine.


From the Wolfgang Finishing Glaze Product Description Page


Wolfgang Finishing Glaze 3.0 (http://www.autogeek.net/wolfgang-finishing-glaze.html)

Wolfgang Finishing Glaze 3.0 can be applied with a polisher or by hand.


This is a very light cleaner/polish or finishing polish, however you like to coin a term to mean the same thing.

I've never rubbed down an entire car using only FG so I'll let others chime in on that.

Because it's a very light in it's cleaning ability, if the paint on this MB has any type of medium or worse swirls and scratches then you might want to at least have something more aggressive on hand besides the FG

Do you have an electric polisher?


:)

[spike]

First, just for the recored, Wolfgang Finishing Glaze can be used by hand or machine.


From the Wolfgang Finishing Glaze Product Description Page


Wolfgang Finishing Glaze 3.0 (http://www.autogeek.net/wolfgang-finishing-glaze.html)

Wolfgang Finishing Glaze 3.0 can be applied with a polisher or by hand.


This is a very light cleaner/polish or finishing polish, however you like to coin a term to mean the same thing.

I've never rubbed down an entire car using only FG so I'll let others chime in on that.

Because it's a very light in it's cleaning ability, if the paint on this MB has any type of medium or worse swirls and scratches then you might want to at least have something more aggressive on hand besides the FG

Do you have an electric polisher?


:)

I have a flex 3401, but I have not used it on a vehicle yet, so I am nervous. I plan on perfecting my technique on my own car 1st, then doing a friend's car later (my friend owns the Mercedes). So, with what I have on hand, I was wondering if I could improve the paint by hand, then use the flex when I am more skilled at it, or is this just going to have to be a machine job...I just don't know. I just wondered if I could make a noticable difference in the oxidized paint by hand to make my friend happy (who is not too hard to please), or do I need a crash course in polishing by machine to really see a difference?

[Mike Phillips]

So, with what I have on hand, I was wondering if I could improve the paint by hand, then use the flex when I am more skilled at it, or is this just going to have to be a machine job...I just don't know.

I just wondered if I could make a noticeable difference in the oxidized paint by hand to make my friend happy (who is not too hard to please),


Dark, oxidized single stage paints are probably the easiest car on the planet earth to create a dramatic before and after results. You can rub this paint out by hand using the Wolfgang Finishing glaze and get great results.

For light cleaning ability use it with a soft, foam applicator pad and for a more aggressive action use a piece of terry cloth. I usually take a 100% cotton towel and cut out a section about 5-6 inches square and then fold it over and that becomes my applicator pad. I keep the towel around for cutting up new piece as I need them or future projects.

Wash first and skip claying.

If working by hand, only work a small section at a time. It's important that you remove all the dead oxidized paint evenly for an even appearance and you can't do this if you try to rub a half a hood at one time. So break it up into sections, think of a checkerboard or a patchwork quilt and how they are sectioned.




or do I need a crash course in polishing by machine to really see a difference?


One thing for sure, with an older single stage paint, you'll want to avoid buffing on top of any raised body lines, edges or corners as it will be very easy to burn through the paint.

In fact, yo might want to inspect the paint before you work on it for places where others that have gone before you have already burned through the paint.


:)

[spike]

Thank you so much Mike. You are a wealth of info!!