Gold Jewelling Pad

[rohnramirez]

Hello AG and fellow forum members. I'm pretty new (as a member), and i recently purchased the pcxp kit and decided to get the these pads with the kit - 2 Oranges, a Coarse Green, a White and a Gold; also got the purple wool pad and some cobra mf bonnets. I understand how the other pads work, but i'm just really curious of the gold pad. I have been searching the forum looking for some information on how to maximize the benefits of using the softest foam pad to no avail. Any insight from the gods of the detailing world? How do we use this pad..and with what?

Here's my plan, assuming i'm done with washing, cleaning, claying, etc.:
1. m105 on the wool pad
2 m105 on the orange pad
3. m205 on the orange pad
3. m205 on the coarse green pad
4. m205 on the gold pad

What should i expect from this? This is more like practice in itself and i am also not sure if i'm just not going to reap any benefits over too much polishing..LOL. It might just be overkill, but, i'm a perfectionist by nature aside from being a car enthusiast...quite O.C. if you would like to put it.

Thank you!

[02blackout]

Expect some really worn down paint lol. Why so much buffing?
Its simply 105/OJ then 205/white.

[zinc02gt]

Wool needs to be left to rotary. Yellow CCS pads are pretty good on a PC.

Just do 105/orange, 205/white and you'll be solid.

The gold jeweling pad is more for rotary because it's so soft. Hell, when I jewel the paint I use a blue CCS pad and Ultrafina. Works just fine for me, but then again it's on a rotary.

[rohnramirez]

Expect some really worn down paint lol. Why so much buffing?
Its simply 105/OJ then 205/white.

My paint is 28 coats thick (8 coats of base, 9 coats of pearl and 11 coats of clear)...well still about just a stack of 3-4 sheets of paper. It's freshly painted, 2months old, and 1month has passed since it has been wet-sanded. My problem is, the rotary left swirl marks. So that's why i'm planning to do some compounding and polishing. Mike placed a copy of the picture on my album (i haven't figured out how to get there either).

Does it mean i have no use for the gold jewelling pad? what a waste..was hoping i could really get an eye-blinding shine with it.

[rohnramirez]

Forgot to mention. It was on a show last weekend. I just hid the swirlmarks with a glaze cause i still don't have the DA yet. Another reason why i really want to do so much polishing. I want it to outshine at least most of the other entries during shows.

[02blackout]

Haha well as zinc and I said, just use 105/oj and 105/white (dont forget to do IPA wipedowns after 105 and 205). Like he said, wool is for the rotary. Thats why I didnt know anything about it cause I use a PC. Just use those to correct the paint, put some sealant on, then put 3 coats of wax on in 24hr intervals so each coat can fully cure.

[rohnramirez]

oh my..so the purple wool i bought extra for the pc is useless? including the gold pad i got? Not good news at all..hope i can find a use for it somehow.

Many thanks for your replies.

[02blackout]

Yep, jeez you named like 5 different steps. Hope we saved you some time, product, and money!

[rohnramirez]

i feel like :bash:

i just wasted money and could've just gotten extra oranges instead. :doh: Well,another noob learning things the hard-way.

I'm just waiting for my :pc7424: to start my project.:buffing:

[acc1079]

Just keep them, the more you get into it, the more likely you will pick up a rotary down the road, then you CAN use them.

Or, I am sure you can find someone to trade them to for some other type of product.

[rohnramirez]

Almost all of you reside in the US or Canada. I'm in Asia. The shipping charges is a killer on its own. I'm having it shipped there and hand carried by my bestfriend, it's been years since i've been there.

Maybe AG has some ideas where it would be best to use the purple wool pad and gold jewel pad. Mike, Meghan, killr..any thoughts?

[DLB]

Looked at the picture in your gallery. Nice color!

OK, so you are in Asia and what you have to work with really (as far as polishing) with the PCXP is: 2 oranges, 1 course green, and 1 white pad.
Your biggest dilemma isn't going to be the gold pad, it is going to be having enough of the others.

