New paint cure time

[LITUNDRA]

A few weeks ago I posted about how my 08 tundra was hit in a parking lot and there was a 4 ft dent down the driver side from above the wheel well to the middle of the back door. I had the get the rear fender and door re-sprayed because some of the dents could not have been removed using PDR. I just picked up the truck yesterday and noticed that the paint in the area were it was re-sprayed that area is a little rough and I could tell it was different from the rest of the truck. I would like to correct this as I have the Flex 3401 and some menz P0 91E, and some P0 85U. What should I do to correct this and how long should I wait for the paint to cure before attempting to correct this? Also should I clay the truck again to remove any overspray that may be on the other panels I just did it right before it was hit which is a kick in the face because I spent 7 hours claying, sealing and waxing getting the truck ready for a NE winter. Thanks in advance.

[fubar]

If i'm correct it takes 2-3 months before u can clay, SHR, Polish, and Wax that fresh painted area. Here's a link to ur ?

About New Paint Jobs | eHow.com (http://www.ehow.com/about_4679730_new-paint-jobs.html)

[loudog2]

I use menzerna 85RD on new paint to correct what you have. I just used it on my wifes car a couple weeks ago. It is use by Mercedes Benz of Germany on the assembly line to remove overspray and refine the fresh paint. Here is the description from AG's page:

"Menzerna Polish PO85RD is one of Menzerna’s Professional Line car polishes formulated specifically for assembly line use. Mercedes Benz of Germany uses Menzerna polishes on their brand new vehicles to remove overspray and refine the newly cured paint finishes. Now body shops and enthusiasts can use Menzerna Polish PO85RD to achieve a new car gloss"

[Superdutytd]

If i'm correct it takes 2-3 months before u can clay, SHR, Polish, and Wax that fresh painted area. Here's a link to ur ?

About New Paint Jobs | eHow.com (http://www.ehow.com/about_4679730_new-paint-jobs.html)


Fubar I do believe that the term SHR is only for the Adam's product know as "swirl and haze remover".

To the OP,

you really should take the truck back to the body shop as things that leave the bodyshop should match up perfectly.

[LITUNDRA]

The paint matches as far as color and there are no drips or anything but it is a little rough to the feel. If you look straight on at the panel it looks good but if you look down the body line you can tell its rough, also if you look at a reflection on the painted panels they are a little distorted. I have never had anything painted before is this normal or should I just take it back and have him re-spray it. If it could be corrected with a compound then I would much rather do that then have the truck sprayed again.

Hey lou how long did you wait to do it on your wifes car after it was painted?

[loudog2]

The paint matches as far as color and there are no drips or anything but it is a little rough to the feel. If you look straight on at the panel it looks good but if you look down the body line you can tell its rough, also if you look at a reflection on the painted panels they are a little distorted. I have never had anything painted before is this normal or should I just take it back and have him re-spray it. If it could be corrected with a compound then I would much rather do that then have the truck sprayed again.

Hey lou how long did you wait to do it on your wifes car after it was painted?
Picked it up from the dealer on wednsday. Polished the doors and front quarter on Saturday.

[longbal30]

I can tell you from experience, you are fine to polish the area out free of defects. Just dont wax the area for a couple months. You can polis it, just dont recommend sealing it. Trust me, when I am done with my final coat of clear, I wait till the next day and wet sand all of the defects out and polish to perfection.

[longbal30]

All clears are a bit different, just ask the body shop what clear they used and what is the work time on it. If I bake some of my clears, I can wet sand and buff same day, If I let dry naturally, I have to wait as long as 48 hours.

[LITUNDRA]

cool thanks longbal I'll give them a call today and ask thanks

[Mike Phillips]

I just picked up the truck yesterday and noticed that the paint in the area were it was re-sprayed that area is a little rough and I could tell it was different from the rest of the truck.



When you say,

noticed that the paint in the area were it was re-sprayed that area is a little rough


Do you mean when you look at it with your eyes you you see Orange Peel and that's what you mean when you say it looks rough? The word rough meaning textured?

Or do you mean when you feel the area with your hand it physically feels rough, as it it has paint overspray, thus a textured feel to it?



To remove orange peel you would sand the paint flat and then remove your sanding marks.
To remove overspray you would use detailing clay and clay the affected areas.


One of the most likely places to get overspray on a car is at a body shop because they're spraying fresh paint. Most fresh paint is sprayed in the paint booth but sometimes you'll have guy spraying a component or portion of a panel with primer outside of the paint booth and some of that paint will be air-borne and can land on ANYTHING in the area of the body shop both inside the body shop and outside the body shop thus a body shop is a very likely place for a car to get overspray.

Also when they paint your car, even just a portion of the car, there is paint in the air in the paint booth and it can land on anything, covered or uncovered, so if your windshield or hood are not covered when they spray your back fender the potential exist to get overspray or dry spray on other areas of your car. So anytime you get your car back from a body shop for a repair or a complete re-paint, the next time you wash and dry the car take a moment to feel the paint all over the car and the glass and even bumpers and wheels.

