2002 Viper ACR Detail - Phase II

[Gary Sword]

Continued from Phase I:

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/show-n-shine/21580-2002-viper-acr-detail-phase-i.html


Phase II
Engine Bay Detail
ACR Decal Replacement
Polish


Engine Bay Detail:

I started some of the engine bay detail when I had the car up on jack stands then finished it off after I put the wheels back on and put the car back on the floor.

Plastics and Rubber Surfaces - 303 Aerospace Protectant
Aluminum - Collinite 850 Metal Wax
Painted Steel - Duragloss 501

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/500/EngineBay_2.jpg
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/500/Engine1.jpg
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/500/EngineBay_1.jpg
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/500/EngineBay_3.jpg


Viper ACR Decal Replacement:

I don't normally like decals and this is the 1st time I have ever put one on a car. The decal is an OEM ACR decal that was damaged when I purchased the car. If you can believe it the dealer wanted $130 for one decal. I was able to get the decal from a member on the Viper's Club or America site who lives in the UK and owns a graphics company. It sent me 2 decal for $35 including air mail.

Before:
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/500/ACR_Decal_Before.jpg

I put on some painter's tape before removing the decal so I could make sure I put it on in the exact same spot. Next I removed the old decal. To remove the glue I used Klasse All-In-One. It did a great job removing the glue and I didn't have to worry about damaging the paint with a solvent.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/500/ACR_Decal_Off.jpg

Before putting on the decal I did a 50% water 50% Isopropyl Alcohol wipe down on the area the decal was going on.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/500/ACR_Decal_New.jpg

I only had to replace the decal on the driver's side so I still have an extra one in case I need it in the future.


Paint Polish:

Polish - Menzerna PO85RD using Flex and 6" Kompressor Lite Cutting & Jeweling pads.

It been over a year since I polished the car but it didn't have any swirl marks. It did have a few light scratches. I wasn't going to polish it at all then I thought I might as well polish the hard to get to body panel parts on the bottom of the car. while I had it up on jack stands.


http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/500/Undercarriage11.jpg

Since I had polished the bottom of the body panels and thought I might as well remove a few light scratched and jewel up the paint.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/500/Polish_Hood.jpg
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/500/Polish_Hood2.jpg
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/500/Polish_CO4.jpg
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/500/Polish_CO3.jpg
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/500/Polish_CO2.jpg
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/500/Polish_CO1.jpg
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/500/Polish_Roof.jpg
[/URL]http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/500/Polish_Side.jpg

On most of the back I used a PC with a 4" LC lite cutting pad. A 6" pad is just to big to hit most of the spots on the back.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/500/Polish_Back.jpg
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/500/Polish_Back2.jpg


What's Next???? Phase III of course

Phase III
Interior Detail
LSP

To be continued:
:buffing:[URL="http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/500/Undercarriage11.jpg"] (http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/500/Polish_CO4.jpg)

[unclestu]

Continued from Phase I:

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/show-n-shine/21580-2002-viper-acr-detail-phase-i.html


Phase II
Engine Bay Detail
ACR Decal Replacement
Polish


Engine Bay Detail:

I started some of the engine bay detail when I had the car up on jack stands then finished it off after I put the wheels back on and put the car back on the floor.

Plastics and Rubber Surfaces - 303 Aerospace Protectant
Aluminum - Collinite 850 Metal Wax
Painted Steel - Duragloss 501

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/500/EngineBay_2.jpg
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/500/Engine1.jpg
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/500/EngineBay_1.jpg
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/500/EngineBay_3.jpg


Viper ACR Decal Replacement:

I don't normally like decals and this is the 1st time I have ever put one on a car. The decal is an OEM ACR decal that was damaged when I purchased the car. If you can believe it the dealer wanted $130 for one decal. I was able to get the decal from a member on the Viper's Club or America site who lives in the UK and owns a graphics company. It sent me 2 decal for $35 including air mail.

Before:
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/500/ACR_Decal_Before.jpg

I put on some painter's tape before removing the decal so I could make sure I put it on in the exact same spot. Next I removed the old decal. To remove the glue I used Klasse All-In-One. It did a great job removing the glue and I didn't have to worry about damaging the paint with a solvent.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/500/ACR_Decal_Off.jpg

Before putting on the decal I did a 50% water 50% Isopropyl Alcohol wipe down on the area the decal was going on.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/500/ACR_Decal_New.jpg

I only had to replace the decal on the driver's side so I still have an extra one in case I need it in the future.


Paint Polish:

Polish - Menzerna PO85RD using Flex and 6" Kompressor Lite Cutting & Jeweling pads.

It been over a year since I polished the car but it didn't have any swirl marks. It did have a few light scratches. I wasn't going to polish it at all then I thought I might as well polish the hard to get to body panel parts on the bottom of the car. while I had it up on jack stands.


http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/500/Undercarriage11.jpg

Since I had polished the bottom of the body panels and thought I might as well remove a few light scratched and jewel up the paint.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/500/Polish_Hood.jpg
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/500/Polish_Hood2.jpg
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/500/Polish_CO4.jpg
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/500/Polish_CO3.jpg
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/500/Polish_CO2.jpg
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/500/Polish_CO1.jpg
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/500/Polish_Roof.jpg
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/500/Polish_Side.jpg

On most of the back I used a PC with a 4" LC lite cutting pad. A 6" pad is just to big to hit most of the spots on the back.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/500/Polish_Back.jpg
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/500/Polish_Back2.jpg


What's Next???? Phase III of course

Phase III
Interior Detail
LSP

To be continued:


:buffing:
Wow I love your viperrrrrr. You are doing a show car job :dblthumb2:. What products are you using for the jeweling?

[Fred114]

subscribing cause I love seeing this car. :drool:

[sullysdetailing]

Wow the car looks great

[Gary Sword]

Thanks for the nice comments unclestu, Fred114 and sullysdetailing.


Wow I love your viperrrrrr. You are doing a show car job :dblthumb2:. What products are you using for the jeweling?

For most of the car I used Menzerna PO85RD with the new 6" LC Kompressor Jeweling pad on a Flex XC 3401. I did use a 6" LC Kompressor Lite Cutting Pad to remove some light scratches. I thought the Lite Cutting Pad jeweled the paint as good as the jeweling pad. I also used a 4" LC Lite Cutting Pad on a PC to hit some places that are to small to get to with a 6" pad.

[Rsurfer]

So, what was the LSP after jeweling? Gary, look into the 3" spot buff pads, allows you into even tighter areas. Be careful with the 4" LC backing plate. Do not use speed 6 on the pc, as I have ripped apart 2 plates. Speed 5 causes no problems. I've since switched to a rotary bp with an adapter for the pc. The rotary bp is just built better.

[Gary Sword]

So, what was the LSP after jeweling? Gary, look into the 3" spot buff pads, allows you into even tighter areas. Be careful with the 4" LC backing plate. Do not use speed 6 on the pc, as I have ripped apart 2 plates. Speed 5 causes no problems. I've since switched to a rotary bp with an adapter for the pc. The rotary bp is just built better.

I have had a 3.5" LC backing plate come apart on speed 2 while applying Collinite 845 to my enclosed car trailer. I do have a 3 3/4" rotary backing plate. I don't like to use my rotary when the space is tight and the side of the pad might contact some adjacent paint. Where did you get your rotary bp adapter for the PC?