Attn: Corvette Owners/Detailers... Interior Product Suggestions

[xxxc5]

Hi All,

I just traded in my 2002 Corvette Coupe for a 2004 Corvette Z06 Z16 Commerative Edition. Although the interior looks the same, the vinyl, hard/soft plastic and leather pieces are of a different grade/material than my previous model. I think these are the same materials that are currently used in the C6 (2005+).

I have used several products with mixed results:

DP Interior Surfance Cleaner and Protectant - I bought both but never used. I was scared off when I read "Check for color fastness" on the bottle. I didn't want to take any chances.

303 Aerospace Protectant - Did not like the results. Protection did not last more than a week and did not repel dust. Even with several wipe downs after application, surfaces still felt greasy.

Vinylex Spray - Worked well and repelled dust with minimal product accumulation. Stopped using because I read somewhere that it contained silicone.

Meguiars Gold Class Leather Conditioning Spray - Did nothing but leave a greasy wet seat even after wipe down.

Mequiars Quik Interior Detailer - Very good for quick detailing of all interior surfaces. No residue, no mess, but also no protection.

I would like some interior product advice and application techniques from 2003-2010 Corvette owners and detailers. My car has less than 7,000 miles and has been in a private museum collection until now. My interior is completely virgin and new and I would like to start a proper and safe cleaning/protection regimine going forward. I live in Las Vegas so I'm looking for protection from the extreme sun and heat. My last Vette had dried leather seats and a dash coated with years of grime and product build up. I want to avoid this and start on the right foot.

Thanks!
Steve

[sparkie]

PM Highendetail.:dblthumb2:

[Gary Sword]

I usually wash the interior leather, plastic and vinyl on my C6 Z06 with Connolly Leather Care Cleaner then wipe it down with just water using a microfiber. Buff dry with microfiber. On the hard/soft plastic and vinyl interior pieces I use 1Z Einszett Cockpit Premium. I then apply a leather conditioner like Pinnacle or Lexol with my hand instead of a microfiber. Buff off with microfiber.

[judyb]

Leather does not require 'conditioning' with anything other than water.

Keep your leather clean by protecting it with a leather protector and then regular cleaning.
Adding 'conditioners' which generally contain oils and waxes will change the appearance of your leather over time as dirt will build up on the surface and cause a sheen.

Using the correct care methods and products will not alter the factory finish.

This type of leather is 'coated' leather. This is essentially a 'painted' leather with a clear coat finish over the top. The leather may or may not be dyed through with aniline dyes prior to the finish coating.

Essentially it is this top coating that needs looking after. Cleaning is vitally important as the top coat will wear away if allowed to become dirty. Dirt on the surface will aslo become ground into the finish by constant abrassion.

'Conditioners', balms, feeds etc (traditionally oil and wax based) cannot penetrate this finish so are not worth applying - they can also leave behind residues on the finish which will only attract more dirt if allowed to remain.

A protector will make the finish easier to clean and also inhibit dye transfer etc on pale coloured leathers.

Leather however finished has to remain breathable and it will allow the movement of moisture back and forth (transpiration) so the use of water based cleaners and protectors will keep the leather correctly hydrated which is essentail to keeping it in good condition.

The routine for correct care should be
Protect from new
Maintain with a regular clean or maintenance product
Deep clean with a foam cleaner once or twice a year

These simple steps will prolong the life of the finish on the leather

[ASPHALT ROCKET]

I use 1Z Cockpit Premium Cleaner and Leather Masters for my seats once in awhile. When I wipe down the interior of my C6 with Cockpit Premium I will go over the seats with it also.

[ScottB]

Interior Doors / Dash -- Einszett Cockpit Premium
Leather --- Einszett Leather Care (formulated for finished leather)
Glass -- Invisible Glass w/ Glass Wizard for HUD area
Carpets --- Folex for cleaning, Stoners Fabotex for protection

[xxxc5]

Interior Doors / Dash -- Einszett Cockpit Premium
Leather --- Einszett Leather Care (formulated for finished leather)
Glass -- Invisible Glass w/ Glass Wizard for HUD area
Carpets --- Folex for cleaning, Stoners Fabotex for protection

I'm looking at the Einszett Cockpit Premium online right now and it states that it's a plastic cleaner. Is this ok for vinyl as well? I believe my dash top and doors are vinyl. Does this afford any protection?

[Emile]

Einszett Cockpit Premium is safe for all interior surfaces except for leather and carpet. I have used Cockpit Premium once on leather just for a quick wipe-down and it worked fine but I wouldn't recommend using it on leather.

It cleans and leaves protection behind that is not greasy and has no fake shine...the protection prevents fading from the sun, and has anti-static properties.

Protectants that repel dust aren't going to stop every single spec of dust from sticking to the interior...it just greatly reduces the amount of dirt/dust that you would normally acquire in between interior details.

