Wolfgang Deep Gloss Paint Sealant - Review and How-to

[Mike Phillips]

Dwane, HI! I am confused about when to use Wolfgang Paintwork Polish Enhancer (http://www.autogeek.net/wg2000.html) ,

If I use with my PC Wolfgang TSR and then Wolfgang FG is it necessary to use Wolfgang PPE as a 3rd step of jeweling or I go directly to apply the Wolfgang DGPS?



I'm not Dwayne, but I'll take a stab at this question...

If you're preparing your paint for application of wax or sealant, generally speaking you would either use,

TSR followed by FG by machine and then go to LSP

or

Wolfgang Paintwork Polish Enhancer and then go to LSP


You wouldn't need to follow the TSR and the FG multi-step process with anything else as after these two steps the paint should be LSP ready.


:)

[Dwayne]

Dwane, HI! I am confused about when to use Wolfgang Paintwork Polish Enhancer (http://www.autogeek.net/wg2000.html) , If I use with my PC Wolfgang TSR and then Wolfgang FG is it necessary to use Wolfgang PPE as a 3rd step of jeweling or I go directly to apply the Wolfgang DGPS? I know PPE is a good step as a prep when you have a like new car to clean the paint before applying DGPS (Claying is not better in this case?) and as a wax cleaner but I can't get another situation when I will take advantage of the PPE....I will get better results if I add this step before the WDGPS? Thanks!

Mike, thanks you very much!!! Please continue doing these excellent writeups/reviews that really help us A LOT!!! I read several times ALL your writeups and all of them are AWESOME and help me a lot to understand each process and product. :dblthumb2::dblthumb2:

That's right, once you use the Finishing Glaze 3.0, it finishes really nice and you area ready for the sealant.

Regarding claying, Paintwork Polish Enhancer does not replace the clay bar. If the surface needs clayed, do the clay before machine polishing or before using the Paintwork Polish Enhancer to remove contaminants and then the Polish Enhancer application is easier on a smooth surface and is able to gently deep clean the paint.

[C30-Mike]

If I want to apply a 2nd coat via PC for uniform coverage can I apply it right after the 1st coat wipe out?

[maxisiri]

Mike, Dwane: Thanks a lot for your replies..now I have a clear idea. Thanks!!!!:xyxthumbs:

[Mike Phillips]

If I want to apply a 2nd coat via PC for uniform coverage can I apply it right after the 1st coat wipe out?

Technically the answer would be "no".

You would wait for the 12 hour window of time to pass and then add subsequent applications.


:)

[Mike Phillips]

Also, sealants WILL bond over acrylic glazes, but NOT oily ones.

Only wax over oily glaze.


I've never walked out into a garage the next day after applying a sealant over a car that was polished and seen a pile of sealant on the garage floor surrounding the car because it didn't bond and slipped off the paint.

See post 16 of the below thread as this topic is discussed there,

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/auto-detailing-101/20525-best-product-methodology-remove-waxes-sealants.html


Also, there's something to be said for manufactures directions as they know their product's compatibility best since the chemists that formulate the product line make products that will work together with synergistic chemical compatibility.

Of course everyone is free to find their own way that suits there tastes but to say a sealant won't bond to paint because a polish that contained oil was used previously is probably not accurate and I've seen it done for decades.

That doesn't mean all sealants will do this as some are more finicky than others, but that's why I brought up the idea of following the "manufactures" directions for their specific product line. That doesn't mean what one manufactures says about their polymers needing a sterile surface applies to the rest of the industry and I don't think manufactures make recommendations for other company's products, (but sometimes forum members do).

One thing I've learned more and more since joining the AG Team is when it comes to paint care, there is not right or wrong way, just your way.

So glad I've been using the same Sig Line since I started posting how-to information to the Internet back in 1994


:D

[spooks]

Wise words, the majority of posts advocate using multiple products from multiple sources, what a novelty it would be to use 1 complete line all the way through once in a while, see what difference it makes!
But the other side is that half the fun is working out which ones work best together!

[detaildave]

"Find something you like and use it often" = Words to live by!!!:dblthumb2:
Mike, I can relate to your sig line & yet another excellent write up by the "Master of Correction" Mike!!! I will be adding WDGPS to my arsenal after this write up.

[Blackfire]

"Find something you like and use it often" = Words to live by!!!:dblthumb2:
Mike, I can relate to your sig line & yet another excellent write up by the "Master of Correction" Mike!!! I will be adding WDGPS to my arsenal after this write up.

Fortunately I started out with Wolfgang line of products. It's a winning combination for me. I do alternate between Fuzion, Souveran and MaxWax as the LSP.

Super slick with a brilliant shine.

For me, experimenting with other products would be just spending money to prove that WG is the only line I need.

[Tesla]

I've never walked out into a garage the next day after applying a sealant over a car that was polished and seen a pile of sealant on the garage floor surrounding the car because it didn't bond and slipped off the paint.

See post 16 of the below thread as this topic is discussed there,

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/auto-detailing-101/20525-best-product-methodology-remove-waxes-sealants.html


Also, there's something to be said for manufactures directions as they know their product's compatibility best since the chemists that formulate the product line make products that will work together with synergistic chemical compatibility.

Of course everyone is free to find their own way that suits there tastes but to say a sealant won't bond to paint because a polish that contained oil was used previously is probably not accurate and I've seen it done for decades.

That doesn't mean all sealants will do this as some are more finicky than others, but that's why I brought up the idea of following the "manufactures" directions for their specific product line. That doesn't mean what one manufactures says about their polymers needing a sterile surface applies to the rest of the industry and I don't think manufactures make recommendations for other company's products, (but sometimes forum members do).

One thing I've learned more and more since joining the AG Team is when it comes to paint care, there is not right or wrong way, just your way.

So glad I've been using the same Sig Line since I started posting how-to information to the Internet back in 1994


:D


Mike, your response in post #16 in the other thread was to me and a great one at that... but let me push it one step further... I guess those who are in the camp of not putting a sealant/wax over an "oily' glaze/polish (depending upon which word you prefer), they would say you wouldn't find the LSP on the floor, but it would be in your microfiber when you remove it from the car. That is to say, I suppose the thinking would be that when you would wipe the dried LSP off, you wouldn't be leaving anything behind.

I suppose the simple response would be that if that was the case, there would be no surface tension on the car... but maybe you can expand...

[pushtiulk]

Mike, great review. If I will apply the WG DGPS 3.0, I will let it to dry, then buff it, and then I will take the car out of the garage and keep it there over night, it will be OK? I can't keep the car in the garage over night. Also, on the second day it will be OK if I will wash it again (only to take the dust from the paint) and then apply WG Fuzion Wax? Of course, that before apply DGPS, I will wash it, clay it and prepare the paint with Pinnacle Paintwork Cleansing Lotion.

Thank you!