Finding the right products for the right price.

[Camaro2010]

All right, I know what you all will say about this, but I need some expert advice. I going to start detailing cars slowly, but don't have a lot of experience only on my car, so I’m going to start off slow and just do interior and exterior detailing with exterior being wash, some pre-wax cleaning, and hand waxing. My only problem is I always do the right thing and want to use the best products and most likely spend way to much money & time on each car to make a profit. I know I can work on the time, but my question is what products are cost effective and work good to keep my product cost down? Here is what I have in my own stock pile which isn’t much, but before I spend a few hundred dollars to get start I thought I would get the pros advice. Also probably just be doing friends and neighbors 1-2 cars a week to start in my spare time and hopefully have 2-3 days a week to spend more time on detailing.

Here is what I currently have:
Porter Cable 7424XP, Wolfgang Total Swirl Remover 3.0, Wolfgang Finishing Glaze 3.0, Wolfgang Deep Gloss Paint Sealant 3.0, Wolfgang Deep Gloss Spritz Sealant, CCS 6.5 inch Orange Light Cutting Pad, CCS 6.5 inch White Polishing Pad, CCS 6.5 inch Blue Finessing Pad, Microfiber Towels, Pinnacle Souverän™ Paste Wax, 2-bucket wash system with grit gaurds, Wolfgang Tire & Wheel Cleaner, Daytona Speed Master Wheel Brush, Black Again

What I’m looking to get: (So please give me your option)
Meguiars #105?
XMT 360?
Pinnacle Liquid Spray Wax
Klasse High Gloss Sealant Glaze
Klasse AIO Polish
More Microfiber towels
Vacuums & Blowers by Metro-Question? (Is it worth the money? Which one would you recommend?)
Pinnacle Paintwork Cleansing Lotion
Wolfgang Paintwork Polish Enhancer
DP Total Interior Cleaner
DP Interior Surface Protectant
DP Krystal Vision Glass Cleaner

Let me know what you think.

[PAR Detailing]

Possibly a few more pads?
I like the 105 I think youll need it.
CLAY get some clay! Claying a car is a tangible difference you can make to a vehicle. You can have the owner feel the paint and let him feel how smooth his car is. It is definitely worth it! IMO
I currently use megs D151 which is an AIO and it is so quick and easy. If you are trying to get started and be time efficient use this stuff. It cleans the paint a little bit it polishes a little bit and it leaves protection so you dont have to wax or seal it if you dont want to or arent getting paid enough to spend the product.

The key is to do quality work and make enough to make it profitable and worth it for you after your expenses. I know your starting out keep that in mind but dont sell yourself short either. If you do quality work then charge what you think is fair. The Supply and Demand equation will also help you out in figuring out what to charge after a while.

Lastly, best of luck to you! I wish you all the best with the endevor!
Jon

[loudog2]

What I’m looking to get: (So please give me your option)
Meguiars #105?
XMT 360?
Pinnacle Liquid Spray Wax
Klasse High Gloss Sealant Glaze
Klasse AIO Polish
More Microfiber towels
Vacuums & Blowers by Metro-Question? (Is it worth the money? Which one would you recommend?)
Pinnacle Paintwork Cleansing Lotion
Wolfgang Paintwork Polish Enhancer
DP Total Interior Cleaner
DP Interior Surface Protectant
DP Krystal Vision Glass Cleaner

Let me know what you think.
-Definitely get 105 for tough jobs
-just use 106FA or your finishing glaze to correct. No need to spend the money
-No need for the klasse, maybe some Menzerna product instead
-You can never have enough microfiber
-Vac can come in handy if you can afford it
-Get one of the cleansing lotions. No need for both(pinnacle CL and wolfgang PPE)
-you need a interior cleaner or a APC cleaner.
-IMO I like 303 protectant
-Stoners is a cheaper alternative. I do have the Krystal vision, it works great. I wait for it to go on BOGO before I buy it.

[DLB]

My http://slickorange.com/board/icon/2cents.gif.

Meguiars #105 - This will render itself useless unless you are planning on doing heavy corrections. You said you just wanted to do "wash, some pre-wax cleaning, and hand waxing." If that's the case, you don't need this. If you decide to do some minor correction, you have the WG twins that should be able to take care of it. Put this on hold until you decide to tackle heavy corrections, and then pick it up in conjunction with the 205.

XMT 360 - Good all in one. Would buy this.

Pinnacle Liquid Spray Wax - If you are going to offer a spray wax option, then this makes sense.

Klasse High Gloss Sealant Glaze - Skip
Klasse AIO Polish - Skip. You can pick these up later when you want to try different products, etc. But for just getting the basics covered, you don't need them.