[ScottB]

Cockpit Premium has some UV protection and looks new and natural with no coloring. They also offer vinyl care for those looking for a matte appearance.

[ASPHALT ROCKET]

Since the leather in vettes are coated, cockpit premium is fine to use on them.

[Gary Sword]

Leather does not require 'conditioning' with anything other than water.



Sounds like poor advice to me. The new leather coatings do provide some additional protection but does nothing to prevent leather from drying out and cracking. If you want to keep any leather even coated leather it need conditioned.

[judyb]

This is not poor advice. Please think this through logically.
Auto leather is a piece of full or top grain leather which is painted with a flexible pigment and then coated with a clear coat finish. If this clear coat finish is not looked after correctly it will crack over time due to dirt and abrassion, this is not the leather that is cracking. All coatings on leather have to be flexible and allow moisture through to the leather itself (transpiration). Most traditional 'conditioners' are thicker products which often contain oils and waxes which cannot penetrate the top coatings like moisture can. If these products are left on the surface of the leather they actually attract more dirt which only acts to break down the finish even further!!

Leather only needs moisture to keep it soft and supple. The oils that are in the leather are very stable and do not diminish during the cleaning process (how can they as you are never cleaning the leather itself, only the top finish) so introducing oils is not necessary. 'Conditioners' should be replace with waterbased protectors which will actually help to keep the finish clean and thus prolong the life of the leather.

Introducing oils into already cracked leather could actually unbalance the oils already there and cause serious problems.

Hope this helps

[Gary Sword]

This is not poor advice. Please think this through logically.
Auto leather is a piece of full or top grain leather which is painted with a flexible pigment and then coated with a clear coat finish. If this clear coat finish is not looked after correctly it will crack over time due to dirt and abrassion, this is not the leather that is cracking. All coatings on leather have to be flexible and allow moisture through to the leather itself (transpiration). Most traditional 'conditioners' are thicker products which often contain oils and waxes which cannot penetrate the top coatings like moisture can. If these products are left on the surface of the leather they actually attract more dirt which only acts to break down the finish even further!!

Leather only needs moisture to keep it soft and supple. The oils that are in the leather are very stable and do not diminish during the cleaning process (how can they as you are never cleaning the leather itself, only the top finish) so introducing oils is not necessary. 'Conditioners' should be replace with waterbased protectors which will actually help to keep the finish clean and thus prolong the life of the leather.

Introducing oils into already cracked leather could actually unbalance the oils already there and cause serious problems.

Hope this helps

All leather coated or not has natural oils that dry out. Even though they are coated (not clear coated but usually a very thin urethane base coating) it's very thin and still allows conditioners to penetrate. Using a water base conditioner on recomended on coated leather but water alone is not going to do anything to prevent leather from drying out and cracking.

[judyb]

We have checked all our details with tanners, leather technologists and chemists throughout the world. The oils that are reintroduced into leather during the tanning process (mostly synthetic as all natural oils are removed) are good for 30 years and do not leave the leather. What does dry out is the moisture which is why it needs replacing.

Once leather has been retanned and finished it is impossible to get any oils at any significant level back into the leather.
A wipe over with a damp cloth on a weekly basis will be a good start but putting creams, oils, waxes etc on to the finished coating is only going to attract more dirt which in turn breaks down the finish as already explained.

When auto leather cracks it is the pigment/finish that is breaking down (not the leather-until it gets really bad) and this then needs replacing with pigment/finish. Keeping leather clean using water based cleaners and then protecting the finish will prolong its life and thus preserve the leather underneath.
The coatings on leather do not allow waxes, oils etc. to penetrate as quickly as moisture and if they are left on the surface they simply add to the problem.

[Gary Sword]

We have checked all our details with tanners, leather technologists and chemists throughout the world. The oils that are reintroduced into leather during the tanning process (mostly synthetic as all natural oils are removed) are good for 30 years and do not leave the leather. What does dry out is the moisture which is why it needs replacing.

Once leather has been retanned and finished it is impossible to get any oils at any significant level back into the leather.
A wipe over with a damp cloth on a weekly basis will be a good start but putting creams, oils, waxes etc on to the finished coating is only going to attract more dirt which in turn breaks down the finish as already explained.

When auto leather cracks it is the pigment/finish that is breaking down (not the leather-until it gets really bad) and this then needs replacing with pigment/finish. Keeping leather clean using water based cleaners and then protecting the finish will prolong its life and thus preserve the leather underneath.
The coatings on leather do not allow waxes, oils etc. to penetrate as quickly as moisture and if they are left on the surface they simply add to the problem.

Everything you say goes against everything I have ever read about maintaining leather over the last 20 years. You offer nothing to back it up. The leather in my 25 year old vette still looks and feels like new. The leather in my Lamborghini, Viper, Z06, Mercedes and F150 all look and feel better then it did when they were new. I for one won't be taking any of your advice on maintaining my leather.