Mike need your expertise

[bigdawg]

I just got my poorboys porter cable polish and protect kit from you guys and cant wait to try it out but.... I have a question. Im going to be working on a 08 black nissan titan and a 05 white scion. The scion has never been waxed, and the titan has had a few hand waxes done. So is there anything else I need to get befor I start? The kit came with...

ssr2.5, ssr1, nattys blue, spray& gloss, spray & wipe

lc foam pads orange, white and black

xmt gel shampoo

I would like your input and anybody else on what order and combo I should use on each vehicle. I see that I have no polish and wonder if the ssr2.5 and ssr1 are just a little to abrasive..

Its been awhile since Ive detailed so Im kind of a noob. LOL

Thanks for taking time to read and to respond..

[LincolnZephyr2006]

Well, judging by the info you gave me, I would say it would be safe to say to use ssr2.5 and 1 on the scion... and maybe just the ssr1 on the 08 Titan. You may just want to use the white and black pads for the Titan... and use the orange along with the white or black for the Scion. Again, that is based on the info you gave me and the average cars I see from what you said since no pictures were given.

Just remember... always use the less agressive approach and slowly step up to see what kind of finish you are looking for

[bigdawg]

Sorry dont have any pics as of yet. I know it would be helpful. The 08 titan has some swirls and slight marring from being washed, but other than that its good. The 05 scion needs a little more work than the titan (swirls, scratches and marring). My question is what will I need to do after the ssr2.5 is done on both cars? Do I need to get a sealant and a polish then use the nattys wax last??? What would be my best choices on pads for the sealant, polish and wax? Sorry about all the question.. Thank you...

[bigdawg]

I just got my poorboys porter cable polish and protect kit from you guys and cant wait to try it out but.... I have a question. Im going to be working on a 08 black nissan titan thats has slight marring and a few swirls from washing , other than that paint is good. 05 white scion that has little more swirls and marring. The scion has never been waxed, and the titan has had a few hand waxes done. So is there anything else I need to get befor I start? The kit came with...

ssr2.5, ssr1, nattys blue, spray& gloss, spray & wipe

lc foam pads orange, white and black

xmt gel shampoo

Thanks for anybodys feedback on what order and combo I should use on each vehicle. I have no polish and sealant so do I need to pick some up? What kind will work well with what I have and what pad to use with them. Is the ssr2.5 and ssr1 are just a little to abrasive? If not what pad would I use on each car with the ssr?

Its been awhile since Ive detailed so Im kind of a noob. LOL sorry no pics at this time.

Thanks for taking time to read and to respond..

[Pockets@PoorboysWorld]

Hey BigDawg,

Great kit you got there... From what you are saying you have just the right tools for the job. I would give the SSR 2.5 a try with the white polishing pad and see what it does if it does not correct to your liking than step it up to SSR 2.5 and the orange light cut pad that will defiantly take out what you have. You may than have to follow this step up with SSR 1 and the black finishing pad to get rid of the haze that may have been left behind from the SSR 2.5 and the orange light cut pad. This extra step will also make the paint really shine and be glossy. When using the SSR's use the PC on speed 5-6 and work it in until it slightly dusts or until it is clear on the finish. The only thing that I would do before I start to polish is clay the car....Do you have detailing clay if so that would defiantly be helpful as a first step after your wash... and you can use the S+W as a clay lube and not have to wash the vehicle again just wipe it away like you were doing a waterless wash.

Hope that answered your questions if you got anymore just shoot :props:

-Pockets :buffing:

[bigdawg]

Hay thanks pocket for the info. I need to get some clay forgot about that and how about some polish and sealant? What pads would I uase with the polish and sealant? I was wondering if I can apply rhe nattys blue with the pc and remove with it to, orbeter off removing by hand? Thanks alot for the help I appreciate it.

[Pockets@PoorboysWorld]

Hay thanks pocket for the info. I need to get some clay forgot about that and how about some polish and sealant? What pads would I uase with the polish and sealant? I was wondering if I can apply rhe nattys blue with the pc and remove with it to, orbeter off removing by hand? Thanks alot for the help I appreciate it.

PWS is whats called an all in one productud (AIO) it doesn't have the same correction ability as the SSR's have but would be an excellent choice for maintaining your cars after you have corrected them. This is my favorite AIO polish. The pads used would be the white polishing pad or the black finishing pad on speed 4.5-6 depending on what you are doing if your just shining than like 4.5 5 and if you are using it to remove haze than near 6.... I usually don't apply my wax by machine i just find it easier to apply by hand (machine use black or red pad) and you can buff it off by the machine if you put a towel under the pc with a foam pad but the NB is so easy to come off I don't see a need for that.

-Pockets Im the MAN

[bigdawg]

PWS is whats called an all in one productud (AIO) it doesn't have the same correction ability as the SSR's have but would be an excellent choice for maintaining your cars after you have corrected them. This is my favorite AIO polish. The pads used would be the white polishing pad or the black finishing pad on speed 4.5-6 depending on what you are doing if your just shining than like 4.5 5 and if you are using it to remove haze than near 6.... I usually don't apply my wax by machine i just find it easier to apply by hand (machine use black or red pad) and you can buff it off by the machine if you put a towel under the pc with a foam pad but the NB is so easy to come off I don't see a need for that.

-Pockets Im the MAN
Thanks again pocket. I will pick up some poorboy pws aio and clay first thing tomarrow. I will try doing the wax by hand if its that easy. Thank you for all the help!!!

[Pockets@PoorboysWorld]

Thanks again pocket. I will pick up some poorboy pws aio and clay first thing tomarrow. I will try doing the wax by hand if its that easy. Thank you for all the help!!!


NP :xyxthumbs: just remember when you are using the NB LESS IS MORE spread that wax as thin as you can go almost till you cant see it.... i usually put two coats on just to make sure i got everything lol but the thinner the better! Saves product and makes it even easier to buff off :buffing: becasue when you think about it wax goes on with a microscopic layer the stuff you see is just going to be wasted and buff away.

[LincolnZephyr2006]

After 2.5... you will need to use the ssr1 as a finishing polish. You may not even need to use the 2.5 on the Titan. As far as best pads.... I would use the orange-2.5, then move on to white ssr1 for the scion and maybe just the white pad and ssr1 for the Titan. After that... you could just put your sealant over it and I would just generally do that by hand and let it cure for maybe about an hour or two... and then you can top it with a wax. Hope that helps, don't hesitate to ask anymore!

I know you don't have to use the ssr1 as a finishing after the 2.5 (meaning that you COULD use the 2.5 in one step and apply your sealant), but I would just step down to the less cut pad after that since I am anal. But..... just try the 2.5 and see how much time you are taking

[DLB]

So far 97 views and no Mike...
Either Mike is lurking on us, or we are just that curious. :D

DLB

[Mike Phillips]

So far 97 views and no Mike...
Either Mike is lurking on us, or we are just that curious. :D

DLB

Just working behind the scenes on a different project. Usually have at least half a dozen projects going on and can't spend as much time on the forum as I would like.

:xyxthumbs:

[Mike Phillips]

Im going to be working on a 08 black nissan titan and a 05 white scion.

The scion has never been waxed, and the titan has had a few hand waxes done.


It's always hard to write out step-by-step instructions for two different vehicles on one thread, it's alway better to post dedicated threads for dedicated projects. This isn't really targeted at you but to everyone that will read this into the future to learn by.

As LincolnZephyr2006 pointed out,

"Use the least aggressive product to get the job done"

This means you have to start by testing the least aggressive product and see if the results make you happy, if not then you can test again and use a different pad/product combination.

This is called, doing a TEST SPOT. It's something you want to do anytime you work on paint that you've never worked on before and also anytime you work with pads, products and tools you've never worked with before.

You want to make sure your choice of pad, products, process and very important, your skill level and technique can make one small area look good before tackling the entire car.

This takes only a few minutes and can save you hours by finding out real fast if you're successsfull... or not... and it's the "or not" part where you save time, energy and money and come back to this forum and tell us what you're seeing in your test spot and everyone here will do their best to see you through to success.

Here's a test spot using a Flex 3401 but the principals all apply no matter how you're doing your work or what you're using.


The below is taken from this thread,
1957 Chevrolet Belair Extreme Makeover - Flex 3401 & Wolfgang Smackdown! (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/show-n-shine/20751-1957-chevrolet-belair-extreme-makeover-flex-3401-wolfgang-smackdown.html)

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Begin copy and paste
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Horizontal surfaces like the hood or the trunk lid always work best for the Test Spot. Here we're using the trunk lid and we've applied a piece of painter's tape to separate between the before and after sides for easier and more accurate evaluation.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/747/57TuqChev055.jpg



Always shake your products well before using them... I like to twist them back in forth at my side...
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/747/57TuqChev056.jpg



Lay down a thin strip of product about 6" to 8" long. You'll tend to use less product as you move around the car and your pad becomes more wet with product so it's less likely to absorb product into itself.
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/747/57TuqChev057.jpg

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/747/57TuqChev058.jpg

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/747/57TuqChev059.jpg


Unlike a true Rotary Buffer which the pad would rotate clockwise as you look down on it from behind the buffer, the Flex 3401 rotates counterclockwise and as such we're going to pick up our strip of product running the pad across the panel from left to right and running the strip into the pad at the 4 O'Clock position.
(See the YouTube Video below).

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/747/57TuqChev060.jpg

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/747/57TuqChev061.jpg

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/747/57TuqChev062.jpg

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/747/57TuqChev063.jpg

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/747/57TuqChev064.jpg


After picking up our bead, we lay the pad flat against the paint and begin making slow, overlapping passes over our test section.
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/747/57TuqChev065.jpg

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/747/57TuqChev066.jpg

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/747/57TuqChev067.jpg


Try to always have a wet film of product at the end of the buffing cycle as buffing to a complete dry buff might lead to hazing if you lose all lubricity on the surface.
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/747/57TuqChev068.jpg




YouTube Video Performing A Test Spot using the Flex VRG 3401





- Performing a "Test Spot" to...





Turning the pad over reveals we're working on a single stage paint job, not a basecoat/clear coat finish. Single stage paints are generally softer and easier to work on than clear coat finishes with the exception of white single stage paints as the pigment type for white paint is Titanium Dioxide Powder and the pigment alone will make the paint, (resin), very unworkable or hard-to-polish.
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/747/57TuqChev069.jpg


Next we'll wipe the residue off using a Cobra Indigo Microfiber Polishing Cloth (http://www.autogeek.net/coinmipoclsc.html)and inspect the results both in the shop and outside in full sun.
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/747/57TuqChev070.jpg

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/747/57TuqChev071.jpg


This is with the before side being lit up using the flash of the Rebel T1i
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/747/57TuqChev072.jpg


This is the after side. The tiny craters or pin holes you see are more than likely what' called Solvent Popping, which occurred when the paint was sprayed. These pin holes are actually present on the before side except because there are so many swirls in the before side, the swirls hide the solvent popping pin holes.

No amount of buffing will remove solvent popping because the holes are throughout the layer of paint, not just on the surface. Compounding and polishing more and more will just remove more paint and reveal a greater depth of the pin holes, it won't make the problem go away.

Keep in mind this is a very high resolution camera and it's being held very close to the paint. After polishing and waxing and then looking at the paint from a normal distance you don't really see them. The only fix is to repaint the entire car or the affected panels.
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/747/57TuqChev073.jpg



And a shot right on the tape-line...
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/747/57TuqChev074.jpg
__________________


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End of copy and paste
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Im going to be working on a 08 black nissan titan and a 05 white scion.

ssr2.5, ssr1, nattys blue, spray& gloss, spray & wipe

lc foam pads orange, white and black

xmt gel shampoo




Wash and dry both cars after they are dry feel the paint to see if it needs to be clayed. That's the first thing to do and if you discover above surface bonded contaminants, then use some detailing clay to clay the paint and get the surface smooth and clean.

Now inspect the finish for swirls and scratches, you usually want to do this with bright sunlight or a Swirl Finder Light like this,

The Brinkman Swirl Finder Light aka The Cruel Master! (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/new-car-care-products/21256-brinkmann-swirl-finder-light.html)

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/758/600_FirstSatClass016.jpg


If you discover swirls and scratches, start by doing a test sot using the polishing pad and the SSR1, this is a very light SMR but you don't know what you can do until you try. If it's not removing the defects quickly enough or effectively enough then test out the SSR 2.5 with the cutting pad.

Most important, use good technique, see this article as it's pretty in-depth on how to use a DA style polisher.

Tips and Techniques for using the PC 7424XP Dual Action Polisher to remove Below Surface Defects (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/expert-tips/20021-tips-techniques-using-porter-cable-7424xp.html)






Sorry dont have any pics as of yet. I know it would be helpful.



Check this out...

How-to work with pictures on discussion forums (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/how-articles-discussion-forums/21320-how-work-pictures-discussion-forums.html)

It's so easy for people to capture great photos with their digital cameras and even cell phones but if you don't know how to resize, upload and insert the image into a message you never get the fun of sharing them with your friends.





My question is what will I need to do after the ssr2.5 is done on both cars?


Do a test spot with the least aggressive approach, maybe you'll be able to get away with the SSR1 on at least one of the cars?

" You never know what you can to until you try"




Do I need to get a sealant and a polish then use the nattys wax last??? What would be my best choices on pads for the sealant, polish and wax? Sorry about all the question.. Thank you...


With the product you have,

Test first and if you have to use the SSR2.5 then here's your recipe,

SSR2.5 with orange foam cutting pad on speed setting 5.0 to 6.0 speed setting
SSR2 with white foam polishing pad on speed setting 5.0 to 6.0 speed setting
Insure the finish looks great after this
Natty's blue by hand or with the black foam finishing pad on the 4.0 speed setting

Maintain with the Spray & Wipe and the Spray & Gloss in-between regular washings.


:xyxthumbs:

[Mike Phillips]

Hey bigdawg,

Found you had an identical thread in another forum so I merged the two together.

You only need to post a topic one time,

Thanks!


:xyxthumbs:

[bigdawg]

I just want to say thanks to everybody who came to my need lol. I will def. will be puting up some pics when Im done with the cars, so I can get any feedback on what else I can do. Thanks again to everybody!!!