More Microfiber towels - Always.

Vacuums & Blowers by Metro-Question? (Is it worth the money? Which one would you recommend?) - I love my Vac-N-Blo Sr., but if you are only going to have 1 vac, get a Wet/Dry.

Pinnacle Paintwork Cleansing Lotion - Good choice.

Wolfgang Paintwork Polish Enhancer - Skip - the above is already covering this area like loudog said.

DP Total Interior Cleaner - See below.
DP Interior Surface Protectant - Love this combo. The TIC I just bought a gallon of. The protectant goes a looooong ways.

DP Krystal Vision Glass Cleaner - there are cheaper options, but if you want to try this, it will work just fine.

On top of that - pick up more pads and some pad cleaner.
Like JohnnyBob said, claying will really help with the cleaning, and is relatively cheap. Pick up some ONR that you can use as a lube and for waterless washes when the weather isn't cooperating.

DLB

[Mike Phillips]

There's two general groups or types of detailing, production work and show car work.


Production Work = Daily Drivers
Show Car Work = Special Interest Cars

If you're just starting out, then stick to production work, that is buffing out daily drivers and for these you really don't want to be doing a multiple-step process, you want to wash the car, clay the paint and use a one-step cleaner/wax. Focus on making the paint shiny, not 100% swirl removal. It's about the "Time Factor" and what people with daily drivers are willing to pay.

If you're customer wants the inside cleaned and dressed and the outside washed and waxed, the you really don't have time to be doing multiple-step procedures to the exterior as washing, claying and using a one-step will already take a good amount of time and you'll still need to do the interior, glass, tires and trim.

If you're doing show car work, then you shouldn't be doing the interior, at least not on the same day and if you do the interior, that's a separate charge from the exterior. Doing show car work, to whatever level or extreme, is going to take you all day, so separate your work and how you charge.

I never liked doing interiors and really only like working on special interest cars. Because people that own special interest cars are mostly interested in having the outside look great you don't usually have to do their interiors and usually the interiors are in pretty good shape, at least they're not like the interior of a Dodge Caravan used to haul kids around every day.

The trend I always see on discussion forums is when someone gets the passion to start getting into detailing as a part time business they carry over what they do to their own car, (show car detailing), to their customer's cars but usually when you're first starting out you're not doing show car work, you're doing daily drivers.

So think through the market you want to go after and if you're going to start out doing daily drivers then get a good one-step cleaner/wax and use either a DA Polisher or the Flex 3401 as your tool of choice and then vary your pad's aggressiveness to maximize the ability of the cleaner/wax will still finishing out to an acceptable appearance and you figure this out when you do a test spot.

What I mean by that is if the finish is really neglected you might be able to use a cutting pad to give your cleaner/wax more bite and thus enable you to work faster but make sure by doing a test spot that it isn't too aggressive that it's leaving a haze in the paint. You do this with a Test Spot.

If the pad is too aggressive to leave a nice finish then switch to a polishing pad and work slower but then you don't have to do a second step to remove any haze.

Production detailing is really about time, that is doing the job well, but also doing the job as fast as you can.

Show Car Detailing is about time also but you have to charge enough that you're happy with your profit and you take the time required to do each step correctly.

You can never simply move the polisher faster over the paint to get the job done faster as that won't work.

There's nothing wrong with doing production detailing and it's actually the right way to cut your teeth in this business. It's better learn and make mistakes on a Silver Ford Taurus than Black Dodge Viper.

:D

[Camaro2010]

Possibly a few more pads?
I like the 105 I think youll need it.
CLAY get some clay! Claying a car is a tangible difference you can make to a vehicle. You can have the owner feel the paint and let him feel how smooth his car is. It is definitely worth it! IMO
I currently use megs D151 which is an AIO and it is so quick and easy. If you are trying to get started and be time efficient use this stuff. It cleans the paint a little bit it polishes a little bit and it leaves protection so you dont have to wax or seal it if you dont want to or arent getting paid enough to spend the product.

The key is to do quality work and make enough to make it profitable and worth it for you after your expenses. I know your starting out keep that in mind but dont sell yourself short either. If you do quality work then charge what you think is fair. The Supply and Demand equation will also help you out in figuring out what to charge after a while.

