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belcherm58
09-23-2009, 02:20 PM
What is the possibility that you might do a Finish Kare Decontamination System write up for us about this product system. I have always been curious about the claim that you not having to use clay with this system. How would you test the level of decontamination, by clay after using the FK system? Just be curious as to it's effectiveness. :props:

belcherm58
09-23-2009, 04:38 PM
Hey members. Is anyone else curious to if this systmem works as good as claying? Chime is if you would like to know and maybe Mr. Phillips will answer. He might already know the answer. Finish Kare was started by one of the Meguiars Family members. Maybe they had the expert try the system to see it's effectiveness. If he has no experience with that product, then maybe he can share his humble opinion.

mbkite
09-23-2009, 04:40 PM
I second that request

Superdutytd
09-23-2009, 04:58 PM
I was looking at this system also and wondering the effects of it on paint.

dsms
09-23-2009, 05:08 PM
Okay I used this system 2 days ago on my black Audi which had some sever water spot etching.

I was very skeptical and unsure of the process. Using my best common sense I went fourth and tried it.

I did all 3 steps. My goal was simply to help loosen and remove the water spot etching.

After the application of step 1 and 2 (soil and coating remover and acid based cleaner) I re-washed the car with step 3 to neautralize everything and make sure the surface was clean before polishing.

I was not impressed at all after I did the 3 steps but when I did go to correct the water spots they corrected very easy, and these were HARD water spots that etched.

I had the same etching problem last month (sprinkler malfunction, dont ask) and had an impossible time trying to rotary correct the finish with the etching.

After the 3 step process FK1, the finish corrected much much easier.

Id like to think it was all the FK1 that loosened up the water spots but I need to test it on a few more cars for my result to be conclusive.

agpatel
09-23-2009, 08:04 PM
I was looking at this system also and wondering the effects of it on paint.

Should not have any negative side effects as this is a OEM approved process and has been used for many years by many manuf. It could have effects on plastic if applied directly to plastic parts, but I do not have information on this.

loudog2
09-23-2009, 08:38 PM
Biggest thing people told me to remember is not to let it dry on the paint.

belcherm58
09-23-2009, 08:49 PM
I know this system is OEM approved. Says so on the FK website. I know that clay does not remove all water spots. I have some that clay will not remove. My curiosity is. You know how after you clay your paint it has a slick feeling. How you can take a plastic baggie and cover your hand and move it across the paint and it glides and doe's not have the rough grainy feeling. That is the contamination that this
system is supposed to remove. Debris in the paint and might stay embedded in the paint from normal washing and might be released by buffing. I really don't think the debris that claying picks up is a big hazard to buffing as implied, the polishing compound has abrasives in it already. I would like to know if you were to use the FK Decontamination System and Clayed it right after, are you going to see debris that the FK system did not lift in the clay. More as to is one more effective than the other. Could you benefit from using both
cleaning methods or would claying be needed if decontamination were done. This test would have to be in a controlled environment that Mike would be well aware of the factors that need to be controlled. Not discounting anyone else s input, just would like to know what Mike's take is on it.

Mike Phillips
09-24-2009, 07:38 AM
I've personally never used this system so I can't really comment on from first hand experience. I've seen it used by a very experienced and trusted pro detailer and in the example that we used it on I didn't see any benefit but I don't think it was the right product for the job as we we're working on an oxidized, single stage paint.


I haven't read up on the ABC system for a year or so but my guess is that it's a product designed to clean fleets of cars that become contaminated in transit from the manufacturing location to the dealerships and all the stops in-between.

I've seen cars that have traveled across the ocean on large ships that have water spots and all kinds of air-borne contaminants and pollution bonded to the exterior and it could be this contamination system is best suited for these type of applications.

As far as bonded contaminants go a multiple step chemical bath or stripping process would probably remove a majority of the contaminants off the surface as long as the type of bond these contaminant have is within the scope of the chemicals being used to remove them. What that range would be I don't know but I'm sure the Finish Kare people do and a phone call or some research on their website should address this topic.

Water Spots

I posted the below on Autopia recently so instead of retyping what I've already written I'm just going to copy and paste it here,


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Begin copy and paste
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Years ago I wrote an article for MOL and just arbitrarily gave the two different types of water spots names as I needed a way to discuss them and differentiate them from one another. I don't know if there some other term previously used in the professional industry to differentiate mineral deposits from water spot etchings? If there is then I've never read or heard about it and feel free correct me and also to use those terms or make up your own.

Here's how I described them,

Type I Water Spots are mineral deposits sitting on top of the surface.
Type II Water Spots are actually holes or etchings that are in the paint.

Type I Water Spots, or mineral deposits bonded to the surface can be removed using detailing clay while Type II Water Spots, or etchings which are below the surface must be removed using a compound or polish because you have to remove a little paint surrounding the etching to level the surface.



Before washing
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/723/detail-50.jpg
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/723/detail-51.jpg


After washing
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/723/detail-85.jpg
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/723/detail-86.jpg

After claying
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/723/detail-83.jpg

Most of the water spots in these pictures were mineral deposits on the paint and glass of this Lexus I buffed out but in a few sections the water had actually etched into the paint so we removed them by machine buffing.

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End of copy and paste
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IF you're working on paint with Type II Water Spots then the only way to remove the spots will be to level the surface and by this I mean you're going to have to remove a little paint surrounding the etchings or craters in the paint till the surface is uniformly level.

This would be the job of a compound or paint cleaner, something that's abrasive, not a car wash or decontamination system unless the car wash or decontamination system has the ability to remove paint in a controlled manner.

If you have Type II Water Spots, from a horizontal point of view they are going to look like this,

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/719/water-spots-art.jpg


So I'm not sure how a washing system is going to remove the paint surrounding the hole or crater?




Just to note, even Type I Water Spots usually require some polishing in order to 100% remove any tale-tale signs.


:)

belcherm58
09-24-2009, 09:26 AM
Thank you for your answer. I think I understand the use of the Finish Kare System now. It's more for washing and cleaning than stripping for paint correction.
I reckon the second part of my question involves the water spot issue you were identifying. I would say that all water spots start as mineral deposits sitting on top of the surface of the paint at first. What cause's these spots to etch into the paint to a degree that buffing must be used to remove them? Is acid rain the blame for these etchings?

CEE DOG
10-03-2009, 09:39 PM
The Finish Kare actually states "The Finish Kare Paint Decontamination System was developed as a method of removing paint contamination beyond what can be removed by washing or claying. If you are familiar with detail clay, you know it is capable of removing above surface contaminants that have bonded to the paint. The Finish Kare Paint Decontamination System is designed to remove what lies below the paint surface."
I am curious of the statement they also make that without using FKPD iron particles etc. will continue to eat through your paint even if you clay or polish. What gives???Feed back please