Overwhelmed with the PC

[GG4411]

Hey Mike,
I am just getting into detailing and this is my current setup (excluding my clar bar kit, and another cobra towel kit).

http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn121/gg4411/001-17.jpg

Anyway, I am really thinking about getting a PC, but I am completely overwhelmed with the different combinations of pads, compounds, sealants, glazes, etc that you can put on the car.

So my questions are:
Do you think I need a PC given my current setup? (By the way, my car is brand new and most likely will not have any deep scratches, just mainly light swirls)

If yes, what setup would you recommend?
Lastly, when do I use the PC with all of the compounds in my full detailing session?

Thanks alot Mike.

[Joshs2013MSAltimaSL]

Hey Mike,
I am just getting into detailing and this is my current setup (excluding my clar bar kit, and another cobra towel kit).

http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn121/gg4411/001-17.jpg

Anyway, I am really thinking about getting a PC, but I am completely overwhelmed with the different combinations of pads, compounds, sealants, glazes, etc that you can put on the car.

So my questions are:
Do you think I need a PC given my current setup? (By the way, my car is brand new and most likely will not have any deep scratches, just mainly light swirls)

If yes, what setup would you recommend?
Lastly, when do I use the PC with all of the compounds in my full detailing session?

Thanks alot Mike.

Hi Mike! Welcome to the forum!

It looks like you have a good start there. If you want to do any correction at all (and not kill your arms), you will need to get a machine. I started with a PC last year and it was great! It's very easy to use and can't harm your paint. What kind of car do you have? There are a lot of machine/polish starter kits available here on AG that should make your decision a little easier should you decide to get a machine.

[GG4411]

Hi there,

I have a 2010 Mustang in Black, so the swirls can be a real pain the arse if you know what I mean.

[DARK HORSE]

Hi there,

I have a 2010 Mustang in Black, so the swirls can be a real pain the arse if you know what I mean.

Welcome to the nut house! Black is a full time job but it is beautiful if maintained correctly. (w/ a machine):props:

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/500/medium/IMG_01924.JPG

[Harleyguy]

Like Josh said it all depends on how deep you want to get into swirl removal.Since it is a new car annd more then likely you will only doing your car and maybe a few other cars then you certainly can get away with a PC.Since you have a black car it's going to show every swirl.You can't go wrong with the megs products 105/205 are very user friendly and you will be able to achive a great finish with what you have and the megs.Look into one of the PCXP kits that comes with the ccs pads

[jmp09fg2]

Welcome! Take a look at this Meguiars Porter Cable Ultra Polish Kit with 5.5 Inch Pads, Meguiar's Mirror Glaze Polishing Kit, Meguiars polishes, Porter Cable 7424 Mirror Glaze (http://www.autogeek.net/porter-cable-meguiars-kit.html) . That combo seems to be the most generic/worry free one. The only thing I don't like about that one is that it doesn't come with white ccs but that can be solved.

[DARK HORSE]

Like Josh said it all depends on how deep you want to get into swirl removal.Since it is a new car annd more then likely you will only doing your car and maybe a few other cars then you certainly can get away with a PC.Since you have a black car it's going to show every swirl.You can't go wrong with the megs products 105/205 are very user friendly and you will be able to achive a great finish with what you have and the megs.Look into one of the PCXP kits that comes with the ccs pads

On my black mustang I use a PC with m105/m205 and Menzerna PO 85rd to really gloss up (jewel) the paint. Typically I use approximately 4-5 of each the orange, white, and blue Lake Counrty CCS pads. :xyxthumbs:

[GG4411]

Thanks for all of the suggestions so far!

But do I use the PC with the 105/205 after washing and claying? If so, after using the 105/205 do I follow up with the klasse twins and a layer of souveran? Thanks again

[Joshs2013MSAltimaSL]

Thanks for all of the suggestions so far!

But do I use the PC with the 105/205 after washing and claying? If so, after using the 105/205 do I follow up with the klasse twins and a layer of souveran? Thanks again

After washing and claying, you would start with 105/orange until you reach the correction level desired and then move down to 205/white to clean up the 105 and then finally a finishing polish with a blue CCS pad to clean everything up. Top it off with your Souveran and you're good to go!

