buffer swirls

[02nissanISR]

got a hood at the junk yard to practice on with my flex rotary got the megs solo system and went to town. one secton i just used the solo system wool to foam. on the next section i wet sanded 1500 grit then solo. when i didnt get all the sanding marks out i figured it was a good time to try my detail king heavy cut compound, on megs foam cut pad then the light cut on same pad then finished with the solo on the polishing polishing pad. all the swirls came out in both sections still heavier scrtches left in the section i didnt wet sand and the section i did wet sand well i was very pleased with myself considering the last time i wet sanded anything was in high school before the jokes fly im 37 so its been a few years. well iwent to show my wife what great work i do, pulled out a flashlight to show that great swirl free reflection and you guessed it swirl city both sections. to those more experienced than i using rotaries what did i do wrong? Feed back please:buffing:

[Mike Phillips]

What kind of abrasives does the Detail King Heavy Cut Compound use?

Swirls generally come from,

Abrasives
Fibers
Dirt

Troubleshoot from these three factors or remove the batteries from the flashlight.


:)

[Mike Phillips]

Seriously, try re-polishing a section with a clean foam polishing pad and the M86 and then inspect.


:)

[02nissanISR]

i have to assume its a none diminishing product nothing ive read states otherwise. the light cut compound uses diminishing abrasives but i had the same problem on the side i just used the solo system on so im wondering is it more the operator/ technique im going to try posting some pics if that makes a difference

[02nissanISR]

[attachmentid=4563&stc=1&d=1250627579[/url]url]http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=4562&stc=1&d=1250627544http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/attachment.php? the second pic is after sanding and solo the first is after compounding then solo

[alowe]

Wow, after shots look poor. Try a few more passes, perhaps a little pressure.

[A4 1.8tqm]

when i didnt get all the sanding marks out i figured it was a good time to try my detail king heavy cut compound, on megs foam cut pad then the light cut on same pad then finished with the solo on the polishing pad.

When you say on the same pad, do you mean on the same level cut pad but a new one? Or that you cleaned the pad between uses or actually on the same pad, cross contaminating polish and compound? You cannot move to a lighter polish and still use the same pad as a compound, there are still large abrasives in the pad as you try to finish down the surface. New pad every time. Also try some 2000 grit paper, easier to remove the sanding marks. :cheers:

What light cut polish did you use after compound? Detail king?

[ASPHALT ROCKET]

For one there is still sand scratches in the paint. Secondly you need to degress in your polishing and pads.

[Lasthope05]

What rpms are you using? You need a combination of pressure and high rpms to remove serious defects and sanding scratches. Also stick to one product on each pad. You are cross contaminating your pad with both the king detail compound and polish. Since M86 uses SMAT try priming the pad first via KBM.

[Mike Phillips]

Anytime you run into problems it's time to start troubleshooting to try to find the root cause. For example next time you buff the good and use more than one product with a rotary buffer, use a side-to-side pattern for one product and then use a front-to-back pattern for the next product, then when you inspect the results you can see which product left the swirls if there are swirls present in the finish.

The goal is the second step product is supposed to remove any trace of swirls left by the first product but if the first product is a real aggressive compound then there's always a chance the second step process isn't aggressive enough to remove them all. Using two different directions for your testing will tell you which product is leaving the swirls.

In a perfect world the second step product is matched to the first step product in that it's is intentionally formulated to effectively remove any swirls instilled by the first step product. This assumes you're using products from the same manufacture.

I'm a big believer in using a system approach just to maintain a Synergistic Chemical Compatibility

That is the chemist best knows how to make all the follow-up products in a system because they formulated the initial use or first step products in the system.

If that makes sense?

As someone else pointed out it's not a good idea to use multiple products on a single pad as it contaminates the pad and makes troubleshooting all but impossible.

Wool fiber pads are almost always going to leave swirls in the paint when examined in bright sunlight or using something like a Cruel Master, (Brinkman Xenon), as each individual fiber can instill it's own cut into the paint. Thus finish polishing should always be done using a foam pad.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/722/Brinkman1.jpg


One more note, and this isn't targeted at the OP, just a general comment about testing products, even on a hood from the salvage yard, when testing products limit your initial test to just sections of the hood until you find a combination that's working for you as it saves time, preserves the paint on the rest of the car, (or the test hood), and gives you a canvas to test other product combinations without the influence of other products.


:)

[02nissanISR]

great tips mike thanks. i totally get the synergistic compatibility thing the 2 products that i used were from the same company (detail king vibra cut 2 and vibra cut lite) i think one thing i did wrong was using the same pad for both. I did clean the pad in between but in the directions on both bottles it says to use the same cut pad i failed to realize this assumed each would be used as a first step not as step 1 step 2 as i did. In my case i should have decreased my pad with the second step as asphaltrocket said. i did go back and polish again using the grey solo pad and it did knock the swirls down somewhat. i think ill try the yellow and see what that does. Also i have the megs fine cut cleaner and the swirl remover 2.0 would either of these be ok for a finishing polish or is there something else you would recommend. And yes i did section the hood for that exact reason so i could test different things.
Detail King is a 2 or 3 day business/detailing training seminar and they have their own product line i got a sample pack of chemicals and polishes so just tryin it out seein what works
thanks again for all the tips