I have a question first off though. What pads were you (or the painter) using with the rotary and how was the paint ultimately finished out there? I wouldn't think that you needed to hit it with M105 just after being "finished" out, unless it wasn't really finished out, and the rotary was only used with a course wool to remove the sanding marks.

That said - take the least aggressive approach first. Again, with it being a fresh paint job, and already having some polishing done, I would think you should be able to start the refining stage, but I haven't seen the paint and don't know how bad it really is.

Knowing no more than I do right now, I would suggest starting with the white pad and M205, do an IPA wipe, and inspect. If still no good, move to the course green pad and M205. If that wasn't working, you could try the green and M105, but I would probably just go ahead with the orange then. Definitely do some test spots and inspect thoroughly to see if you are getting the correction you want.

If the paint is as bad you make it sound, I would suggest you or anyone comfortable with the rotary trying out the PFW to test the results there with the M105 to start - but seeing how the paint is swirled after the rotary use the first time, I'd be very discriminate on the action taken there.

The Gold Pad with your PC can be used for applying waxes and sealants with ease. It has no cut and will spread thinner than you can likely do by hand.

DLB

[rohnramirez]

Looked at the picture in your gallery. Nice color!
DLB

Thanks!!! :dblthumb2:




I have a question first off though. What pads were you (or the painter) using with the rotary and how was the paint ultimately finished out there? I wouldn't think that you needed to hit it with M105 just after being "finished" out, unless it wasn't really finished out, and the rotary was only used with a course wool to remove the sanding marks.
DLB

You hit that nail right on the head! Yeah it was wetsanded with 2000 then compounded with a 1500 grit capable chemical on a wool pad of a rotary. I know it doesn't sound right, but that's how they did it. Although the paint is clearer now, they left a lot of swirl marks that aren't that visible..but i want to get rid of all the scratches to bring out the real beauty of the paint. On an angle with a light you can see small scratches on the clear coat...im just OC and want everything perfect.




That said - take the least aggressive approach first. Again, with it being a fresh paint job, and already having some polishing done, I would think you should be able to start the refining stage, but I haven't seen the paint and don't know how bad it really is.

Knowing no more than I do right now, I would suggest starting with the white pad and M205, do an IPA wipe, and inspect. If still no good, move to the course green pad and M205. If that wasn't working, you could try the green and M105, but I would probably just go ahead with the orange then. Definitely do some test spots and inspect thoroughly to see if you are getting the correction you want.
DLB


:iagree:Will do just that! Many thanks!

[Blackthorn One]

I have used the Kompressor gold jeweling pad. I have definitely seen a difference after using the black or dark gray pad. I have especially noticed the difference on black. I happened to use System One polish, but I think any super fine polish would do. Perhaps a glaze. I Think it makes a bigger difference in shine than the difference between the shine of most waxes. So those are my observations. Use it only on your best cars. DD aren't worth the extra time involved in the extra buffing step.

[Mike Phillips]

Forgot to mention. It was on a show last weekend. I just hid the swirl marks with a glaze cause i still don't have the DA yet.


If you were able to fill in swirls with a glaze, this is a good sign, it means they are likely very light or shallow. That means it shouldn't take much to remove them.



Another reason why i really want to do so much polishing. I want it to outshine at least most of the other entries during shows.

Good thinking, we're here to help you shine and outshine the competition...



oh my..so the purple wool i bought extra for the PC is useless?

The fibers are too long to do any correction work to most paints, they really work best on a rotary buffer.




including the gold pad i got? Not good news at all..hope i can find a use for it somehow.

Many thanks for your replies.


The gold foam formula is very soft and with a PC can be used for light polishing or spreading a non-abrasive glaze or polish or spreading a finishing wax or finishing sealant or even finishing hybrid.

See this article,
How To Choose The Right Wax or Paint Sealant for your Detailing Project (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/hot-topics-frequently-asked-questions/23263-how-choose-right-wax-paint-sealant-your-detailing-project.html)


As for process, other's have given your a pretty good recipe to follow...

The key to removing swirls using a PC is to only work a small section at at time and follow the techniques shared in this video...

How to Remove Swirls with the Porter Cable 7424XP (http://www.palmbeachmotoring.net/ascg-videos/porter-2-20-10.html)





:)