[Mike Phillips]

Hey Mike,

Anyway, I am really thinking about getting a PC, but I am completely overwhelmed with the different combinations of pads, compounds, sealants, glazes, etc that you can put on the car.

So my questions are:
Do you think I need a PC given my current setup? (By the way, my car is brand new and most likely will not have any deep scratches, just mainly light swirls)

If yes, what setup would you recommend?
Lastly, when do I use the PC with all of the compounds in my full detailing session?

Thanks alot Mike.

This Sunday there will be a new commercial showing on Two Guys Garage on how to use the Porter Cable, that's the "Bumper Commercial", it's 90 seconds long and it's purpose is to educate the TV audience world, (different than the forum world), what swirls are and that working by machine is easier and faster than working by hand.

After that commercial launches we will be launching our new Porter Cable 7424XP how-to video. I've been typing about how to do a Test Spot since 1994 when I first started posting to the Internet, I teach it in all my classes and Richard Lin and I demonstrated it in our DVD on how to use the PC.

Our new PC video shows step by step how to do a Test Spot using a Porter Cable 7424XP and these steps would apply to both the Griot's Garage ROP and to the Meguiar's G110v2 and any electric polisher for that matter.

So the video shows you how to use the tool, how to use the different products with the different pads. How to check your results and then if the results are good, you simply duplicate that process, over and over to the different panels of the car until you finish the entire car, at least for the swirl removing steps and the final polishing steps because for these steps you only work small sections at a time. So the Test Spot section is the same basic size section you repeat.

If you watch this video it will show you the proper techniques for removing swirls. It's really not that hard and I think I cover everything in detail.

Then when you get to the paint where you're ready to apply a wax or a paint sealant, I show how to apply a paint sealant by machine and if you choose to do it this way then you can tackle as large a section as you want, you don't limit your work area to a small section. The reason you have to work small sections at a time when removing swirls is because modern clear coat paints tend to be hard so you have to focus on a small area a time.

If your car's paint is in excellent condition with only light or shallow swirls, for the swirl removal step you still will only work small sections at a time regardless of how shallow or deep the swirls are.

Anyway, I'm had to finally have a instructional video going up on the Internet that will show how to do a Test Spot and thus how to remove swirls so I won't have to type about it with a keyboard all the time.

Also, the techniques in this video can be used with any foam pad or any chemical line that's recommended for use with a DA Polisher.

As to your question, should you get a PC?

That's up to you but I've taught thousands of people how to move their hand to apply compounds and paint cleaners to remove swirls and scratches and right after that shown them how to use a PC and almost without exception everyone wants to move up to machine polishing.

It's really not that hard to do... this is my son working some paint sealant over the Batmobile with a G110 and a finishing pad and doing a great job.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/715/RandBuffingBatmobile1.jpg





Welcome to the nut house! Black is a full time job but it is beautiful if maintained correctly. (w/ a machine):props:

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/500/medium/IMG_01924.JPG


That is a very cool picture!



Like Josh said it all depends on how deep you want to get into swirl removal.


That is a very accurate statement and a pun at the same time.

Removing swirls by machine over an average sized passenger car will take about 6 hours from the time you turn the polisher on and then finish the swirl removal step. This does not include washing, drying, claying before removing the swirls and this does not include any final machine polishing, applying a paint sealant or wax and then wiping the sealant or wax off.

You might think 6 hours is a long time but it's going to be a lot longer and require a lot more work do remove the swirls by hand. If you haven't already, read through the below thread and note in order to get machine quality results on the side I did by hand I applied the compound 3 times to each small section, the swirl remover 3 times to each small section, that's a lot of rubbing and that's only half the hood. I could have only applied the compound and swirl mark remover one time each but it would not have removed all the swirls and scratches like one application of each product did using the PC 7424XP

Man versus Machine (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/faq/20257-man-versus-machine.html)

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/728/Lincoln046.jpg




Thanks for all of the suggestions so far!

