1952 Chev Truck

[uniquedetailing]

Hi everyone this is my first post so go easy please. I am in the process of restoring a 1952 Chev Truck, This truck has been rebuilt. I sprayed the truck myself it was the first time i had ever picked up a spray gun. sprayed single stage with HVLP gun. The truck turned out really good for first time and also it was my first time using a rotary so ill start out with the fender i did the other day. Ive been reading and picking up helpful tips. Again go easy please, any suggestions, comments i would apprecaite.

M105
M205
SIP
Makita Rotary
G110
Orange LC pad

[Blackthorn One]

It looks like you did a nice job painting it. If you want it to look it's best though, you will need to wet sand it with 1500, 2000, 2500 and possibly 3000 before buffing, in order to remove all of the orange peel. The Mequiar's unigrit paper is really great.

[Gary Sword]

Looks pretty good! Sounds like a big project. Post up some pics when you're done.

[Meghan]

I think you did a nice job!

[uniquedetailing]

I apprecaite the comments, would of like to get all the orange peel out but seeing first time really, still trying to gauge paint thickness, but i will purchase some meguiars paper. i wish i took pics before paint, but will certainly post more. thanks again

[Mike Phillips]

Some of the pictures make it look like you are wet-sanding? Like this one which I downloaded onto my hard drive and then uploaded into your gallery here,

uniquedetailing's gallery on AG Online (http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/showgallery.php/ppuser/23304/cat/500)

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/500/wetsanding52truck.jpg

It's not hard to upload pictures to your gallery and then inserting them instead of just attaching them. :)


IT looks like the surface has been lightly sanded revealing the orange peel and flattening it a little in some places.

It's a lot easier to capture orange peel with a camera if you lightly sand it too...

As for before pictures, check out this thread,


The power in the after shots is created in the before shots (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/tricks-tips-techniques/21216-power-after-shots-created-before-shots.html)



As for sanding this truck, how many coats of paint did you spray?

It's pretty easy to know down the orange peel with #1500 grit and then work up to #2000 or even #2500 before buffing. Finishing with a higher grit will make the buffing process faster and easier.

Be sure to use a clean water source when wet-sanding, put some water and a drop of soap into a clean spray bottle and spray the surface often as you sand to rinse off removed paint and any abrasive particles that come off your sanding paper.

Also, it's best to try to sand and buff sooner than later as the paint will continue to harden as time goes by. Sanding is always easy as this is putting scratches into the paint, (in a matter of speaking), it's removing them that can be difficult.

You want to remove them while the paint is still wet.

In the context of how the word wet is being used here we don't mean, wet as in gooey, or sticky paint, we mean while the paint is still in a window of time where it hasn't fully hardened.

Only sand where you can run your wool pad on a rotary buffer safely, sometimes it's easy to over-sand. You can remove sanding marks by hand but be careful about sanding any place that will be hard to reach safely with a wool cutting pad spinning at 1500 RPM or faster.

Nice work so far, looking forward to the completed project.

:dblthumb2:

[uniquedetailing]

Hi Mike thanks for the comments, I forgot to mention i wetsanded the fenders first, i only used 1500, 2000, I should of gone 2500, 3000 but the bodywork is not 100% so its a case of do want to put all that time in when the bodys not perfect. but on my next project is my vw passat which i will go through the steps. The truck got 3 coats, the paint has a flattener in it, we didnt want a shiny finish but after wetsandin and polish took the flattener right out. im working on the tailgate today which only got painted yesterday so as you mentioned im in the window of time.
is it easier to compound, polish removes swirls, sratches etc in single stage paint rather than bc/cc??????
ill have the other pics posted correct next time
Thanks

[Blackthorn One]

Hi Mike thanks for the comments, I forgot to mention i wetsanded the fenders first, i only used 1500, 2000, I should of gone 2500, 3000 but the bodywork is not 100% so its a case of do want to put all that time in when the bodys not perfect. but on my next project is my vw passat which i will go through the steps. The truck got 3 coats, the paint has a flattener in it, we didnt want a shiny finish but after wetsandin and polish took the flattener right out. im working on the tailgate today which only got painted yesterday so as you mentioned im in the window of time.
is it easier to compound, polish removes swirls, sratches etc in single stage paint rather than bc/cc??????
ill have the other pics posted correct next time
Thanks
I still see orange peel which could have been removed with even 1500, but now that you say that the bodywork is wavy, I would consider just buffing out the rest and leaving what orange peel you have left. Part of the reason is that if a car isn't straight, if the paint is polished like a mirror, it will make all of the wavy bodywork stand out a lot more, and the other is that it is a lot of work to wet sand a car. A little orange peel can hide wavy bodywork to some degree, so if I were you, at this point, I'd just buff the rest out with a wool pad. Not much point in perfectly polishing a wavy car. Save yourself the work and eventual disappointment. Worst case if you do this is that you can always wet sand it later if you REALLY want the orange peel out. A lot of, no, MOST cars have orange peel from the factory, and yours is no worse than the quarter panel of a black AMG Mercedes I saw two nights ago. I think yours will be fine. Single stage paint is generally softer than clear coat. As Mike said, single stage white paint is the hardest single stage paint, because of the titanium dioxide in it that makes it hard. Single stage paint is of course, the easiest to touch up and make the paint area blend in with the rest of the car.

[Mike Phillips]

I would consider just buffing out the rest and leaving what orange peel you have left. Part of the reason is that if a car isn't straight, if the paint is polished like a mirror, it will make all of the wavy bodywork stand out a lot more,

A little orange peel can hide wavy bodywork to some degree,



Good insight. Great point.

:xyxthumbs: