need help! faded area after polish with 3m perfect-It II polish glaze

[alude]

First, just to let you guys know what I have done.

1) Wash with NXT
2) Clayed with Clay magic
3) Use PC/white pad wtih 3m Perfect-It II polishing Glaze for dark car entire car (black prelude)
I followed directions of the video clip featuring the XMT products.
4) Wolfgang Deep Gloss paint sealant
5) Top with P21S paste wax

OK, now the problem is there is a spot on the rear quarter panel about half foot by half foot that is somewhat faded. Any idea how to fix it? Could this be burn in the paint? I was using the PC 7424. I didn't leave it at one spot at anytime. Constantly moving it. There is also another problem. There are spots on the car that has many many fine scratches. Could this be that I didn't work those area long enough?
Need help guys. thx. i have attached a pic of that faded area

[FloridaNative]

What year is the car?

[Djmigs]

well for one you didnt use a dedicated polish....
someone correct me if im wrong but the 3m product used is a glaze or has very minor abrasive if any...

was the defect there prior to detailing and like the beatiful native asked what year and has this vehicle ever been detailed ....

[BILL]

well for one you didnt use a dedicated polish....
someone correct me if im wrong but the 3m product used is a glaze or has very minor abrasive if any...

was the defect there prior to detailing and like the beatiful native asked what year and has this vehicle ever been detailed ....

RIGHT:confused: what year?? and has it ever been detailed??


If its an older car?? could be clear coat failure:(

[alude]

it's a 2001 black prelude. the paint was still in good condition. just swirl marks that I was trying to get rid off. Scott suggested that I try repolishing that area first. It may that i didn't break the polish down long enough and left a hazing mark. Yesterday I bought one of those work halogen lighting with a stand. It defnitely shows alot more than using the lighting in my garage. Will try to repolish it and see what happens.

[FloridaNative]

it's a 2001 black prelude. the paint was still in good condition. just swirl marks that I was trying to get rid off. Scott suggested that I try repolishing that area first. It may that i didn't break the polish down long enough and left a hazing mark. Yesterday I bought one of those work halogen lighting with a stand. It defnitely shows alot more than using the lighting in my garage. Will try to repolish it and see what happens.

Remember to work your polish for at least 4-5 minutes. If the polish is not properly broken down it will leave that hazing and micromarring. After using your abrasive polish, make sure to step down with a finishing polish and a finishing pad and work that also for at least 4-5 minutes. I hope this helps you. :)

[alude]

thanks guys for all your help. I will repolish that area again. will keep you posted. Correct me if I am wrong but the 3m Perfect-it II polishing glaze is somewhat a final polish according to the description of the product. it stated that i should use a sealant after the polishing glaze step.

[OCDetails]

I know this doesn't help fix the problem at hand, but my suggestion is to constantly check your work as you go. It does you no good to spot an area that still has swirls after you have put your final layers of sealant and wax on the car. By checking your work as you go you won't run into this problem.

The faded area could be oxidation, although that seems unlikely for a car that was just polished. It could be hazing from your polishing pad. What type of pad did you use and at what speed? Sometimes I find it necessary to step down the polish and/ or pad depending on how severe the damage is. For example... Here is a a hood with swirling on it before polishing:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v74/Jngrbrdman/TransAm/Hood-Before.jpg

Here it is after polishing with Pinnacle XMT 2:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v74/Jngrbrdman/TransAm/Hood-xmt2.jpg

Can you see the hazing and cloudy appearance? Plus there are still some swirls. So I step down the product to XMT 1 and go over it again. Check it out after a few minutes with that product:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v74/Jngrbrdman/TransAm/Hood-xmt1.jpg

After a couple more passes with XMT 1 the hazing and swirling were all gone. Now I knew what I had to do on the rest of the car to get the same results. I still checked my work with the 500 watt halogens on every body panel before switching products, but I knew that what I was doing was effective and the final product would be awesome.

Anyway, that is what I would suggest for you. It is possible that you have hazed the surface with whatever pad you were using. I would suggest perhaps some Meguiar's #83 (DACP) that has diminishing abrasives and will polish it's own hazing out fairly well. Here is a hood that was only polished using DACP and a PC:

Before:
http://www.ocdetails.com/assets/images/Swirls1.jpg

After:
http://www.ocdetails.com/assets/images/Swirls2.jpg

No haze and no swirls. DACP is a good product that is easy to locate in town if you can find a Meguiar's distributor. Check your local auto body paint shops. They sometimes will carry both 3M and Meguiar's products. Hopefully this helps a little.

[alude]

Thanks OCDetails! Excellent pictures! That really helped me alot. My mistake was that I didn't have proper lighting and I didn't carefully check my work as I was polishing. What I mean by that is that I did check after every pass but what I thought was good was in fact not good under the halogen work lamp. That's why I went to buy the lamp the very next day and inspected my whole car. There were spots where I didn't not polish well. There were still swirl marks in certain areas. I was using the white LC pad with the 3m Perfect-It II

[ScottB]

Oc's pics show exactly what we discussed via PM offline, and to several members at different times. I really think most feel a couple minutes with a PC and a buffer can create miracles. And truly it kinda does !! But that said, you need to rework areas under close scrunity until truly repaired. The key is patience, reworking the area, and testing the work in progress (lights, washing, wipe downs)

Would you change the oil, then only tighten the oil plug lightly ?? Or do you go back and torque her down ???

[OCDetails]

I think another problem is the pad you were using. The white pad is good for applying waxes and paint cleaners, and even buffing them off, but it isn't the best pad for swirl removal. It is probably the best choice for a paint cleaner just because it can help cut some of the grime off, but for swirl removal you would probably want the orange pad from LC if you wanted to have a little more bite.

[alude]

Thanks OCDetails. Will give the orange a shot. will let you know how it turns out