But do I use the PC with the 105/205 after washing and claying? If so, after using the 105/205 do I follow up with the klasse twins and a layer of souveran? Thanks again


Here's the order but note, if you're new to machine polishing, I always recommend just tackling a single panel your first time so you don't get burnt out. For example, just machine clean, polish and wax the hood on a Saturday.

Wash & Dry
Inspect paint with sense of touch and clay if needed
Inspect for swirls, if detected do a TEST SPOT
After you prove your system and technique to one small section duplicate that process over the rest of that panel or the entire car.

It's when you do your test spot you'll discover if you need to use M105 or if by chance maybe just need M205 or fill in the blank for the chemical you're using.

Normally you test the least aggressive pad and product to get the job done. If the first combination of pad and product isn't working fast enough or effectively enough then you can always substitute a more aggressive pad or product or both and test again.

You test until you dial-in a system that make the paint look GREAT to that one small section and then you duplicate that process over the rest of the car. A successful test spot give you the confidence to tackle the entire car.

The last thing you want to do is buff out your car's paint with a pad and product only to wipe the car down, pull it into the sun or inspect in good light and find out the paint doesn't look good or at least how you hoped and expected.

Once you figure out a system that works on your car you can use that system any time in the future for touch-ups, you don't have to keep doing a test spot on a car you've already figured out a successful system for.

Anytime you take on a new project, that is you tack on a car that you've NEVER worked on the paint before, then you do a Test Spot again. It's all about making sure your pads of choice, your products or chemicals of choice, your tool of choice and yes.. your skill and technique for using all of these works to make the paint look great. Then you move forward.

Better safe than sorry and I know when you read the above that it can make so much sense but I've worked with so many people that have just went out to their garage and detailed their car only to find out that after the final wipe off and inspection the paint only looked marginally better and in some cases worse.


If you read through this article you'll see that I rated the PC style polishers the easiest to learn how to use.


How to choose the right polisher for your detailing project (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/ask-expert-featuring-mike-phillips/22263-how-choose-right-polisher-your-detailing-project.html)


:)

[Shade Tree]

Hang on....

:D

:laughing:

[LincolnZephyr2006]

Guys... he said his car was brand new so most likely he will just need m205 since 105 might be a bit aggressive especially since the car is new. I would go 205 and Menz. 85rd to start with....

And if it is a daily driver then def. not the 105

[Joshs2013MSAltimaSL]

Guys... he said his car was brand new so most likely he will just need m205 since 105 might be a bit aggressive especially since the car is new. I would go 205 and Menz. 85rd to start with....

And if it is a daily driver then def. not the 105

What does being a daily driver have to do with it? If anything that means it would have more defects and need a more aggressive combo. Mustangs can come with harder clears and 105 might be necessary. It all depends on how much the dealership hacked it up and how it looks now.

You will need to do a test spot to see. 205 is not that strong. Perhaps 105 on a white pad would work.

[Mike Phillips]

Guys... he said his car was brand new so most likely he will just need m205




You will need to do a test spot to see. 205 is not that strong. Perhaps 105 on a white pad would work.



Took me a few seconds to type out my reply on the first page but I touched on both the topics you both raised in your replies.


:dblthumb2:

[DARK HORSE]

What does being a daily driver have to do with it? If anything that means it would have more defects and need a more aggressive combo. Mustangs can come with harder clears and 105 might be necessary. It all depends on how much the dealership hacked it up and how it looks now.

You will need to do a test spot to see. 205 is not that strong. Perhaps 105 on a white pad would work.

:iagree:100%
I can tell you from experience with my 2009 Mustang that the clear is very hard. It just laughs at 205 when it comes to swirl removal. Like Josh said "You will need to do a test spot to see. 205 is not that strong. Perhaps 105 on a white pad would work" When I picked up my car brand new from the dealer, it definitely had a lot of dealer installed swirls, day one. I had to step up to m105 to fully achieve a swirl removal that satisfies me. However as has been said many times "definitely do a test spot and start with the least aggressive combo first". Work your way up in aggressiveness as needed. However as hard as the clear coat is on your Mustang you will probably need m105 w/ at least a white pad and probably if not now in the future an orange pad.