My truck was painted before I bought it and it had overspray all over the windshield and the wheels as well as on the paint itself.

:)

[fubar]

[QUOTE=Superdutytd;275395]Fubar I do believe that the term SHR is only for the Adam's product know as "swirl and haze remover".

Yes it is, but AG sells alot of different products that do the same thing get the Swirls, and Haze out. So using this term SHR just means anybody can buy what ever products they like using.

[Mike Phillips]

And FWIW

SMR = Swirl Mark Remover

This is a general term for products that remove swirls and are typically light cutting products as the idea is to remove swirls, not just displace them with more shallow swirls.


:)

[fubar]

And FWIW

SMR = Swirl Mark Remover

This is a general term for products that remove swirls and are typically light cutting products as the idea is to remove swirls, not just displace them with more shallow swirls.


:)

Thanks Mike that would be better to use SMR :dblthumb2:

[LITUNDRA]

When you say,

noticed that the paint in the area were it was re-sprayed that area is a little rough


Do you mean when you look at it with your eyes you you see Orange Peel and that's what you mean when you say it looks rough? The word rough meaning textured?

Or do you mean when you feel the area with your hand it physically feels rough, as it it has paint overspray, thus a textured feel to it?



To remove orange peel you would sand the paint flat and then remove your sanding marks.
To remove overspray you would use detailing clay and clay the affected areas.


One of the most likely places to get overspray on a car is at a body shop because they're spraying fresh paint. Most fresh paint is sprayed in the paint booth but sometimes you'll have guy spraying a component or portion of a panel with primer outside of the paint booth and some of that paint will be air-borne and can land on ANYTHING in the area of the body shop both inside the body shop and outside the body shop thus a body shop is a very likely place for a car to get overspray.

Also when they paint your car, even just a portion of the car, there is paint in the air in the paint booth and it can land on anything, covered or uncovered, so if your windshield or hood are not covered when they spray your back fender the potential exist to get overspray or dry spray on other areas of your car. So anytime you get your car back from a body shop for a repair or a complete re-paint, the next time you wash and dry the car take a moment to feel the paint all over the car and the glass and even bumpers and wheels.

My truck was painted before I bought it and it had overspray all over the windshield and the wheels as well as on the paint itself.

:)


Yeah it looks like an orange peel so I guess it will have to be wet sanded and then polished I will give the body shop a call tomorrow and see what they say after all I did pay them to fix it the right way so they should fix it. Thanks for the info I'll let you know what they say

[Mike Phillips]

Yeah it looks like an orange peel so I guess it will have to be wet sanded and then polished I will give the body shop a call tomorrow and see what they say after all I did pay them to fix it the right way so they should fix it. Thanks for the info I'll let you know what they say


Yeah, if you want print out this thread and take it with you so they can see you know more than the average Joe Consumer.

Here's the deal, if they sprayed enough clear they can sand the paint flat, this removes the orange peel texture and then cross your fingers and hope they know how to buff paint correctly so the don't leave swirls in the clear from their compounding step.

Sad to say that's the normal horror story from the average body shop. I've typed this up before so here's the short version,


Paint is sanded flat.
Sanding mark are removed using a wool pad and an aggressive compound on a wool cutting pad on a rotary buffer.
Paint is buffed a second time using a less aggressive product and either a wool finishing pad or a foam pad.
Paint is hand glazed and the body shop hopes the customer accepts the work.

And then.... customer washes the car a few times, the glaze washes off as it's water soluble and then the swirls show up and the customer is unhappy.

The correct fix is to do what I outlined above but then add one more step which body shops don't do because it adds to much time for the repair and they don't charge for it.


Paint is sanded flat.
Sanding mark are removed using a wool pad and an aggressive compound on a wool cutting pad on a rotary buffer.
Paint is buffed a second time using a less aggressive product and either a wool finishing pad or a foam pad.
Pain is re-polished using a dual action polisher to INSURE the swirls are removed.
Paint is hand glazed and the body shop hopes the customer accepts the work.



Interestingly enough, here's a thread on "glazes" which is the last step because you're not supposed to bring waxes and paint sealants into fresh paint environments, (that's normal), and because you're not supposed to "seal" paint till at least after 30 days air-cure, (that's normal), so fresh paint is glazed so it looks good and the customer will accept the work. Glazing the paint is normal and acceptable, leaving swirls under the glaze is the way it's always been done.


http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/ask-expert-featuring-mike-phillips/22195-what-glaze.html


Discussion forums are trending toward changing the way things have always been done but it's an uphill battle for all kinds of reasons.


The good news is you can remove the swirls if they leave them in the paint.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/auto-detailing-101/21413-horrible-swirl-marks-5.html




:)