Lastly, best of luck to you! I wish you all the best with the endevor!
Jon
Jon,
Thanks for your input. I will purchase some clay. I planned on doing that anyway, just left it out. D151 looks good.
Here is what I have as far as my charging rate? Still debating on price.
Emergency Eyewash & Shower Program 1. Premium Wash Package - (Int. and Ext. cleaning)

(S-$ 45) (M-$55) (L-$65) (1-1.5/hrs)
· Full exterior pre-rinse and hand wash (using 2-3 bucket method)
· Wheels, wells and tires cleaned and dressed
· Hand dried with premium microfiber drying towels
· Door jams wiped down
· Interior vacuumed
· Wipe dash & center console
· All glass cleaned inside and out
2. Premium Wax Package –

(S-$90) (M-$110) (L-$130) (2-2.5hrs)
· Package #1 Plus
o Polish Enhancer – This provides two primary benefits.
ú Restores gloss and clarity
ú Creates a clean surface to which your choice of wax or paint sealant will bond or adhere
o High quality Carnauba wax or Paint Sealant (Customers choice)

3Deluxe Wash & Wax Package –

(S-$135) (M-$165) (L-$195) (3-4hrs)
· Package 1 plus
o Vacuum all crevasses & vents brushed
o Center Console, dash and seats wiped down w/ Interior cleaner & Surface Protectant
o Claying or Cleaner to prep car’s paint (Customers choice)
o High quality Carnauba wax or Paint Sealant (Customers choice)

A La Carte Service: (Below items need to be added to Premium Wash Package)
S – M - L
· Claying- $30 - $45 - $60
· Polish Enhancer- $30 - $45 - $60
· High quality Carnauba wax - $30 - $45 - $60
· Paint Sealant- $30 - $45 - $60
· Interior leather cleaning & Surface Protectant- $30 - $45 - $60
· Exterior Plastic trim cleaned and dressed- $20 - $30 - $40
· Liquid Spray wax- $45 - $55 - $60
o Should be applied after every 4th wash to refresh the gloss.
· Tires cleaned and dressed $5 - $8 - $10

[Camaro2010]

-Definitely get 105 for tough jobs
-just use 106FA or your finishing glaze to correct. No need to spend the money
-No need for the klasse, maybe some Menzerna product instead
-You can never have enough microfiber
-Vac can come in handy if you can afford it
-Get one of the cleansing lotions. No need for both(pinnacle CL and wolfgang PPE)
-you need a interior cleaner or a APC cleaner.
-IMO I like 303 protectant
-Stoners is a cheaper alternative. I do have the Krystal vision, it works great. I wait for it to go on BOGO before I buy it.

Will defiantly try the 106FA and 303. Thanks for your input.

[Camaro2010]

My http://slickorange.com/board/icon/2cents.gif.

Meguiars #105 - This will render itself useless unless you are planning on doing heavy corrections. You said you just wanted to do "wash, some pre-wax cleaning, and hand waxing." If that's the case, you don't need this. If you decide to do some minor correction, you have the WG twins that should be able to take care of it. Put this on hold until you decide to tackle heavy corrections, and then pick it up in conjunction with the 205.

XMT 360 - Good all in one. Would buy this.

Pinnacle Liquid Spray Wax - If you are going to offer a spray wax option, then this makes sense.

Klasse High Gloss Sealant Glaze - Skip
Klasse AIO Polish - Skip. You can pick these up later when you want to try different products, etc. But for just getting the basics covered, you don't need them.

More Microfiber towels - Always.

Vacuums & Blowers by Metro-Question? (Is it worth the money? Which one would you recommend?) - I love my Vac-N-Blo Sr., but if you are only going to have 1 vac, get a Wet/Dry.

Pinnacle Paintwork Cleansing Lotion - Good choice.

Wolfgang Paintwork Polish Enhancer - Skip - the above is already covering this area like loudog said.

DP Total Interior Cleaner - See below.
DP Interior Surface Protectant - Love this combo. The TIC I just bought a gallon of. The protectant goes a looooong ways.

DP Krystal Vision Glass Cleaner - there are cheaper options, but if you want to try this, it will work just fine.

On top of that - pick up more pads and some pad cleaner.
Like JohnnyBob said, claying will really help with the cleaning, and is relatively cheap. Pick up some ONR that you can use as a lube and for waterless washes when the weather isn't cooperating.

DLB


DLB thanks for your input. Questions? what type of Vac-N-Blo would you suggest? Is teh 4hp big enough? I like the ideal of blowing down the car to remove any hidden water before waxing. This always gets me.

[loudog2]

Will Emergency Eyewash & Shower Program defiantly try the 106FA and 303. Thanks for your input.
For that program(one step) I would probally go for the menzerna power finish 203 w/a soft green LC pad. I was just saying 106FA for yourself. The power finish removes a little more than the 106FA, and finishes down pretty good. You can use the 106FA s a one step if the paint isn't too bad.

