Brillo Pad, Red Mustang Fender & Flex 3403

[frosty]

Today, i took a junk mustang Red fender and ran a brillo pad on it.

Before pix:

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/uploads/24452/BeforeBrillo1.jpg


After using the Brillo:

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/uploads/24452/AfterBrillo3.jpg

In polishing I tried several different things. I started out with an orange pad and M #105. You could tell a difference in the two sections but it wasn't going to remove the scratches. Next I tried the Menzerna Power Gloss and the Orange pad. 2 different times. It still wasn't removing the scratches. The scratches 99% couldn't be felt with a finger nail.

Next I went to Power Gloss & a purple wool Pad. I must say you can just tell the difference between Power Gloss & 105 with just rubbing the compound on the surface. You can feel and hear the difference in the grit.

The first attempt at using the wool and power gloss made a difference but still scratches. I ended up making 3 different runs at it. I tried following the Zenity method. Slow, medium full speed, medium & slow.

Between each attempt I did an IPA wipe. After the 3rd attempt, the scratches were finally gone. I then used a white pad with M #205 and along with the zenith method making sure the polish was completely broken down.

The final result:

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/uploads/24452/Corrected.JPG


Again the pix don't really do the scratches and the finish justice. I have some questions on some things I encountered I'll post is a separate response.

[frosty]

A few questions.

1) With the 105 and an Orange CCS for some reason after about 45 minutes, the polish seemed to disappear and the machine would do a dance. The best I can describe it was each side was constantly grabbing causing the machine to hop without forcefully controlling it. Swithing to the wool pad, I didn't have this problem.

2) After some time the wool pad as well as the white pad seemed to take on a pinkish tint. It's odd because I didn't use much pressure and instead repitition to correct scratches. I can't swear the pads weren't like that before I started but they were only used one time before on a black panel. As you can see there is nothing that indicates breach of the clearcoat but again I'm paranoid. Maybe there was a chip to the metal and this light coloring was picked up there.

Here's a pix of the pad. It's discolored gray because the previous use was with Menzerna Super Finish which is gray. Of course it could just be my eyes playing tricks.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/uploads/24452/WhitePad.jpg

[frosty]

One thing I want to add. In a separate post with a black panel I mentioned the paint seemed to get hot. With this panel, the heat to the touch was warm after each pass. What I would imagine it to be.

[frosty]

I think I found my problem. I learned yesterday when working on a free panel like I have to not sit on the edges and to tape. (I tape everything I do on a car anyway.) But I went back and inspected fender and I think on the edge I got into the paint a touch.

Actually glad I did as now I know exactly how little it takes to break through on an edge. Tape, Tape, Tape as has been said numerous times on here before.

[tuscarora dave]

You are a smart man to get a fender like you did and practice. Try wetsanding the remaining scratches with 2K or 3K grit paper and see how you make out there.

I learned about the edges on my own car, I cut into the edges exposing a tiny spot of primer in between the front and rear doors. I was at first surprised at how easy it was to get bit by the rotary on edges. After another year of practice I just stay away from all edges with the rotary.

[frosty]

Yep, honestly I was so focused on trying to get the brillo pad scratches out I really didn't notice I was getting to that edge. However I was sitting facing it and best I can tell the back of the pad when it came back got it at some point. (I was focusing on the front and trying to keeping it as flat as possible.)

On a car I'm definitely taping though.

P.S. I have another post under Pertaining to a Flex 3403. I did just what you are suggesting. I bought some 1, 2 & 3k Ungrit paper and a backing pad on a black door. I was quite happy with the way it turned out. However, it'll be a LONG time before I touch sand paper to a car of any value most likely. :)

[2003 GMC Denali]

My neighbor next door, works at a Ford dealership. I got him to bring home a few banged up Black Fenders to practice on. He says, there's more where they came from.

Surprisingly, the Fenders are quite light. I hope GM is not making Fenders as thin as the Fords are.

The Brillo Pad or 3M Scouring Pad is a good idea to scuff up the junk Fenders before correcting them. Thank-you for this idea.

[unclestu]

Today, i took a junk mustang Red fender and ran a brillo pad on it.

Before pix:

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/uploads/24452/BeforeBrillo1.jpg


After using the Brillo:

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/uploads/24452/AfterBrillo3.jpg

In polishing I tried several different things. I started out with an orange pad and M #105. You could tell a difference in the two sections but it wasn't going to remove the scratches. Next I tried the Menzerna Power Gloss and the Orange pad. 2 different times. It still wasn't removing the scratches. The scratches 99% couldn't be felt with a finger nail.

Next I went to Power Gloss & a purple wool Pad. I must say you can just tell the difference between Power Gloss & 105 with just rubbing the compound on the surface. You can feel and hear the difference in the grit.

The first attempt at using the wool and power gloss made a difference but still scratches. I ended up making 3 different runs at it. I tried following the Zenity method. Slow, medium full speed, medium & slow.

Between each attempt I did an IPA wipe. After the 3rd attempt, the scratches were finally gone. I then used a white pad with M #205 and along with the zenith method making sure the polish was completely broken down.

The final result:

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/uploads/24452/Corrected.JPG


Again the pix don't really do the scratches and the finish justice. I have some questions on some things I encountered I'll post is a separate response.

Wow that looks really great. You mentioned that 99% of the scratches could be felt with your finger nail and you were able to remove them by using the Zenith method. What exactly is the Zenith method and could this method be a viable alternative to wet sanding for scratch removal?

[frosty]

Wow that looks really great. You mentioned that 99% of the scratches could be felt with your finger nail and you were able to remove them by using the Zenith method. What exactly is the Zenith method and could this method be a viable alternative to wet sanding for scratch removal?

I'm sorry, I don't want to misspeak and mislead. Actually looking back I had mentioned 99% could not be felt. The few that you could it was just every so slighlty.

The Zenith Method I read about from a nice thread on the detailworld UK forum. In a nutshell you start out slow at like 1100 rpm, make some passes, then go up to say 1300 and make some passes, then 1500 or 1600 hundred make several passes. Then do just the opposite in reverse until the polish is broken down.

I found out you can't do it with a compound like the M#105. You seem to only be able to go that long with polishes that break down like the Menzerna's or the Megs #205.

So if you have scratches that you can really feel with a finger nail, I think you have to either see if you can round the edges and hide it somewhat or get paint work done.

And no my thoughts it wouldn't replace wetsanding for scratches that need it. But I'm not an expert and learning myself.

[unclestu]

I'm sorry, I don't want to misspeak and mislead. Actually looking back I had mentioned 99% could not be felt. The few that you could it was just every so slighlty.

The Zenith Method I read about from a nice thread on the detailworld UK forum. In a nutshell you start out slow at like 1100 rpm, make some passes, then go up to say 1300 and make some passes, then 1500 or 1600 hundred make several passes. Then do just the opposite in reverse until the polish it broken down.

I found out you can't do it with a polish like the M#105. You seem to only be able to go that long with polishes that break down like the Menzerna's or the Megs #205.

So if you have scratches that you can really feel with a finger nail, I think you have to either see if you can round the edges and hide it somewhat or get paint work done.

And no my thoughts it wouldn't replace wetsanding for scratches that need it. But I'm not an expert and learning myself.

Thanks for the clarification Frosty. That looked like it was a lot of fun. I think I am going to get myself a hood to practice on I already have the Brillo pads LOL