[DLB]

DLB thanks for your input. Questions? what type of Vac-N-Blo would you suggest? Is teh 4hp big enough? I like the ideal of blowing down the car to remove any hidden water before waxing. This always gets me.
I bought my Vac-N-Blo with the same intent. However, there is no way to keep it from blowing dirt back out of the hoses. It of course doesn't blow the stuff sitting in the collection bag - but anything in the hoses or nozzles are fair game to be blown onto the paint. So I don't use mine for blowing out cracks.

The 4hp is great. Tons of lift.

DLB

[zinc02gt]

All right, I know what you all will say about this, but I need some expert advice. I going to start detailing cars slowly, but don't have a lot of experience only on my car, so I’m going to start off slow and just do interior and exterior detailing with exterior being wash, some pre-wax cleaning, and hand waxing. My only problem is I always do the right thing and want to use the best products and most likely spend way to much money & time on each car to make a profit. I know I can work on the time, but my question is what products are cost effective and work good to keep my product cost down? Here is what I have in my own stock pile which isn’t much, but before I spend a few hundred dollars to get start I thought I would get the pros advice. Also probably just be doing friends and neighbors 1-2 cars a week to start in my spare time and hopefully have 2-3 days a week to spend more time on detailing.

Here is what I currently have:
Porter Cable 7424XP, Wolfgang Total Swirl Remover 3.0, Wolfgang Finishing Glaze 3.0, Wolfgang Deep Gloss Paint Sealant 3.0, Wolfgang Deep Gloss Spritz Sealant, CCS 6.5 inch Orange Light Cutting Pad, CCS 6.5 inch White Polishing Pad, CCS 6.5 inch Blue Finessing Pad, Microfiber Towels, Pinnacle Souverän™ Paste Wax, 2-bucket wash system with grit gaurds, Wolfgang Tire & Wheel Cleaner, Daytona Speed Master Wheel Brush, Black Again

What I’m looking to get: (So please give me your option)
Meguiars #105?
XMT 360?
Pinnacle Liquid Spray Wax
Klasse High Gloss Sealant Glaze
Klasse AIO Polish
More Microfiber towels
Vacuums & Blowers by Metro-Question? (Is it worth the money? Which one would you recommend?)
Pinnacle Paintwork Cleansing Lotion
Wolfgang Paintwork Polish Enhancer
DP Total Interior Cleaner
DP Interior Surface Protectant
DP Krystal Vision Glass Cleaner

Let me know what you think.


Too many poducts for me to keep up with in your list, but here is what you should have before charging folks for some money.

Polisher
Many pads and idfferent sizes
Many MF towels
AIO product
Claybar
QD
Degreaser
IPA 91%
Distilled Water
APC at various dilutions
Various waxes (sometimes color specific if money and customer base allows)
Various Sealants
Various polishes IMO M105/205, SIP, IP, P085RD, and Ultrafina can cover any job with the right pads and technique
Glass Cleaners
Interior Protectant
Leather cleaner and protectant
Extractor. Seen Bissell one for about $100 and looks like a real good buy for starting out
Various brushes from wheels to interior
Foam Appliacators
Car Wash
Wash Mitt/sponge/brush
Q Tips
Chrome Polish
Convertible top (both fabric and vinyl)
Various Dressings
Wet Sanding paper and block


I think that about covers it LOL

[Camaro2010]

-Definitely get 105 for tough jobs
-just use 106FA or your finishing glaze to correct. No need to spend the money
-No need for the klasse, maybe some Menzerna product instead
-You can never have enough microfiber
-Vac can come in handy if you can afford it
-Get one of the cleansing lotions. No need for both(pinnacle CL and wolfgang PPE)
-you need a interior cleaner or a APC cleaner.
-IMO I like 303 protectant
-Stoners is a cheaper alternative. I do have the Krystal vision, it works great. I wait for it to go on BOGO before I buy it.

Which 106FA were you suggesting?
Menzerna Super Finish (Nano) PO 106 FA 16 oz. - MEN-PO106FAP (http://www.autogeek.net/menzerna-super-nano-polish.html)
or
Menzerna Nano Polish PO 106 FA - MEN-PO106-FAQ-1 (http://www.autogeek.net/menzerna-nano-polish.html)?

[loudog2]

Which 106FA were you suggesting?
Menzerna Super Finish (Nano) PO 106 FA 16 oz. - MEN-PO106FAP (http://www.autogeek.net/menzerna-super-nano-polish.html)
or
Menzerna Nano Polish PO 106 FA - MEN-PO106-FAQ-1 (http://www.autogeek.net/menzerna-nano-polish.html)?
They are the same. The first link is the 16oz bottle. The second is the 32oz bottle.